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Paul Deslandes

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Everything posted by Paul Deslandes

  1. Paul Deslandes
    TSK Address: 2A Sandcliff Rd, Erith DA8 1NY Phone: 01322 441604
  2. Paul Deslandes
    Bump steer article Bottom line is, if the rack top and bottom clamps are the same thickness, raise the rack by adding 9mm spacers under each clamp to minimise/eliminate bump steer. If the lower clamp is 9 - 10mm thicker than to top, you probably have the factory modified clamps. Paul
  3. Paul Deslandes
    Probably pulled out of its little male bullet connector so look for a black ground wire with black female bullet connector attached.
  4. Paul Deslandes
    Either buy a service kit from Big Redd if you're up for doing it yourself, provided of course that the piston and caliper cylinders are in good condition, or go for their service exchange units. Before you refit, check the archive for tips on bleeding the rears as they can be problematic to get the last bit of air out. You'll also need a wind-back tool to get the pistons right back into the bore. Paul
  5. Paul Deslandes
    Thanks Shaun
  6. Paul Deslandes
    It's definitely not finger trouble in my case. Paul
  7. Paul Deslandes
    I'm seeing the same problem, including one regarding a thread that I haven't contributed to! I've received several repeats of the same notice in at least two instances. Paul
  8. Paul Deslandes
    It's the battery voltage sense wire so you can either leave it disconnected (but insulated!) or add it to the two thick ones on B+. However, if you have an FIA cutout switch you should leave it disconnected or you may bypass the switch and risk having a very large current flowing through the relatively thin wire. The original alternator voltage regulator used that connection to 'sense' the battery voltage at the battery terminal and the regulator controlled the alternator output accordingly. The new alternator ignores any voltage drop along the wires and assumes that the voltage at the battery and alternator output, connected by one of the thick brown wires, is the same or, at least, close enough. Paul
  9. Paul Deslandes
    Also on the same link, Section 14.10 describes the installation and functionality. Page 8, 9 & 10 refer. Diagram towards the end on page 18 as noted above. This is straight out of the CC manual supplied with my 2 litre Vx car in 1995. Paul
  10. Paul Deslandes
    http://www.fastgrandad.co.uk/documents/S3%201995%20Build%20Manual/Section%2014.%20Optional%20Extras.pdf page 18
  11. Paul Deslandes
    Tony doesn't do internet, he's too busy painting cars. Best thing would be to ring him on +44 1322 441604. He's a nice guy and should be able to help. Paul
  12. Paul Deslandes
    Whatever you do don't put the old one back. As Paul says, with modern oils they either break up or go into a gooey mess and stop the oil from getting to the pick up pipe. Unfortunately you can't run without it or the oil will slosh to one side of the sump or the other when cornering and you'll have oil starvation. Hopefully Caterham have them in stock as I don't know of any other source. If you search the archive you'll find a number of threads on oil system mods, most of which relate to the C20XE 2 litre engine but some will apply to the 1800. If you don't want to go to the expense and complication of a dry sump, have a look at fitting an Apollo tank. Again, lots in the archives. Paul
  13. Paul Deslandes
    If you really want to stop try PFC. I use their 01 compound, now superseded by 13 compound, for hill climbs and on the road and they are magic. So long as you don't mind very black wheels from the dust, and not cheap.
  14. Paul Deslandes
    Unlikely to be fluid if you have a firm pedal although advice above very sound. More likely glazed pads and/or disks. You could try abrading the pads to see if that makes any difference, and then the disks which you will need to do anyway if you're going to change the pad material type. You could consider putting on new disks as the standard ones are cheap enough. Ex Triumph Herald/Spitfire as I recall and available from Rimmer Bros for £11.50 each incl VAT Paul
  15. Paul Deslandes
    The continuity buzzer is really to indicate when buzzing through a cable or loom that you've got the right wire or connector pin, rather than guaranteeing its integrity. Without doubt a Fluke meter is the dog's but for most of our purposes cheaper items are perfectly satisfactory. I have a couple of multimeters from Lidl that were less than £20 and come in shock resistant cases. I also have a couple of other cheapies that can test transistor hfe, useful if you're into electronics but not really if you're not. I agree with JK re the extra leads with crock clips. Paul
  16. Paul Deslandes
    If it doesn't handle bumpy corners you might want to check bump steer. As a first step check the height of the steering rack above the chassis cross member plate that it sits on. More info in the article here. There are a couple of appendices to the original article at the end of the on-line version so be sure to scroll right to the end. Correcting it if it's wrong can be a huge improvement in general, on-the-road handling. In all cases that have been reported back to me, the addition of 9 or 10mm spacers under each rack clamp does the trick on either standard or narrow track and both the earlier common top fixing and the later separate top wishbone/shock absorber mounting. Paul
  17. Paul Deslandes
    James 15mm i/d heater hose Paul
  18. Paul Deslandes
    It's not just a PIN code, the ECU access is encrypted and very few tuners have been given the necessary access software.
  19. Paul Deslandes
    Steve Greenald at Track N' Road can reprogram the locked MBE ECU, but you will have to travel to Rainham in Essex. Maybe Northampton Motorsport can also do it but I've never asked. Lots of stuff in the archives on reprogramming. Paul
  20. Paul Deslandes
    Page 18 of this link is printed on A4 so should be to scale. Paul
  21. Paul Deslandes
    I can't imagine why that might have happened unless they were overtightened. Either that or some or all were loose allowing them to fatigue. To get them out I would remove the inlet carbs and manifold/injection system and the steering column so that you can get at the holes. You really need a good clear view of what you're looking at so, if drilling, you can go in straight and perpendicular. Ideally you'd want to spot weld something to the end of the broken bolt that can be used to unscrew the broken remains. I've never had much success with stud extractors but the original bolts are M10 so there might be enough meat on them to risk drilling and using a large stud extractor. Whatever you do, take your time. Best of luck Paul
  22. Paul Deslandes
    Lots if stuff in archives about override switches, relays and clearing airlocks. Best way to clear an airlock is to raise the front of the car as high as possible on jacks (safely!) and run engine with rad cap and top plug removed until hot, keeping topped up, although it'd sometimes easier to drain down again first. Trapped air usually comes out with a burp, a bit like 'winding' a baby! Paul
  23. Paul Deslandes
    the normal method is to use a drop plate on the tow vehicle. This bolts vertically onto the vehicle hitch bolt holes and has pairs of holes for the ball hitch at different heights to suit the trailer. e.g. https://www.fieldfare.co.uk/maypole-zinc-plated-4-inch-drop-plate.html?source=googlebase&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpvzZBRCbARIsACe8vyL_o5k8SOBlgF1ZBFo27uu2jcszUzPegHJesaj4ZIrxeCa4CP4mTnAaAjyAEALw_wcB
  24. Paul Deslandes
    I've done it both ways but favour engine only. It's very important to ensure that the clutch driven plate is exactly lined up with the spigot bearing, otherwise it can be very difficult to get it back in. An old gearbox input shaft is ideal but, with care, you can eyeball it. Use an easily adjustable jack under the gearbox to adjust the tilt angle when removing and reinstalling. Best of luck Paul
  25. Paul Deslandes
    A lot of sockets have a radiused face so they don't engage fully onto a thinned down bolt head. This can cause them to slip so if possible either turn or file the socket face so that it's flat to allow the maximum engagement with the hex. Paul
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