Fil M

My K with roller barrells takes a bit more turning on the starter this time of year and is always a bit lumpy until she has warmed up a little bit. Again when warm she goes a treat. I have changed the throttle body adjustment a couple of times and it seems its a balance between two options. If shes leaner she will fire up quicker but not romp along as friskily or if shes a bit rich shes lumpy on start up and but romps along nicely. My roller barrells are Caterham ones and I am told the Jenvey ones are better engineered with tick over valves ... i may stand corrected if anyone has done a change from one to the other. I just make sure my battery is fully loaded in winter. Adjusting the barrells is easy once you have got the kit. The Minster site is an inital guide to get you going then its fiddle about to get what suits you and the car. Fil

I have a fuel pump switch. Its very very dinky and easy to reach but very hard to see. Works a treat. If a hoodie gets in and starts her up with his lawnmower key he is wasting his time. Also if the engine turns over and over it will not flood the cat. Insurance was no problem. Just have to remember that you have tripped it or you think you have broken down!!! I had it wired in by an auto electrician who disguised the wires under the bonnett. I had no choice because when Caterham did the R upgrade they swopped the ECU and this rendered the immobiliser out of action permanently. Fil

Keep it .... the only disadvantage is the increased wear on your shorts and T shirts over the winter 😬 Fil

Just a thought Simon ... did the car fill up with chestnuts after you hit the tree? You may be able to defray some costs 😬 ..... Nice to hear from Fleet ... ive been through a barbed wire fence up on Tweezledown Racecourse in the past! Fil

My SV roadsport has 16 inch wheels... currently booted with Yokohama AO21R's. At this time she is purely a road car and her current speed and performance is ideal within road constraints for progressive driving. Ideally one would have a road 7 and a track day 7 and no compromise to worry about. Ultimately a CSR would be my ideal as it would do both jobs to a level that would suit me and the skill level I would aspire to. I decided to leave as is .... for now 😬 Fil

Andrew, If they are Caterham roller barrells have a look at the Minster web site. They have a bit of a tutorial on there. I have set mine up using a Syncrometer in the trumpets and multimeter on the throttle potentiometer. I have put a post about this on blat chat if you search around. i have to say its a bit of an art to get it 'just so' and the Minster site set up is very much a 'ball park' position from where you can play. I would suggest making a careful note of how its set up now before you begin if everything is as it was before you took it off. Another option is to have a go and then book it in to your local performance garage to re set it. Then you can compare and adjust accordingly in the future. Fil

Its a b**ger of a shape to wrap and tie a bow on! Let alone get it down a chimney. If the wing was secured by plasticbolts and the shafts of the bolts are left in the riv nuts I got a small electrical screwdriver ... heated it up to virtually red hot on the tip and push/melted the tip into the bolt shafts. I left it stuck in for a few moments to cool down and then wound the bolts out with the screwdriver head stuck into them. You may have to do this two or three times on some of them but it will work. If this is your sittuation Grubbster then you headache wont arrive. May see you Friday .. depends what time my fathers 80th birthday day trip to the IOW finishes. Fil

Well Grubbster this thread has been like a blokes version of Corrie ... each episode a cliffhanger. Now it may be ended is there going to be a Christmas special! 😬 Fil

I have a 2001 roadsport sV 160 bhp and put on 185/60/R14 Yokohama AO21R's. I have used them all year round and they have had fantastic grip ... run them at 18psi. they are hard to unstick in the dry but have to say if its wet I try to go easy .. Fil

Thanks jakeandlizzy .. certainly the protection given was pretty comprehensive and I agree you could simply leave it on to continue its good work. I would leave it in the garage for the winter but I simply cannot resist a regular fix of turbulance. Fil M

Not me ... it does seem a lot of dosh compared to a deck chair though 😬. That said is looks like a cross between the standard leather seat and a Tillet. Perhaps for the Road sporter who likes a dash on track now and then. Fil M

