Fil M

TVI ..!.. I think its the spec level of the camera and timing thats sticking it. The D6 has just come out and it may be that some are waiting to see if the D7 comes down as a result. As a top end crop sensor camera with a top reputation people will want their ultimate camera to be a virgin and be prepared to pay more for the privelege.I am in that mould. Your offer is very attractive but as its a 'dream' camera people may want it new.I would adv somewhere else as well as on this forum and maybe add a bit more detail..age,shots fired,firmware installed etc. I am sure there will be a buyer out there somewhere. Wedding photographers team the higher end full frame canons with crop ones Good luck with it. Back to the top for you

One thing worth doing to have a fun and worry free go at it is ..... 1. Bonnet and nose cone off.. 2.with the multi meter/tester take the resistance reading of the TPS as it is for reference. 3.With the car warmed up and ticking over take off the air filter and using the flow meter thingy measure the air drawn through each intake orifice. Do this a couple of times to ensure you have a snug seal and the best readings. 4. make a note of all these measures so that you can put it all back as it was if you dont like your new settings. I have set mine myself after they had been adjusted by two different garages. Each set them differently to the Caterham settings and differently to each other! You will have the same fun those crossflow chaps have when balancing their Webber carbs. Except your adjustments will be more stable. You will have a Fred Dibnah grin after you have done it.

http://www.blatchat.com/T.asp?id=56472 Here is the blat chat page with the relevant info that I used. Mine are 'sorted'. I used the vacuum thingy youve got coming and a multimeter thingy on the throttle sensor. Its easy but the throttle pot is a bit fiddly ... best with nose cone off. Shout me if you need more info or a chat about it. Its fun to do and not difficult. I can always be on hand near a phone if u want a bit of back up when you do it. I forgot to see where you are from ... if you were close enough I would come and give you a hand Fil

http://www.blatchat.com/T.asp?id=56472 The above blat chat link it to the correct settings for the throttle bodies. I had similar issues on my 1800k (R conversion with MBE ECU with r mapping) After much research and fiddling she is now set dead right on the settings listed. With vacuum guage and multimeter to hand its quite easy to DIY. Try this first before if you get the chance. If not make a note of the throttle body settings and take them along with you in case you need them as reference. Good luck Fil

as per johns post above ... my temp sender is recently higher and jumps when ignition on at cold .... my sender (not very old) is beginning to play up already ...luckily I have enough for this persistnet problem in the garage bench drawer!

My SV's needle gets higher in the hot weather and the fan kicks in a bit more often. Assuming the radiator is the same as an S3 (i am sure it is) then there must exist a wider gap around the rad formed by the wider nose cone thus reducing the air flow through the rad .... comp;ared to an S3. There may lie the issue if there is one. Otherwise the cavernous bonnet 😬 gives more air space so should be cooler unless this issue reduces the effect. If you see what I mean

SBFS tonnau, half hood, shower cap ..... top kit..... makes the car an all year round motor. All three have their uses alone or in combinations. They are near chichester. google them and the orange bomb is pretty much on the spot.

I have a SBFS's shower cap for my SV and its excellent. I have to say I did modify it a bit by adding poppers to attach it to the windscreen which made redundant the need for any other support to prevent excessive pooling . A great bit of kit I could not have done without this year. The seven has stood out in some very strong winds and driving rain and its kept the car dry as a bone. I note your comment .. are you near to their workshop? Being able to collect at the door makes a difference. I can send you photos if you mail me.

Many thanks all for your responses. The article you linked to Roger was particularly informative. With my mileage rate at the present time my yearly oil changes could be viewed as being extremely frequent in miles and more than enough protection without added ingredients. I shall leave the additives back in the 1970's. Cheers

Thanks Roger.... I have fond memories of dosing up the carbs and pots on a xflow many years back and am aware engines have improved as has fuel quality etc. I was perusing the shelves of a local motor factor and saw these items on display and wondered if they were what they are cracked up to be.

Hello those with greasy mits ... I am about to do my yearly service on the 7 ( I know its a constant tinker all year round really but its oil too at this time of year ). Years back it was the done thing to squirt Redex in the pots when changing plugs and using it as a petrol treatment. In this day and age do these type of treatments have a place in the garage? My little monster has a K series engine. I would be interested to see if they are beneficial as a preventive etc. Cheers

Hello John, To keep those little barrells balanced and growling along nicely all you need is a multimeter and air flow meter and the instructions from Caterham as per this thread on BC here .... http://www.blatchat.com/T.asp?id=56472. You can find some photos of the proceedure on the Minster web site but go by the CC figures. If you get thsoe items soon you could take the measurements of air draw and TPS as set by CC and use them as a reference for all future checks you do. Its easy to do and fun to be able to keep it all in trim with your servicing (if you do your own of course). My 1800K had the full R upgrade before I bought her and it is true that 24 ish mpg is typical on barrells. The roar and tug is worth the extra pennies though. Have fun

Cheers Elie, Thanks for all the advice

Thanks Elie .... will the original blue loctite on the threads still serve the purpose? or do I need to refreswh it? Fil

Thanks Everyone, I have taken them apart and the bolts didnt need a lot of grunt to get them moving. They had a coat of blue locktite on them and I have synched them up firmly for now with the original blue compound still on the threads. I shall get a short torque wrench to check them because mine is a bit big for the space available. I shall put some fresh blue loctite on them too. Brakes are now squeek free. Cheers Fil

Hello All, I have got the tub of copper ease and brake cleaner and am going to undo the two bolts holding the rear Sierra style brake caliper. Once opened I am going to give it a clean and lube and reassemble to stop it 'singing'. If the linings are in good condition I will simply reassamble without need of rewinding etc. Can anyone tell me to what torque I need to synch up the two retaining (slider) bolts when I have finished please. MOT is due so I am giving her the once over with the tooth comb Cheers Fil

Spot on

Track and Road ( the two Steves) can do MBEs I believe

Dell, lots of them out there, easy to get parts, easy to get fixed,cheap to run. Thats why lots of businesses use them.

Thanks for explaining that Graham. It makes sense.

Perhaps add, oil sender, water temp sender, brake light switch to the list. I think its so that we have plenty to do when its raining hard and gives the owners who like to get a bit mucky some 'fixin fun'.

hello Grenpayne, My 7(SV) is an 1800k with the CC Supersport R conversion. The very best I ever got from her to date was 32mpg on a long steady drive. Normally with a mixture of spirited and steady use I will get between 24 and 21 mpg. I set my barrells myself. From a full SV tank to three quarters on the guage i am getting about 151 miles. I know this doesnt answer your issues but posted as a comparision for when yours is sorted. Mine has not had the Two Steves rolling road mapping done or Verniers by Oilyhands as yet. The MBE is still on the CC set up. Good Luck Fil

my 1800 K series collects water and water vapour in this bottle along with a bit of oily brown splodginess. Its normal. Its a breather tank and its job is to catch what it catches... water and oil vapour and stop it hitting the tarmac or crudding up the outside of the engine. Once in a while I empty it ... it lifts off its retaining 'rails'. Just pull the pipe off and prise off the cap. Thats as complicated as it gets Fil

Is it something worth carrying in the 'boot' ... is it a big tin?

Thanks 66 .... one for the favourites short cut 'reference list' Fil