Ozzy

For those that haven't done this before, it is a relatively easy job. You'll probably find that the old ones are seized in situ, but it's not that hard to get them out. But, be a bit careful cleaning the corrosion out from where the bearing sits in the wishbone, as it's very easy to go a bit too far, and when you slot the new bearing in, you'll find its a bit loose! Don't panic if this is the case, simply get a center punch, and put a few dinks around where the bearing will sit, and for a proper job, its a good idea to use loctite bearing fit to glue it in place, as the last thing you want, is for the bearing housing to rotate in the wishbone. Don't get any of this in the moving part of the bearing though! Just take it slow, and it'll be a piece of whatsit Oz.

I think i'm confusing myself here, although that's not hard! For a 1600 K Supersport are the correct plugs NGK BCP7ES or NGK BCPR7ES? Only one letter different, so what's the difference? Thanks in advance, as I'm sure someone knows

Take out the large grub screw, and grind the point off, until you have a flat surface. It'll never come loose again. Don't take too much off. Remember that the grub screw is there to give way to prevent the steering wheel smashing you in the chest in the event of a front end collision. Can't say I'm too worried about that, as it's doubtful that this piece of rudimentary 19th century engineering would work anyway!

Every time I've suspected play there, it has actually turned out to be play in the steering column joint above the pedal box - try re-tightening the clamp bolts there... Take out the large grub screw, and grind the point off, until you have a flat surface. It'll never come loose again. Oz

lasted about 20,000 road miles Not on a seven surely I'd be lucky if I saw 5K out of any tyres! So, looks like no one has any experience of these, probably best left alone then!

Yes, I know you're all groaning, at yet another tyre thread! I was just looking on Canskill, and wondered if anyone had used these? They advertise them as a trackday tyre, but I assume they're road legal? Although they advertise the Toyo R1R as a trackday tyre, which are brilliant on the road, but carp on track in my experience! Anyway, I've never heard of these, but they're cheap! Also, there seem to be 2 types, one is (120) and the other (180) and I have no idea what this means? Anyone? Oz.

Well, maybe you should have pointed that out to the owners of K series cars, before being a cocky 🙆🏻

A clutch cable and throttle cable weigh f##k all, and having had the pleasure of both letting go, you'd be an 🙆🏻 not to carry them! Still, no doubt when yours fail, we won't hear about it, will we! Edited by - ozzy on 31 Aug 2013 20:59:17

Indeed they are, more often than you might think ❗

Absolute must, is clutch cable, throttle cable, couple of spare spark plugs, fuses, and if you have them, rotor arm and dizzy cap.

Just do it. It's a no brainer tbh, don't forget that that the part of the calipers your brake lines are attached to, is the part that moves. Some people maintain, that this removes a small bit of the resistance to the calipers actually moving, but aside from that, it makes it a piece of piss to remove the calipers to fit new pads, and more importantly, to clean the slides. And you can do all this, without disconnecting the brake lines, and having to bleed the system.

Well.....to be honest, I'm none the wiser! And quite frankly, I'm beginning to wonder, whether any of them make a busting lot of difference, as the fact is, myself, and everyone with a seven that I personally know, changes the oil every 3K or so regardless. So it's hardly in there long enough to deteriorate anyway. I notice that high performance engines are mentioned a couple of times, which I also find quite amusing. The cars may be reasonably high performance, but the engines certainly aren't! The K series (which I have) must be a 25 year old design, originally out of a Rover 200? And even the current Duratech must now be getting long in the tooth, but neither of them were intended for high performance vehicles, were they! It's hardly F1 territory. So, I suppose, the question is, does it really matter, as long as we are using the recommended type/rating? Oz.

So come on then. To support that statement, what is the difference between all these oils, which on the face of it, appear to be the same. As per my original question. Oz.

Sorry, I did mean Ultralite I missed out on Halfords, as I was away. By the time I got down there, it'd all gone! Maybe an expert will enlighten us shortly?

Just wondering if anyone has used Comma Euro Lite 5-40 fully synth? And maybe could explain why it's cheaper? Noticed this down at my local motor factors, and it's significantly cheaper than the usual Comma. 5 litres for £24, and the 1 litre bottles are £7, which appears to be good value. So what's the catch? When I read the spec on the back of most oils, mostly it seems to read the same, so I'm bemused as to what the actual differences are! Oz.

I've got a load of the splash-proof covers because I never bothered fitting them. Not had a problem so far. Not the point I was making. They look nicer with the covers on. More like a finished product, rather than just a nut screwed against your dashboard! Edited by - ozzy on 15 Aug 2013 12:59:52

Replace all your switches with the Pole Vault ones, and also fit the splashproof covers. Looks very neat afterwards

Well I agree with you John! 48's were, by a country mile, the worst tyre's I ever put on my car! Tramlined horribly, wore out in no time. Really dunno what people see in them.

Thanks all. I know I could have got my meter out, but thought it was quicker to ask, as I'm a lazy 🙆🏻 😬

Gent's, Took the screen off about 3 years ago, and now tidying up the wiring 😳 Can someone confirm that the cables I have found are correct. Left hand side black wire, right hand side green & pink wire. Does this sound right? Cheers.

You can get much nicer switches for your start button. Check out 7 speed!

We spotted each other, as we pulled into a petrol station, from opposite directions! Both in the 7 of course

That looks like you've got a spacer sat on top of the spherical bearing? Don't have that on my car

Ok, thanks for looking Michael. I was actually more interested in the Tyres for track work, but they are a little old for my taste, albeit with plenty of tread, but I'm sure the wheels are worth it alone. Good luck with the sale. Oz.

Ta