Ozzy

Hi Paul/San, Sorry to hear you're selling her, (the car that is, not the Misses) but I guess you have your reasons, as we all do for doing things. Anyway, for what it's worth, anyone looking for an R400SV, I very much doubt you'll find a shinier better looked after car, so if you're in the market, this is a must see! And I'm not just saying that because I know the bloke, it is a beautiful car! Oz.....

Thanks, some interesting info. Can you tell me where the fuel pressure regulator is located? Is this the gadget on the top of the plenum. Also, what do you mean by detonation? I know where the TPS is, and obviously the Lambda sensor, but apart from that I can't see any other sensors that might be fuel/air related, so I'm assuming this is all controlled from the ECU with a standard map? Oz.

Car seems to be lacking a bit of power when floored, and occasionally there is a sort clattery noise which sounds like its from the top of the engine. (For example, coming off a roundabout, say 30/40 mph in second, floor it and you get the above scenario) It's had new plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm. But the original plugs look exceptionally clean, very very light brown, so it does look as though its running very lean! It's an EU2 supersport, with the original Rover sealed ECU, so I gather theres nothing can be done with this. If it is fuelling, is there anything else to look for, maybe sensor etc, that could cause lean mixture? I disconnected the Lambda sensor, but this didn't seem to make any difference on the road whatsoever. So does anyone know if anything else controls fuelling/mixture? Also, theres a vacuum pipe from the plenum which goes to the ECU via a small black oblong box mounted on the bulkhead. Does anyone know what this box does? It's not misfiring or anything like that, all temps are normal. it's also had a new fuel filter, and the fuel pump primes as normal, but I think if there was a problem with the fuel pump, it'd be more noticable/serious. Bit baffled at the moment! Anyone experienced something similar? Oz...

Is that really worth that sort of money? I must be out of touch! Good luck with it anyway, nice little bonus if you get it.

Not sure what the leather one looks like, but I have the ally 6 speed knob. Mine is screwed on ( standard orientation) but there is a small grub screw near the base to lock it. Maybe you also have a grub screw? Oz...

Hmm..... Had Magnecour red leads on my car for a while, but they started to fall apart! First to go was the lead to the coil, closely followed by no1 lead. Connections fell apart at dizzy end. They never fitted in the plug holes properly anyway, so wasn't that impressed with them from day one. Chucked them all away a few weeks ago, and fitted OE leads from Rimmer Bros! Not sure about Elise parts either. Bought a dizzy cap and rotor arm from them. Rotor arm didn't fit, too tight on shaft so never used it, dizzy cap was cheap copy. Soon replaced with OE parts! Oz.....

Right folks, For anyone interested, WJN101192 is definitely the wrong filter! Got one from Allparts WK 612/2 Many thanks to John "the pit" Bio, for helping me to fit it. Oz.....

Hmm.... It's all a bit confusing! Mines a 1998 1600 K EU2 if that's of any help? Can there really be much difference in these, as it's only a filter? Oz....

Could anyone confirm if Rimmer Bros part WJN101192 is the correct filter? I've looked at old threads, but none mentions the Rimmer part. This is what they list for Rover 200/400 and Land Rover, but not sure if it's correct. Oz.....

I have a leather dashboard, and strangely, leather care cream seems to restore them quite nicely. Beats me! Oz......

Well, I quite like my lightweight flywheel, and it does spin up faster. Coupled with piper Verniers, it does indeed produce a nice throaty lumpy idle, which has been described by some as "purposeful" Oz....

If, like most on here, you change the oil every 3000 or so, then it's not a big deal not draining what's left in the Apollo tank. They can be a pain, and they are also very thin! The drain plug can be very tight to get out, and you need to be really careful with this, or you could tear it open. Later versions had a hex section on the base, so you can hold the base with a spanner whilst undoing the drain plug. These are a little less susceptible to damage. Early versions don't have the hex, so there's nothing to get hold of, and best method if it's tight, is give the Allen key a clout, rather than exerting extreme force pulling at it. Oz.....

For what they charge for these, the quality is crap quite frankly! I sent two carbon aero's back, before I got one that I could work with. Even then it wasn't perfect, as the centre bit where you put the poppers is not quite central, and is noticeable as I have stripes up to the scuttle. By this time I'd got fed up with the hassle, and just decided to keep it, which to be honest I shouldn't have done! If it's really that bad, I'd send it back. Oz....

Yep, Sent back my speedo and Rev counter last year, as the speedo was starting to stick sometimes, and unbelievably a spider got into the Rev counter face and died in there! Had them both stripped, cleaned, new bezels as they were fading a bit, new innards etc, all for £160. Bargain.

Does anyone have a picture of the gasket mod they can send to Ahmed? Might as well do it properly, whilst the sump is off. Oz......

Ditch the foam Ahmed! Removed mine about 8 years ago. Last time the engine was stripped down, about 3 years ago, big end shells and crank in A1 condition, despite my usual heavy cornering! And I can see the pressure drop on the mechanical gauge, which is always a bit alarming!

You've lost me. Are you saying the switch works the opposite way round? If so, reverse connections or turn the switch upside down, or is the live in the wrong place? Pull all connectors off, turn lights on and see which cable has 12v to it. Should be the centre one. Oz....

Blimey! Don't remember it being that expensive! That's the one though. Oz....

Paul, You can get a new water rail from CC, as I did a few years ago, and it's not that expensive. As your car is similar age to mine, the new rail will probably be shorter, as the heater hose connection (if you have one), is in a different position, and you'll need a longer hose. The critical thing about mounting the new rail, is to ensure the flange at the back meets the block dead flat. If you offer it up, and it's slightly off because the bracket at the front is pushing it out a bit, it's very easy to bend the rail slightly outwards in a vice, then bolt the flange part in place ( with the gasket!), and just fit a spacer at the front bracket end to fill the gap. Regarding your oil leak, I suspect it's far more likely that this is leaking around the valve guides, and being pushed out through the exhaust manifold, and you probably haven't got a perfect seal on the exhaust gasket, which is why you're seeing it down the block underneath the exhaust manifold. If you pull your primaries off, I'm betting you'll see oil traces inside the pipes. Worth looking at, before you start ripping the head off! Oz.....

Ian, he's been told that in the other thread. But hey ho, when he melts his LEDs, perhaps he'll feel differently!

Daniel, I have pretty much exactly the same light, although mine came from Maplin. You "do" need to fit an inline resistor. Not merely because it's too bright, but you will eventually burn out the LED array. I can't remember the value, as I probably fitted mine 8 years ago, but lots of people have the same light, so hopefully someone can remember. It's probably in the archives somewhere, if you can figure out how to search on here.

Quite agree, if it's now working, leave it alone. Assuming dry weather (we live in hope), I'm intending to go on the Sunday. Not interested in the usual meet at McDonald's though, as I prefer a proper well done bacon roll at Stoneleigh, not the rubber stuff they dish out! Oz..

So what was the problem in the end?

Have you got the car sorted yet Phil?? Must be time for a blat!

What do you mean there were no bolts? How the hell was the thing secured then? Oz..