Fil M

Thankyou for the info ... that gives me some options now. Can any of you tell me what size they are so I can do some comparisons pleeze.The choice is quite large by the looks of it with a large array of size options. cheers again Fil

Hello All, Got the little red monster through its MOT *biggrin*but the source of a donk, bonk clonk in my right ear on some road bumpy lumps is down to a worn rod end on the rear offside Watts. They are £60 on CCs site ..its only little! Q1. Is there a cheaper but reliable source ( I normally buy CC but it sounds a bit steep for my loyal stance especially if its a wear prone part !) Q2. Do I ask for a left or right hand thread for the offside rear one? Q3. Should I replace in pairs or is the offside more prone cos my big botty is loading it up nearby? 😳 Q4. I have been advised its easier to remove the whole horizontal Watts link section and change it on the bench counting the turns to get it off. I shall do this but are there any other little pit falls or tips to avoid cage rage before I get my mits grubby seveners? Thanks in advance Fil M 2001 k series SV Roadsport Edited by - Fil M on 13 Jun 2011 21:30:11

Thanks Oliver and Steve I am currently doing a bit of research to see whats involved .... I cant believe all the new toys that are out there!! Cheers Fil

That sounds like a good possibility Steve ... thanks .. I will do a bit of research Its been fun having a go but with little experience it is hit and miss. cheers fil

I re balanced my throttle bodies and am sure I made it richer!!! I have re set them back where they were. Rather than rely on exhaust colour and the tunes she plays can you buy at reasonable cost a CO2 sniffer to actually see the results of your efforts? ..that would give me a more accurate measure to go by... I have edited this because I rambled on last time and asked some dodgy questions . A CO2 sniffer would enable me to really see what I am doing with the synchrometer and multi tester. Is there such a thing and has anyone used one if there is? Fil M Edited by - Fil M on 1 Jun 2011 10:37:40

I installed one a couple of months ago and put a guide of how to do it on blat mail in case someone else should have the same lack of instructions as i did. Do a search and you will find it. If you cant find it balt mail me and I will give you the low down. It may be a bit costlier but it looks good, suits the car and also does the job intended. good luck with it Mort. Fil M

Have a look at ACF 50 spray Carsten. It is a fluid that tracks into and holds corrosion where its at. If you can get the nnozzle near the inner source of corrosion you will find it will stop it progressing. In this warm weather it will penetrate well. I used it to protect the entire underside of my car including a few ally bubble spots and its unchanged after the winter. You can get it on E bay and find out more about it on google. Its useful for a number of things and when a rag dampened with it is rubbed on the suspension arms they come up a treat and repel the crud too! Motorcyclists rave about it ... it costs a few quid but goes a very long way. Fil

Mine are minotaurs and they are weighted on the inner rim about and inch in too with no problems. The biggest problem was getting the sticky off the places where the original ones were stuck on the outer rim. Tip..... dab with petrol and rub with finger nail and kitchen towel. Fil M

If its any help my speedo is all over the place for first quarter mile but the odometer trips around steadily so they seem seperate. Perhaps we could all do a tally from Wickham on Friday to see how all the cars compare ... that might give a good idea Martin. Fil

Hello lavena, I have investigated this re my K series and its an expensive route. A local performance car garage rekons that you need to chop the leads to install a new one with a bit of rewiring on the loom. Whilst the MBE is encrypted and or PIN protected there are ways around it I am told. I am told a new Emerald will do the same as an MBE more or less but with more ready access. My enquiries were prompted by rich running and poor emissions. My minor problem could simply be a re balance of my TB's. I am awaiting the tools to do it to 'plopp' through the letter box as I type. This may save me a lot of dosh re mapping etc. Don't rush to make big changes. You will get loads of advice on this I am sure. For me the re map is a last resort. Might be worth outlining the spec of your car in case other options are out there that someone has experienced. If you have roller barrell TB's they can be tricky at the slower speeds .. they are either 'on or off' If you see what I mean. Good luck Fil

Thanks Mankee The ones I purchased ready for my service were rather expensive!!! Now I know there is an acceptable alternative. How often do you repalce them? Every year? Whats the service life of a plug? In my tin top they are in for a year and 12000miles worth. fil

Thankyou again Oilyhands ...... I gave it a good visual inspection and it appears the body is already rotated to some degree so it will be interesting to see what it reads. I am going to check to see if there is a throttle stop in evidence too during the proceedure and if not to make one up. A local performance car specialist is going to check the set up for me next month so I plan to do it myself first and then get it checked by him to see if I made a reasonable job of it. If it works out I will be very pleased with myself. Thankyou for helping me. Fil

I have used Hammerite satin and it is a great match ... also on the track rods you can enclose them in a length of black corrugated pond pump pipe I was given a length by a fellow sevener Fil M

I am going to leap in and re balance my throttle bodies after getting the info I need but need to clarify one last bit.... The Minster site states that you can re align the TPS by undoing the screws and turning the body of the TPS until the meter reads .45 Ohms at idle. It states its a basic setting. After doing the balance proceedure I am assuming this is done with the ignition off. Is this the recommended reading to aim for on CC fitted TB's on my 1800 k series? Will this give me a reliable and ideal set up as I do not have the computer option to use at this time? I can get this done by a proper mech locally but would like to be able to do it myself ..its the nearest I can get to playing with a set of Webbers! Benefit of your wisdom and experience please cos I dont want to mess it all up

Are these suitable for a 1.8 K with TB's too?

