Ian Macquarie

This is on a windows PC. This line ends with enter and this line is double spaced. (new paragraph?) This line ends with Shift+enter so this line is single spaced - Shift+enter again results in single space again whilst Enter Reverts back to a new paragraph and thus space between this line and the previous one. I think shift+enter has the same effect in many windows programs. Ian

#1 A small, additional point that I have commented on elsewhere; the diagram shows that the cam sensor return should be connected to 0V at pin #23 (which is how they are wired, ex factory) and not to pin #31 as has been mentioned previously on Blatchat." As far as I can see on that diagram MBE 9A4, CAM Inductive signal goes to pin 30 and the 0V goes to pin 5 0V. I can't see a pin 23 or pin 31 on there at all. Is there another diagram I'm not seeing?

How does the spark happen without the -ve side of the HT circuit being connected? I was hoping someone else would answer! I think the earth side of the circuit is the block and the path to earth is across the spark plug gap. The windings and iron core in the coil make it an impedance circuit so you can't think about it in the same way as a steady resistive DC circuit. However I never could really get my head around the details of mathematics of what happens. If we are lucky someone who really understands this in detail may chip in with a better more authoritive explanation. Just a thought - there is a good earth between the battery negative and the block?

The usual way a coil is wired is constant 12v supply (possibly through a ballast resistor) then it is earthed to allow a current to flow in the primary windings. When the earth is disconnected (points open) a high voltage is generated in the secondary winding which gives the spark from king lead to earth.

I expect you're right but it was the arrowed area on the filler neck that I was looking at. Roger has far wider experience than me - I'd listen to him. At the moment the unsealed system seems to be working on my 1990 crossflow.

The cap needs to seal in 3 places. The low pressure fluid return that you highlight in your first picture #23, the high pressure relief against the lower part of the filler neck and the top sealing ring against the top of the filler neck. From the last photo, it looks as though part of the sealing ring at the top of the filler neck is missing / damaged. If the filler is damaged then you may be sucking air in there rather than sucking water from the overflow container. It could of course just be a trick of the light and the filler neck may be perfect! Ian

A bit of a thread resurrection here. I'm just about to embark on the Rainexpert 3 route (185 70 13) and wondered what pressures people have settled on now that they've had more experience. Ian

I had one of those on my 1990 Supersprint. (now superseded with fuel injection.) I believe that there is a 6 pin connector on the other end of the cable. If the distributor has been replaced with another type (without the pick up that matches the amplifier) then I would expect you could just unplug the connector and remove the amplifier. Try disconnecting it and see what happens. all the best Ian

Did your Syphon tube reach the bottom of the tank? On my car the tank baffles prevent that. (Different car though).

I agree with SMT25 #2. Having said that it is nice to have the car under cover. I do not have any specific recommendations in your area of interest, however we do like staying in Logis Hotels www.logishotels.com If you search in the area of interest you can then filter the results based on many criteria including several parking options. Ian

It is also possible to purchase just the electrical switch section. Depending on what their problem is, that may be a cheaper solution.

Fig 10.4.4 in the 1990 assembly guide shows the position of the cuts in the plate - now I've checked, removal of the 1/4" bolt may not be necessary.

If you are fortunate and the original assembler followed the guide, the plate between engine and gearbox will have been cut so that if the starter motor, two bolts at the bottom of the bell housing and one 1/4" ? on R/h side (looking forward) are removed then the bottom half of the plate can be removed thus giving access to the two most rearward bolts on the sump.

I may have missed it further up the thread - but have you checked the MFRU? Isn't it this, in the engine bay, that contains the Fuel pump relay and main ECU supply relay? I believe that Revilla has put wiring diagrams and explanations on Blat Chat in the past.

Here are a few shots of my custom built tank made to go in the same position in a right hand drive X/flow powered De-dion car. .