alan c

Golf tees can be used but you can also get blanking plugs that will screw onto the hose. The people doing the calipers May have these, if not you can find them on Amazon. System will still need bleeding whatever you do.

Agree replace the foam but I would be very interested to hear if anyone has any experience of the metal baffle sold by Caterham Austria. if it works it takes away the hassle/worry of the foam Alan

I cannot help with your specific installation but I have had the dual race tech gauge on my VX for many years now with no problems

I did this some time ago and I also got all the parts from Think Auto. If you are doing this you might want to add mechanical gauges at the same time or at least give yourself the option to add these later. Whilst on subject of VX engines and oil does anyone have any experience with the sump baffle offered by Caterham Austria

I cannot take a picture right now but I am fairly certain the first photo looks exactly like the set up on my car which is 1993 and I run 15x8 rears. I replaced the drop links with new ones last year with current CC items with no issues except for a struggle to get the old ones off

Yes you have to take the suspension apart and then drop the tank out. I was very busy when my tank was causing problems and it was removed for me by some very good friends. While it is out to get the leak dealt with I suggest you get Arch to check the mounts for the fuel pump and the fuel guage sender to make sure both are flat and true - that's why mine had to come out twice! Hence very good friends. if you want to see what it looks like out of the car send me your email address I have some pictures somewhere. There are, I believe, at least two versions of this tank. One is circa 44L capacity and there is a larger one the top of which is very close to the top of the boot.

I have the same "saddle tank" in my car and had mine repaired by Arch. They made them originally so they know where all the baffles are etc. It should also have foam in it as well.

Hi I bought one if these kits for my car having been told by CC it would fit my older car with some small adaptations. It looked like it would need more than that so I purchased a roll of similar material and made my own patterns. I had engine and gearbox out at the time so not to difficult. I imagine it would be hard to do much down the tunnel with the gear box in situ. If the kit from CC is of use to anyone I still have it and I am open to offers, it will release some space in my garage if it goes. Alan

Stuart also did a very nice job rebuilding my VX lump last year

Has anyone got any direct experience of the metal baffle offered by Caterham Austria? Or for that matter aware of anything else similar ? i don't feel the need for a full dry sump but would like to avoid the foam if I can

Hi I have the AP brakes and the spot caliper as installed when my car was built in 93 so if you need a photo of that let me know. The hand brake/spot caliper is not brilliant, mine is only really effective once a year around about MOT time.

I got replacement carpets for my 93 car last year from Redline so suggest you so speak to them.

I got replacement carpets for my 93 car last year from Redline so suggest you so speak to them.

I cannot comment about the Sigma upgrades but he did a great job rebuilding my VX engine this time last year.

Sorry had some IT issues and not been able to post for 24 hours. To answer an earlier question I am using Mobil 1 DOT 4 fluid and it is all new unused and purchased very recently so I hope the quality of the fluid is not an issue. I am not ultra impressed with the bleed nipples on the front calipers so perhaps some sealer on the thread may help but will that make any difference if there is no leak once they have been done up. I don't have a vacuum bleeder but I will ask at work - we have a few useful brands in our portfolio - and if I can borrow one I will. We have a nice digital pressure system but it's very expensive and we don't have a demo one to hand where I am that I can borrow. I plan to talk to Redline about new seals for the master cylinder. Looking at the Caterham web site I think I have the standard one not the unrated AP one but it's not clear and my car was built in 93 so parts have changed a little since then. If I do get new seals how easy is it to replace them? Based in my performance so far it needs to be simple.

I have tried the front calipers several times sometimes inner first and sometimes outer and it makes no difference. The pedal is so soft it is not safe to take the car on the road, it was bad enough turning the car round in the road to reverse it into the garage for easier access. Going to try traditional approach next and see what happens and it has also been suggested I leave it under pressure for several hours and see what happens.

Ok I don't have a bias valve I would have spotted it in those locations. Order you set out is the order I have been following. I will persuade "boss" to help again tomorrow evening and see if going back to traditional method makes any difference. I had best put the heater in the garage for a while first though. It is an integral garage with some insulation but it has not been very warm this weekend.

Ok I don't have a bias valve I would have spotted it in those locations. Order you set out is the order I have been following. I will persuade "boss" to help again tomorrow evening and see if going back to traditional method makes any difference. I had best put the heater in the garage for a while first though. It is an integral garage with some insulation but it has not been very warm this weekend.

Hi Fairly convinced the original problem was not the mater cylinder. We were able test the car at an MOT station on their rolling road and vibration/judder was only evident on the front wheels. So I assumed if it had been the cylinder it would have been evident on all wheels. Having said that I guess I cannot rule out that there is now a problem there given car was sat for about a months with no brakes. I did start with the traditional method of foot on pedal but purchased the Sealey kit so I could try and make progress on my own. I might go back to traditional approach tomorrow evening. There are no visible leaks anywhere and if I leave the system connected to the Sealy brake bleeder with 20psi of pressure it holds that. I am not aware if I have a brake bias valve and I have certainly not adjusted one. If had one where would it be and what does it look like.

Thanks for the various comments, I have had another go today and not really made any progress. In answer to the various questions:- 1 Fluid I am using is new and purchased in last couple of weeks so that should be ok. 2 I had a brake judder issue and have already replaced front discs etc so calipers were away for a refurb to try and solve that so I have not yet got as far as trying the car on the road so newish pads not the issue. At least if so I have not got that far yet. 3 if I pump the pedal and keep my foot on it there is no further movement and pedal feels firmer but not right, it does not go down even with foot on brake for some time. Take foot off and leave for a few seconds and it's soft again. So I don't think its an issue with the master cylinder. 4 I had rear calipers as high as I could get them and ran about 0.5 L through them whilst tapping them. Fluid runs clear with no bubbles. (Block of wood is wedged between the pistons) Unless I am missing something it still feels like there is air in the system somewhere. Any other ideas?

Hi The fronts are vertical with two bleed nipples at top so fairly sure problem is with the rears. They are on flexible hoses so have them unbolted and I am holding them vertical with the bleed nipple at the top. I will have another go in the morning and focus on the rears holding them higher and perhaps tapping them a little. I am using the Sealy pressure system which helps a lot and if I leave the system pressurised it hold the pressure so no leaks and there are also non visible . Just got a little frustrated, tried traditional method last week and had hoped the Sealy system and taking th rears of and holding them would solve the issue. Will let frustration subside with some red and try again in the morning.

I am struggling to get my brakes bled properly. Car has the up rated AP calipers front and rear, and front ones are just back from a refurb. I have pushed 1.5L through and fluid is running clear with no bubbles but the pedal is still soft I have the rear ones unbolted so I can have them vertical with the bleed nipple at the top. Any others tricks I can try? Alan

Thanks, the manual I managed to buy doesn't cover these brakes.

can anyone tell me correct torque setting for the bolts holding the caliper to the hub?

Hi I tried this once and found it was not easy to get the glass with the rubber surround back into the frame. Removal of frame from car and old glass from frame is ok. It was a while ago now and it felt like the seal was a little too thick but entirely possible it was operator error.