alan c
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Everything posted by alan c
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All of the above sounds intersting. I have 4 into 1 exhaust, 45's and a 244 cam and I didn't think I was getting anywhere near 150bhp but I need to go and get it tested to see exactly. It sounds a bit rough until about 3000 rpm and then is fairly smooth up to 6000 where I have my red line set. Anyone got any ideas on the next upgrade from this or is it an expensive all steel job with more revs?
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I know a few people that have already fitted the maplins unit and I have followed them and even on a bright sunny day you can see the light. The part nos at Maplins are as follows:- 52mm light cluster PD01 (PD zero one) Resistor W22R This seems to fit with the calculations above and I can vouch that it works. I am part way through fitting mine. I used a piece of pre drilled steel and bent it around the roll bar to create a bracket, cost 75p from my local car parts shop. Quick spray of black paint and some neoprene packing and its fine.
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Ian will now be out for a while, I had a look but I am more familier with X Flow technology. Guage was reading very hot but there was very little temperature in the rad, I could rest my had on the top easily. I felt both hoses and if my memory was correct bottom was warm and top cold, it may have been the other way around but they were definately not the same. Coolant appeared to have come from expansion tank but there was also a lot of residue around what I assume was the switch for the fan on the top of the rad. Apart form getting hot quickly car appeared to run Ok, we did not let it run for very long once it was above normal temp.
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Alex YHM
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Racetech also do a special fitting so you can fit their mirrors on the centre or lower bolt that holds the screen. They are then completely independant of the doors. Only issue then is you cannot open the doors all the way as you can with door mounted mirrors but they do not shake about at all. I bought fittings and a pair of mirrors for about £50 if my memory is correct. I was buying other bits and pieces as well so I may be a bit out on that. Fitting available in aluminium or black finish.
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I have also used quickstart in Slough within the last two weeks and found them great. Went in he immediately identified the model and swopped the pulley etc, done deal reconditioned alternator for sub £30 for Xflow.
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Andy Thanks the pulley is certainly steel but I didn't actually look at the diameter and I have no idea what is normal. Idle is a bit below 1000 so I think I may need to increase that a little, the red light certainly goes out instantly when you increase the revs so perhaps I don't need to worry. I will try increasing the idle speed and see what happens, I suspect it may be next weekend before I get a chance to do that. Alan
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Reconditioned alternator now fitted and that has solved the problem of the ignition light comig on after the car has been off for a while. However it still comes on when the engine is at idle but I do not need to increase the revs very much for it to go out. What should a 1700 XFlow running 45's and a suitable cam idle at? If it is not simply down to the engine running to slow at idle what else could it be?
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Norman thanks very much for the offer and apologies for being slow to reply but I was out all day yesterday. I am taking the alternator out later and will find an auto elctrician tomorrow. Am I being dense cannot find the option to respond via blat mail.
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Thanks is there a way to test an alternator or should I just take it out and take it to the shop to be checked? Any ideas on what the part no is so I can try and track one down before I take the old one out?
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Two issues which may or may not be related. 1 After I switch off the car and leave it for a while the red (ignition?) light comes on after say 15 mins. It only goes off when I turn off the battery master switch. It only happens after a delay and is not on as soon as you switch off. I cannot see any immediate cause any ideas what I should look at anyone? 2 Same red light also comes on sometimes at idle am I correct in thinking this means the charging circuit or alternator is not working correctly?
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Hi Mine is also mounted on the front of the drivers footwell. Glad to hear its easy to change as I intend over christmas to do my first 'in house' oil change. As you will gather I have inherited this installation and it is old (87) I am therefore thinking of changing all the hoses, short of taking them off is there an 'easy way' to tell what dia the various pipes are and the size/thread on the fittings at each end?
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I have just sent you an email