Hello POBC , Last winter I scrubbed the underside of my roadsport and wiped / sprayed / painted on ACF50 corrosion protection to keep her protected. i have just repeated the process and a close inspection revealed it had done a fantastic job of keeping her smart and free of corrosion over the last year. Its excellent on all the suspension linkages and nuts and bolts inside the wheel arches.Do any of you take particular measures or have tips that you have found useful for winter miles and would like to pass on ? fil M

Mine stretched when i put the roof rack on it 😬 Fil M

Mine are out of date and MOT was no problem. At my age the seat belts would be intact .... I would just break up around them!!!! 😬 Fil M

Hello St Eve, My little K series has been with me now since last November. The ACF50 did the job fine and the car still looks luvly underneath. A few pointers for putting it on etc. 1. The spray cannister can be more of a splodger than a sprayer! This is most useful when blasting it into the major grot trap in the engine bay close to the foot well bulkheads.I recommend buying the large bottle of ACF50 too and getting a garden spray bottle to apply it. Blast the grot trap with a hose first to clear any crud. You will see it all float out! 2. The spray bottle is a safe way of dispensing it onto a cloth or brush and applying by hand. Only a very thin film is required. When you have applied it you can spray the underside of the car with water and see where the water is repelled in case you missed a bit. The spray bottle is safer and quicker to use. If you tip it over you wont lose any ACF50. 3. Remove the back wheels to aid reaching all the awkward bits and take care not to gash your mits on any pointy bits of metal !!! its easy to do!. Most of the front of the car can be done from in the engine bay. Make sure yo wipe it over exposed rivet heads. Especially where skins meet frames. It will 'creep' into any gaps around the heads. 4. I applied muck off over the entire under side of the car first and washed it off to ensure it was clean before applying the ACF50. I divided up the underside visualy and did it in sections. 5. I used my 7 all winter. If the roads were salted I only drove on them if they were bone dry so not first thing in the morning or too late in the afternoon. I have had more fun and better drives in the winter than the summer! No trippers or other car lovers blocking up the best roads! The weather is more stable and provided your dressed to suit and half the cabin covered with a Tonnau its better than now!!!When washing the car I made sure the under side got a gentle hose too in case. Mainly the frontal areas. 6. ACF50 looks great on the front suspension (not brake discs!) and the frontal areas of the car are the key ones to focus on with occasional wipe overs as the winter progresses. 7. Keep the rag you use in a plastic bag for the odd wipe here and there after washes. 8. I put it on in the cold in late Novemeber last year thereabouts and this year I will use muck off (or similar) again and re treat but a lot earlier ... prob late Sept / early Oct. 8a. The transmission tunnell is a mare to get to and i didnt do it. I have seen her up on a lift in June and it was fine ..everything is pretty much tucked away in there. 9. If you want any photos of the under side of my car or more info or want a chat send me a mail St Eve and i will be happy to help. Condition of car was commented on during recent MOT by experienced 7 proprietor Fil M

Mines a K series Pete ... I obtained some NGK plugs with a coated electrode and the gap is pre set. This could be the same for yours too. If the plugs have a platinum coat they are pre set to prevent damage to the coating. Couldnt use my feeler guages and hammer

I have had to change a sensor which is the most common fault. You sound like you wont have time to sort it. If its the sensor or the guage I would simply do without it. I would run her up and get her hot and just make sure the fan kicks in ok. If it does just go and have a great time. If the fan kicks in you know when its at 92 deg at least Thats what I would do and sort it back home afterwards. There is a way of testing the guage. Pull the wire from the sender unit on the water rail and touch it to earth on a chassis rail (metal to metal) If the guage shoots up indicating 'hot' its the sender. There must be a blat chatter out there who is hot on electrics who can talk you through all the checks over the phone. Go luck .. Fil

