Ian Macquarie

This is on a windows PC. This line ends with enter and this line is double spaced. (new paragraph?) This line ends with Shift+enter so this line is single spaced - Shift+enter again results in single space again whilst Enter Reverts back to a new paragraph and thus space between this line and the previous one. I think shift+enter has the same effect in many windows programs. Ian

#1 A small, additional point that I have commented on elsewhere; the diagram shows that the cam sensor return should be connected to 0V at pin #23 (which is how they are wired, ex factory) and not to pin #31 as has been mentioned previously on Blatchat." As far as I can see on that diagram MBE 9A4, CAM Inductive signal goes to pin 30 and the 0V goes to pin 5 0V. I can't see a pin 23 or pin 31 on there at all. Is there another diagram I'm not seeing?

How does the spark happen without the -ve side of the HT circuit being connected? I was hoping someone else would answer! I think the earth side of the circuit is the block and the path to earth is across the spark plug gap. The windings and iron core in the coil make it an impedance circuit so you can't think about it in the same way as a steady resistive DC circuit. However I never could really get my head around the details of mathematics of what happens. If we are lucky someone who really understands this in detail may chip in with a better more authoritive explanation. Just a thought - there is a good earth between the battery negative and the block?

The usual way a coil is wired is constant 12v supply (possibly through a ballast resistor) then it is earthed to allow a current to flow in the primary windings. When the earth is disconnected (points open) a high voltage is generated in the secondary winding which gives the spark from king lead to earth.

I expect you're right but it was the arrowed area on the filler neck that I was looking at. Roger has far wider experience than me - I'd listen to him. At the moment the unsealed system seems to be working on my 1990 crossflow.

The cap needs to seal in 3 places. The low pressure fluid return that you highlight in your first picture #23, the high pressure relief against the lower part of the filler neck and the top sealing ring against the top of the filler neck. From the last photo, it looks as though part of the sealing ring at the top of the filler neck is missing / damaged. If the filler is damaged then you may be sucking air in there rather than sucking water from the overflow container. It could of course just be a trick of the light and the filler neck may be perfect! Ian

A bit of a thread resurrection here. I'm just about to embark on the Rainexpert 3 route (185 70 13) and wondered what pressures people have settled on now that they've had more experience. Ian

I had one of those on my 1990 Supersprint. (now superseded with fuel injection.) I believe that there is a 6 pin connector on the other end of the cable. If the distributor has been replaced with another type (without the pick up that matches the amplifier) then I would expect you could just unplug the connector and remove the amplifier. Try disconnecting it and see what happens. all the best Ian

Did your Syphon tube reach the bottom of the tank? On my car the tank baffles prevent that. (Different car though).

I agree with SMT25 #2. Having said that it is nice to have the car under cover. I do not have any specific recommendations in your area of interest, however we do like staying in Logis Hotels www.logishotels.com If you search in the area of interest you can then filter the results based on many criteria including several parking options. Ian

It is also possible to purchase just the electrical switch section. Depending on what their problem is, that may be a cheaper solution.

Fig 10.4.4 in the 1990 assembly guide shows the position of the cuts in the plate - now I've checked, removal of the 1/4" bolt may not be necessary.

If you are fortunate and the original assembler followed the guide, the plate between engine and gearbox will have been cut so that if the starter motor, two bolts at the bottom of the bell housing and one 1/4" ? on R/h side (looking forward) are removed then the bottom half of the plate can be removed thus giving access to the two most rearward bolts on the sump.

I may have missed it further up the thread - but have you checked the MFRU? Isn't it this, in the engine bay, that contains the Fuel pump relay and main ECU supply relay? I believe that Revilla has put wiring diagrams and explanations on Blat Chat in the past.

Here are a few shots of my custom built tank made to go in the same position in a right hand drive X/flow powered De-dion car. .

Fitted in 2015. The hole for the adjusting strap was not threaded, so I replaced the hex head screw with a longer bolt and nut. (funnily enough the spare I bought at the same time seems to have a threaded hole - would need to check whether the thread is the same). It's a while ago, I may have needed to space the adjusting strap with a washer to ensure alignment - I can't remember. I chose to change to ring terminals for the B+ connection as the 25 year old spade connectors were past their best, a bit corroded and were causing a voltage drop between the alternator and the wiring behind the dash. I think you can get different Amp versions. The one I linked to may be more amps than mine. (I can't find any rating on it) My apologies, now I look at the receipt it says A460 - though the linked alternator does say it replaces the A460.

When my last alternator failed, my local electrical factor sold me a A127 style one. It had a couple of advantages: There is very little plastic at the end near the exhaust pipe. It has a standard Lucas connector. It also has a threaded post for the "Battery Connection(s)" It was not expensive ~ £60. As I have had problems with the standard individual spade terminals working loose in the past, I changed the main heavy duty wires to ring terminals and used the threaded post. (I kept the ignition connection in a standard Lucas connector). Here is a link to an example https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/908/category/168 Ian

I've used an Innovate LC-1. I initially had some problems with noisy signals which were cured by incorporating a 1:1 OP amp.My bigger concern has always been exhaust sealing and the possibility of air being sucked into the joints of the 4:1 collector. I notice that Emerald sell a kit (I think it may be a 14point7 product). Whilst I've not looked around at prices or reviews, I think I'd probably be tempted by that. Ian

Have you considered getting your existing master cylinder rebuilt? It may be a cost effective solution, avoiding the need to modify the pipework and maintaining "originality" - If that's your thing. As far as I can see the only downside would be the turn-around time for the rebuild / remanufacture.

Blatmail me an address and I'll put one in the post. Ian

My 1990 build manual describes them as: the lower forward mounting is attached to the chassis using two special 12mm X 65mm , 1/2" shank bolts through the metalastic bushes. newer cars may have 12mm bushes rather than the 1/2" ones in my 1990 dedion. Ian

Looking at that review, and after a quick google, is the statement of maximum expected error correct? I think Grade B is +- 2% of span which in the case of the 0-60psi gauge shown would be 1.2psi. What is shown in the article is +- 2% of reading which, I think, is wrong. If my understanding is correct, then there is a strong case for having a lower range gauge for the Seven - say 0-30psi. Ian

Try this link for more information than you ever wanted about econoseal connectors (Assuming that is what you have) https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Specification+Or+Standard%7F114-3040%7FD%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_SS_114-3040_D.pdf%7FN-A https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Specification+Or+Standard%7F114-3040%7FD%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_SS_114-3040_D.pdf%7FN-A

I believe they are 56-1350. I bought them from the K&N Store https://www.knfilters.co.uk/ for £146 the pair. Ian

https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/handbrake-cable-rubber-boots