Thankyou Oily, I have found the answer and yes ... it is more complicated involving lap top and access to the MBE. I must search blat chat more thoroughly! Thanks for your time *thumbup* Fil Edited by - Fil M on 19 May 2011 08:11:16

Now that is something I can do! and it does sound familiar. Thankyou Stationary. Now I am an internet purchase away from sorting the throttle bodies and aligning the TPS. Cheers Fil

Hello all, Re my post a couple of places below I have found out the info I need to set / check my TB balance. The only bit of advice given I am struggling to get info on is how to align the throttle position sensor ( and where it is on the 7 so as not to align the wrong thing!) If its a simple physical adjustment I can do it .. if it involves laptops I can't at this time in my educa7ion. I am trying to not bother Oily hands as i am sure he is a busy man earning his crust. Anyone able to give me an idiots step by step? thanks Fil

Thankyou to all of you for your suggestions. The car was nice and hot on the ramp GP Box. The exhaust has a cat. The garage chap got me to try it at different revs..he event dismantled the probe and blew it through with air ... in fact he did just about everything he could to test it fairly even sayinng that if it was a bit out it wouldnt be a problem.. it was a bit too much over the .25! Cost me a voluntary £5 to the tea fund. Thanks Oily for your tech info. I will research this and see if I cant do this myself. I just need to find out the what equipment and the how to do it bit. I am happy to get my mits mucky. Thanks for your suggestion Grubbster I will take it there and see how things turn out. If I cannot do Oily hands suggestion I will ask that establishment to do those checks and adjustments as part of the visit then MOT it. Thanks Ivaan .. she doesnt have Verniers yet and my intention is to do a visit to Oilys establishment in the coming months for these. That will give me some options for later on. The ECU adjustments EFA are bit beyond me ... can I access my MBE unit somehow? Its something I would be happy to learn about. The two Steves are on my to do list Mark after the Verniers. Thanks to all of you. If the above plan does'nt pan out I will have a blat to Caterham as they fitted the upgrade. Thanks for giving me some options. Let you know how i get on in a few weeks. Fil

Hello All, I have done a couple of posts re my car running / not running rich. Today I took it to my local garage who are a fine crew of mechanics and they were kind enough to let me put the car in the MOT bay and run her up to see what emissions she was putting out. She is K series 1800 r upgrade with roller barrells with an R500 MBE ECU. She was putting out 6.4 ish CO2 .. way over the level deemed a pass. She has the original Caterham exhaust with the cat. So she is a bit rich but the chap at the garage said she would give great performance!! The R conversion was done by Caterham. The roller barrells were balanced a year ago for the last MOT at a garage too far away to use. The MOT is due in June. I see my options as ... 1. Take her back to Caterhams for the MOT including any adjustments. 2. £££ re map first ..but will the re map get her to MOT standard and leave me with a car that leaves me with a grin...this was an 'upgrade' I had slated for a few months time. Yet again a call on your experience please sevener's. What would be the best next step re the MOT? Have you experiecned this? Its my first 7 MOT

Havent had the click.... yet!!! Temperature sender is an easy five minute job .... dont be surprised if no water comes out of the hole on removal ... its cos the air can't get in! Mine ticks too but on tick over! I have a 5 speed box so wheel spin has not occurred yet! Mine is an 1800k with roller barrells ..R upgrade .. SV MPG is 22miles with lots of right foot using lots of happy juice, 28.6 on a long run with open roads and not much right foot. This is about right for a K 1800 with RB's She pops and *arts on overrun ... I like it so much I wont change the Caterham exhaust for a fancy one for fear of losing the tunes she plays! this is common to a K .. its purring! For me its lap belt first, then right shoulder, close door up, left shoulder last. Obtain the T piece to help bleed coolant air pockets .. its cheap on the net ... E bay and search for Bleed T or similar. I havent fitted mine yet but will do when shes due a coolant change. I still cant get over the growling hungry noise she makes when I let the reins go! Nor will you I am sure. Lots about the K on the net and these forums.

Cosmiiiiiiiiic

I have been toying with a modified zimmer combined with unwanted Helium balloons from party left overs for easing out of the saddle St Eve. Any one for a bulk buy? I could call the device an 'easy out' AVES. Thanks for the posts chaps. FIL

Hello All, I am posting this for information so others can find it in their hour of need. There are several threads regarding these bolts losing their heads and what to replace them with but I could not find a method of how to get the body of the nylon bolt back out of the riv nut from under the wing. Here is how... Fire up the blow torch get hold of a small very narrow electrical screwdriver..preferably with a non metalic handle Heat the tip up until very hot push the hot tip firmly into the end of the sheared bolt and allow it to melt in *rolleyes*hold the screwdriver for a few seconds until it sets now work the bolt out by unscrewing it You may have to do it a couple of times. The screw driver may break loose but simply repeat the proceedure ... persevere and ease them out. If you have had a tooth out before you will know the technique..a bit of push here,a bit of tug, a wiggle and a turn..patience. Spray a bit of WD40 first if you like. At worst you will melt the bolt through and probably be able to drive it with the new one and force it through if you cant get it out with this method. After clumsily getting out of my 7 I hit the drivers rear wing hard with my foot and heard a 'crack'. It turned out I sheared a nylon bolt head off. I realised that two others were also missing leaving the wing vulnerable. I have managed to replace them. If in thirty years someone has the same trouble the answer is now 'logged'.

Thanks again to you all. I havent checked the plugs but I am due to give her a service in the next month. In the winter when she was colder for longer the exhaust got a bit sooty now and again but now its warmer and the trips longer its a nice proper brown. I expect the plugs to be similar. Cheers All....I hope to have a spin on the track next 'season' so will tow her there with a tanker! Fil