Yes it was ... and re checking the minster site it does say it is a basic set up and only talks of tick ouver RPM. From that I would infer a bit of leeway is there for individual cars behaviour. When i set mine up in accordance with Oilies recommendations I did find the car went extremely well!!!! She did pop and bang lots though and drank thristy too. Come the day she goes on a rolling road for a re map I will look at the adjustments again. At the mo she is fine. I would play around a bit and see how she performs on slightly more or less air. Maybe after your upgrade something changed to affect the original set up. It doesnt take much. Mine ticks over at 1000-1100 rpm when warm. Fil

Is she due a service Michael? If she is it could be new plugs, air filter clean etc etc to 'tidy her back up' will do the trick. Might help others to describe your induction set up too in case this figures in the equasion. Fil

Hello Petrol head, I have recently had a go at rebalancing my throttle bodies and setting the tps. I have looked at your vid and you have everything right. I changed mine to the recommended Minster settings after finding they were set with a lower volume of air intake. I put her in for an MOT and to have the RB's checked an re balanced so I could compare figures. She came back adjusted with slightly lower volumes than when I first checked them. So two independant specialists had set her to lower volumes than the Minster recommendations. Be interested in anyones views on that ( Barrells front to rear ...3.75,3.75,4.2,4.5 and TPS .420) She still runs fine but with less pops and bangs and a little leaner. When i put her on the Minster settings she popped and banged plenty, went like the wind and drank like a horse 😬 I will be interested in how she idles in the colder weather when winter sets in next week!!! Fil

No thats for all four tucked under the bonnet. Apparently they use ceramic on the pipes of performance cars including F1 to control heat radiation. If I get my exhaust upgraded I would definitely consider it. If it saves the heat cooking an alternator and starter just once its paid for itself! If they can be done the same colour as your car you could have a very tasty under bonnett layout along with some silicon pipework! Bonus! Come that day I will have to research it. Fil

Due to going to Silverstone for the next few days I didnt have time to fix my Alternator myself so took it to Tom New who did a great job and also dealt with some dodgy wiring at the same time...10/10 again. We had an interesting chat about the click and problems emanating from heat radiating from the exhaust under the bonnet. He is very seven experienced! In his opinion the standard Caterham exhaust is not close enough to the starter/Alternator to cook them. Primarily problems occur when an upgraded exhaust is fitted which with the larger pipes run closer to the elecricals. You can heat shield them in various ways but suggested that a long term and fully effective method is to have them ceramic plated! Its about £350 ... in a colour of your choosing. Apparently its that effective you can virtually hold a primary afte the engine is switched off! there is a firm in Andove that does the work. thought I would add that to the mix in case someone felt the urge Fil

I have replaced the charged up battery and she starts up but the red ignition light burns brightly. Before fire up the battery tested 12.6v so fully charged. On firing up the voltage went down! ... on with the headlight and down it went again to 12.24...an under charge! Battery charged up ok, starter worked ok ...I have an alternator ralated problem I think so im off to delve into the archives .... mask and snorkel on ... im going fishing for an answer! Fil

Hello Griff, I joined the K click club today. I did get a bit of warning ....the red ignition light was full on at a set of traffic lights (4 miles out only). Drove it to a nearby car park. Switched off and ...click! Off with the bonnet . Belt ok but connection of the wire to the alternator at the plug was quite wobbly and felt I may have a dodgy connection there. Bump started her and only just got her home .. as I went the red ignition light flickered on and off and the car began to misfire nearer home accompanied with instruments failing as the battery died off. As it stands I have spliced in a new length of wire at the alternator by the plug (it cannot be completely disembled) and the battery is on charge as I type. If it is still faulty I shall follow the meter readings given on hear to check it. You are not alone!!!! Fil

Thankyou once again . I will check the e mail. If they worked for you that sounds good enough for me too. Thankyou all ..... sounds like the clonky clanky noise is going to be a memory. Another little job chalked up all being well. Cheers Fil M