Ozzy
-
Posts
3,691 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Ozzy
-
My cars exactly the same. But I only noticed this over this winter ( And I've had it 10 years!), when I chucked away the crappy original lights, and fitted new slim LED fog & reversing lights. Thought it was a bit odd tbh, but not bothered, as why would I want to drive in fog with the headlights on main beam, unless I really didn't want to see where I was going of course! Obviously, it's never failed an Mot either, although I do have a friendly local garage who aren't too pernickety!
-
Very easy, and surprisingly cheap, even using parts from CC!
-
Sounds like more bull**** to me! Surely, if the pump had arrived, and the bloke had it in his hands, he'd have been straight on the blower to you after all the trouble!
-
There's a company next to our office in Thame called Primary Designs. They make bespoke systems for all sorts of exotica, but don't suppose they'll be cheap, judging by some of the kit I've seen them working on! Course, I may be wrong, so might be worth a call.
-
That's why you also need the 22 ohm resistor, as shown on the RH side of the Maplin page. Still maintains it's visibility on a bright day as its shrouded, but also extends the life of the LED array apparently. The Maplin one and the resistor, is what I've had on my car for about 8 years now.
-
You need something like Dave Allen's or a shrouded round one. Don't bother with the striplight type, as you can't see them in sunlight. Oz.
-
Do you all think they get away with this crap, simply because they are so small, and none of this ever gets reported in the media, as no one outside the band of hard core owners really gives a toss what they do 🤔 Edited to add: RR1977, I can't imagine how you must be feeling, having parted with what, in excess of 40K Oz. Edited by - ozzy on 10 Apr 2014 20:32:59
-
Gent's, Solved this problem years ago. What you need is velcro hook and loop ties. The ones I have are made by Sellotape. In big letters on the packet it says Cable ties, then on the bottom Hook & loop ties. They are 6 x 12 x 200mm, and on the back of the packet it says re-order code 4317. I think they are primarily used as cable tidies, back of telly etc. Pretty sure I bought them in an office stationary shop. Oz.
-
Come on Guy's! Surely everyone should experience the joy of welding your spanner to the battery/bodywork, at some point in their lives
-
Sorry, I was indeed referring to the bags of packing, which is what I use. It's just easier to work with! You can get the end cap screws out easily, but you need to cut down an allen key to suit. Oz.
-
You don't need to take the can off to do this! Jack up the back off car, take the wheel off, take the end cap off the silencer, and there's enough room to pack it. Oz.
-
Just go to Tony. I've got a 40th, and about 2 years ago had the nosecone, bonnet and both front wings resprayed by TSK. Perfect match, you really can't tell. Oz.
-
Right, as it looks like the cables are for LH drive, I'll pass. Thanks anyway.
-
Maybe someone can shed some light on this? A chap in the for sale section has some cables for sale, and these are marked SBB10173 I think that mine might be SBB10176. So, does anyone know what the difference may be, or whether they would both fit anyway? Oz.
-
If this fits a K series Supersport with single throttle body, then I'd like a throttle cable please. Oz.
-
Yes, we've all seen similar pictures before, many times! An airline does quite obviously blow a lot of the crap out, judging by all the sh*t that hits you in the face! Probably like backfilling a blocked drain. Sure, they'll be something left in there, but at least you can get access to Waxoyl it at will. Unlike if you block the whole lot off and leave it to quietly rot! Each to their own.
-
I'm not convinced trying to seal these is the right thing to do, as however clever you think you've been in sealing them, water will always get in there! All I do every year, usually at the end of the summer, is blow all the accumulated grit/crap out with a high pressure air line, using a flexible piece of 8mm air pipe stuck on the end of my air gun, and then apply another liberal dose of waxoyl. Repeat every year. Oz.
-
Well why stand around scratching your head for days? Just cut to the chase! Seems fairly straight forward to me, as after all, the existing lights are only worth about 50 pence 😬
-
If this falls apart for some reason, please let me know, and I'll have them. Oz
-
Personally, I think you've got no chance of getting those screws out, even if you move the tank a bit, as they are Phillips heads, and there still won't be enough room to get to them. Whoever came up with that method of fixing them, needs shooting! It'll certainly be a right pig, and could take you hours! If it were me, I'd carefully break the existing lights off, just hacksaw them up a bit, so you're left with the stud and hex nut poking out, and then use a cutting disc on an angle grinder and slice them off. Oz,
-
Anyone, with even half a brain, would like to see a return to bench seats in all cars! Any red blooded male, can see the advantages in this 😬
-
Never bothered to figure out how to link to previous posts, but if you search R500D Nose Cone, you'll find my experience of this. Not sure why you've been told the rear lip is different, as this certainly wasn't my experience Anyway, search for the post, and have a read. Oz
-
Well it must have been reasonably strong, as you're still here
-
Regarding the engine. Are there any fundamental differences between this and the 1600? Is it just stroke, and the block and head are identical, or is there more to it??
