alan c

Hi ok I will order a set then, what do you need from me at this stage? Alan

Does being billet further reduce the vibration seen in the mirror? i have the original "Eccles" version and I still get a reasonable amount of vibration in the mirror, more in drivers side than passenger for reasons I cannot explain and if these improve it i will upgrade.

Agree I only use it on the headlight. I do have a set of crows feet that I have used on other jobs but the ring spanner is easier on the headlamp. Also have set of flare spanner's for use on brake lines and similar scenarios. Should also say that I do have pretty good access to tools so cutting into a perfectly good ring spanner was not a great risk for me

My solution was to buy a cheap deep offset ring spanner and cut a slot in it with a dremmel. I tried the crows feet type given I already had those but the cheap ring spanner with a slot cut in it is much easier to use. I just leave it in the boot so it is available should I need to adjust it when away from home.

I have just changed my doors and armrests to the newer carbon vinyl finish as the doors were past their best and I hope the finish will be easier to clean so I have a set of armrests that are surplus if you are still looking.

Cannot remember the size but I bought an offset ring spanner and cut a slot in it to adjust mine.

Hi I will go for a set of these as well, do you need anything from me to confirm? Alan

Hi I have a similar set up and post a rebuild by Premier Power and mapping by Northampton Motorsport it runs with similar temps to the ones you are now getting so I would say they are ok. While the engine was out I insulated the bulkhead and tunnel and footwell temps are ok now. Alan

I use the SPA GT mirrors mounted on the doors and find them fine, I did try the mirror mounts someone made and they made little or no difference. These do only cover one of the holes, not an issue for me as I have doors that never had standard mirrors on them. If you do have one hole visible fill it with a black plastic number plate bolt.

Not in the area you want but mine was fixed by arch in Peterborough

I have an old terratrip system with two headsets if that is of any interest. alan

Toyo for me as well, need a new set plan to go same again but I see they have changed a little since the current ser

I would also buy a pair at that price

I sent mine back to AP, I think you have to go via a dealer. I used raceparts in Wallingford.

My VX also gets to 100c on hot days, did one long run to Le Mans when it as was at that level for a long time. it was worse when I first acquired it about 13 years ago but changing to a new radtec aluminium radiator helped and I have the larger dia fan that they do. I think I may also have installed a thermostat that opens at a lower temp but I am not certain about that as it was 10+ years ago i have mechanical gauges and water temp is nearly always higher than water temp, I am tempted to fit a laminova to balance the temps but I don't think it's essential. if you don't have one it worth getting a heat shield between the exhaust and the alternator - on long run to Le Mans the engine was fine but I discovered the alternator was cooked when I got home. More recently and for other reasons I had the engine rebuilt and it generally runs cooler now but will still be close to 100 on hot days - we have done some long runs in very high temps across France and Spain. Worth checking everything is working correctly but not sure you should be too worried, that said I would recommend getting good mechanical gauges for water temp and oil temp/pressure

If you want to convert to leather try talking to Oxted Trimming who make the seats as I think they will recover in leather and then they will be like new.

I am fairly certain that I used a 27ohm resistor when I installed mine, I did a couple purchasing the light and resistor from Maplins but they are no longer around.

I do not recall seeing anything about this and I have had my VX for 10+ years There were three different “Swindon” options and I think only about 50 sold in total so number of cars with same Cam as you have is very limited. So it is a long shot to find what you want. Northampton Motorsport mapped mine at similar stage to you and again after rebuild so they do “know” the engine

I cannot provide a map or any advice on the correct advance to use but I went exactly the same route with a VX with the same Swindon set up a few years ago. I purchased a second hand ECU that already had a map on it that was good enough to get me to Northampton Motorsport. The map felt good but after a couple of hours with Troy it was much better. All of this is a long winded way of saying I don’t think you can avoid a mapping session If you do this be prepared the 218bhp claimed by CC was optimistic - mine does now achieve 218 but it is now on throttle bodies and the engine has been rebuilt with lighter flywheel, modified head and a few other improvements.

Also try Meteor

I went through a very similar debate with my VX, I started by changing to a 3D ignitions system which was nice but I have ended up with a full FI system, Jenvey throttle bodies and an MBE ECU. It still has a similar intake noise but the pops and bangs on overrun have largely gone but I am sure they could be programmed If was making the change now I would look hard at getting the Webber’s converged so they are in effect the throttle bodies. I have no direct experience but I am told they are just as good and the “classic” look of th carbs is retained.

Not sure about thread size take one out and measure. However make sure replacement is not too long, if it is it will crack the screen

I had the same issue with my car several years ago, car was with James Whiting to sort out the carbs and one of the problems was a broken engine mounting bolt. It had sheared just inside the block, engine the moved slightly letting air into the inlet system. i cannot recall the precise explanation but it was related to vibration even though the bolt appeared to have been installed correctly. luckily for me James was able to use a small punch a tap it round and out, no idea how he did it but he did say if that failed it was probably an engine out job. Above may not help much but your fault is not unique. Alan

Brian i am in Amersham and I have a rivnut setting tool, if you send me a message I can reply with more details. Alan

Put the cables in Black heat shrink tubing then fix that in place with a few strategically placed cable ties.