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Nick Chan

Area Representative
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Everything posted by Nick Chan

  1. Possible rubbing on cycle wing stays as the tyre flexes? Have a look for some witness marks on the tyres as a polished band. Also i had a handbrake cable touch the prop in the tunnel very lightly under high speed corners, I suppose the cable was swinging over very slightly and needed a cable tie to help keep it in place
  2. What a read! i've just spent an hour and a half going through all 14 pages and there are definite similarities to how my supersport car now starts and drives. i'm off to check some of the points covered Nick
  3. This was an option offered by Fluke Motorsport (presumably for MOG) several years ago. Normally their JPE style aero was bonded/riveted directly to the scuttle but when the CC interchangeable version came out, a fitting kit was provided for the MOG version to make it easier to fit and remove.
  4. Screwfix have a range of very well priced safety glasses with clear or smoked lenses. Otherwise buy a decent set from the internet with interchangeable lenses. Aero’ing is the way to go
  5. Slight mod to Nick’s instructions above, I slacken the 6 small screws holding the stanchions to the windscreen frame to avoid and scrapes to the scuttle and then undo the main 4 bolts and lift the lot off
  6. Adjust the clamp holding the outer cable at the valve end so that when you push the knob on the bulkhead, the inner cable bends slightly at the valve end and keeps some pressure on the valve to make sure it’s shut off properly.
  7. I’ve got an SV one for older imperial chassis if you want for £10. I can send it over with Richard if that suits cheers Nick
  8. Hi Tom, I think that's Finmac's new car. I'm sure he will be along shortly.
  9. As Chris suggests above for the wheels and using the foot brake, it’s no problem with a breaker bar. Otherwise see if you can borrow a wheel nut gun. The impact motion managed to do mine whilst the car was on axle stands
  10. Get a tyre rack sorted that fits to the roll bar and carry track wheels there. You can usually borrow a jack and wrench or carry these in the footwell too. I'd get a cheap set of track wheels and slicks and save your expensive road tyres. With regards size, I haev used my 13" x 6" rims with 6" slicks on everything from 120 to 200+ bhp and had a whale of a time!
  11. Hi Jim, Its easy to do all of the engine mounts including metallastic bushes with a jack under the sump (protected by a piece of wood). Gearbox is very straightforward too and can all be done from underneath - I loosened the large 19mm bolts into the metalastic bushes and the engine mounts on to the block with the jack under the sump and then undid the large bolt holding the box to mount and then undid the smaller bolts holding the g'box mount to chassis. Using another trolley jack under the middle of the gearbox to get a bit of a lift and the mount came free. It was a surprisingly easy job even on an S3 and should be real easy on an SV!
  12. Hi Paul, they are yours then. Do you want them sent out by courier or local collection? I'll let you know postage if via courier if you can PM your address. Thanks Nick
  13. Hi, similar to other folks and having a bit of a clearout (actually fed up moving them when I open a cupboard with Caterhams bits in it!) Pair of Caterham 4-point harnesess in very nice condition. Well past sell-by date for racing but more than suitable for club sprints or general road driving. They have 3" wide should straps and 2" wide waist belts. They came from my 1998 supersport car and have been unused and stored since 2006 when the previous owner took the car off the road. I fitted Willans belts when I started to use the car. £50 plus postage or local collection. Cheers Nick
  14. Thanks chaps. I’ll get it refitted
  15. Hi, Is the seal on the take off plate (fits between the plate with the two large pipes and the oil filter housing) re-usable? I have removed the Apollo tank, pipes and the take off plate to get access to the pipe closest to the block and wonder if this seal has to be replaced when I re-fit the system? TIA Nick
  16. I think i'd leave the standard exhaust on the shelf for the day when noise limits on tracks become a problem or is it possible to have a new end cap made for your current side silencer to be side exit and changeable to fit the rear exit section if needs be?
  17. Hi POR-15 is used as a base coat to protect the metal and restrict rusting. it should be painted with a top coat if its going to be seen plus its very glossy when it dries. I'd use Hammerite satin black. In fact I think that's what Arch use when they are touching up chassis repairs but that was a few years ago.
  18. I think I would remove all the existing poppers from the half doors and fit them to match whatever is on the car rather than try the other way round. The old holes on the doors won't be as noticeable as the new extra poppers on the car!
  19. Yellow seven C7 KCK around 3pm today. We were heading back from Anglesey after watching the club sprints - a motorhome so you wouldn't have spotted us!!
  20. Hi Matthew, that’s fine for me. Whereabouts are you in Bedfordshire?
  21. Hi Matthew. Are the side mirrors convex or flat? If convex I’m interested thanks nick
  22. Hi Anthony, to separate is definitely a wiggle and tug to get the system apart and I leave the primaries firm to get a decent purchase on them. Refitting is much easier though when its all apart. i attach the primaries loosely to the head, apply exhaust paste or copper grease if a good fit and this helps massively with getting the collector and then silencer(s) into place. when its all fitted, I can then tighten the primaries and all the other joints as needs be and get it aligned properly. Not much effort at all to assemble on to the car.
  23. Roadsport 3 are a good all round road tyre at a decent price. One of the cars on the Picos trip has them in 14” and no problem driving hard on the twisties!
  24. Hi. Powered mount are those that can have the 12v lead attached to power on the move. Non-powered simply hold the sat nav and cannot be attached to 12v power. Not sure if these have better batteries than the car equivalents but my unit is a few years old and still will run for a couple of hours with no power connection. I have the powered mount though. A quick search on eBay shows there are several available inlcuding the ram mount - check if the winding roads option is on unit though as not sure it was all of them. Or maybe its not on the very early units, I can't quite remember! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TomTom-RIDER-2nd-Edition-Europe-Motorcycle-GPS-Receiver/223142181523?epid=97488201&hash=item33f44f7a93:g:0WcAAOSw~X1bmOgP
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