1in7

Softbits For Sevens Touring Tunnel Bag. A brilliant storage accessory in excellent condition. The Touring Tunnel Bag Vinyl (softbitsshop.co.uk) £45 ono + P&P, or collection from Bristol. 2x New Water temperature sender for K Series engine £10 for both + P&P or collection from Bristol. Ill be leaving the Club soon as I've sold my 7, so best to contact me via the following: Contact Richard on O7977 662 767 or rdjherbert@gmail.com

After a Trackday roll bar with single diagonal strut roll bar (or double cross strut) for metric chassis. Thanks 1in7

I've just changed mine 1.6 k and it takes 4.5 and did exactly what sm25t suggests. Put 4 in and slowly added small amounts to top it to max. You never get all of it out and you don't really want to overfill it. 1in7

After a single diagonal strut roll bar or double cross strut roll bar for metric chassis. Thanks 1in7

Ive just ditched my 8 year old wooden 14” ZV3. I was planning on going the Yoko ao21 route but the change in legislation and the price hike to £105 per corner put me off somewhat. Great all round 7 tyre put expensive now in 14”. Theyre cheaper in 13” like a lot of others are as Paul has said, but once the current stock of ao21 is used up they are only track tyres thereafter. 15" are nt seen as a such a good option from a handling perspective. Anyway after umming and aahing and adding/reading posts here and on PHeads it was between Uniroyal Rainexperts and Dunlop Sport Bluresponse. A few people have gone with the uniroyals on the 7 but I went with the dunlops in the end and at the moment very pleased with them. Transformed the ride, grip and stability at higher speeds and they re still not run in, granted the Avons were rock hard come the end. If you search uniroyals here and on PH you ll find the threads. I only do road stuff but there was a guy who did track his car using both and said the dunlops offered more grip. £54 fitted per corner in the end virtually half the price. hope that helps. 1in7

I'm in Bristol and This may not help but I have used harbourside garage in portishead for the last two times solely for mot. They re understanding and I've had no problems And were recommended by another bristol member.

Ditto Ian. I think the recom mended replacement is 5years. Got mine replaced when I bought car. It was still ok after 7 years but it was a concern.

DJ Please keep us posted on how you get on with the Rainsports. 1in7

Jon(s) Thanks for the reply I phoned Tony at Caterham cars as well and he was helpful in offering a coouple more pointers which i checked. Tony phoned back after talking to a colleague who mentioned it could be the battery. if it dips below a certain level there wont be enough for the imobilser. I jumped it from my MX5 battery and it started!!!! result. Even though my car is used through the winter and put ion the Ctek now and again, it looks like its on its way out. I now need an appropriate battery but that great news compared to where i was a couple of hours ago. Kind regards 1in7

Help.. I have a standard 1.6 K 2007 EU3 car with the standard ‘Rover Robust Imobilser’ and black fob, and it won’t deactiveate, and the car won’t start. I noticed on few occasions over the last few weeks that it behaved a little oddly when deactivating/activating so I changed the fob batteries as a precaution and it seemed OK for a short period until this morning when it wont start. The red led comes on, the engine turns but dies as if the immobiliser is still activated. The arming/locking of the immobiliser is normal with the clicks and indicators and the rapid flahing of the led which lthen settles down, but im not convinced the disarming process is clean. It clicks once and the indicator flashes once and then there’s what seems like ‘half a click’ and the indicators don’t flash with this ‘half click. (Can anyone confirm it should deactivate with 2 clicks and 2 flashes?) The led light goes off though but the engines wont start as above. This happens with both fobs and I have removed the fob batteries again, reset them and disconnected the car battery and done a ‘reset’ by clickin the lock button 4-8 times and then the unlock,but no luck. I have also done the deactivate and activate sequence 5 times as well. The car will not disarm. The main battery is good and the fuel pump wirls as normal prior to starting. Any ideas? If not does anyone know a good specialist in the Bristol area?

BTTT

I have an unmodified 2007 1.6K Roadsport with 14000 miles. Ill be doing oil and filter change next month and realise that the spark plugs are due too. Im not sure if my car is an EU2 or EU3 car and therefore not 100% sure about the correct plugs to get. The Cateham manual has no mention of it. Looking at the archives the NGK BCPR7ES plug appears to be the one I need but what should the gap be 0.8 or 0.9mm?? Id also be interested to hear how frequently people change their plugs - Caterham recommend changes at 12000m. Thanks in advance for any advise/replies. 1in7

Thanks guys thats really useful. 1in7

I have waxoyl, wd40 and ACF 50 at my disposal and I want to treat the grot trap. Which is the best one for this do you think? (It looks like there may be waxoyl already used but not 100 percent on this). 1in7

leebert I have bought one from redline the other week and noticed today when I swapped that the new green one is longer just like yours. I've got a 1.6 k but did mention that when ordering. Part of me thinks remove the green plastic, cut down and shorten the metal and mark it somehow in line with the original thus removing the weak point of the plastic and saving the agro of sending back if they don't have the correct one? Any ideas of marking what is a thin bit of metal though?