Mike Bees

Ignition map requirements do change significantly with cam changes, compression ratio changes and especially capacity changes. Mike

For your first (or even 2nd/3rd etc.) visit that's a fantastic time Ken. You must have difficulty walking with your thighs that far apart Mike

Interesting. It looks as though it needs a reasonable amount of clearance between the caliper and the wheel. Mike

Ambiguous question from me I'm afraid. I meant Trevor Willis' long-standing roadgoing Modprod? (Locaterfields etc.) record. Mike

So who broke Trevor's long-standing 2-litre class record, and by how much? Mike

Do you really *need* one? A handy/essential mapping aid (for which a wideband is a much better bet), but once it's mapped you don't really need it. Mike

Prospective buyers will probably want to know the width. Mike

The speed approach worked. Mike

Don't have air (well, not under pressure anyway...), but will try the speed approach. Have tried using a screwdriver as a wedge but to no avail. My Dad is currently scouring his garage for useful-looking wedge-shaped bits of metal. Thanks for the tips! Mike

Hmmm, well the current struggle is that it turns when I try to undo the wheelnut. Haven't yet managed to work out a way of gripping the back of the stud (not enough room to get pliers etc. in there). Grrrrrr. Mike

Thanks Steve, not a 5 minute job then ☹️ Mike

Just doing my final preparations to get the car back on the road & MOT'ed after nearly 2 years, and one of my rear wheel nuts won't torque up - the stud is turning. How big a job is it to change the studs and what's involved? Mike

The 'new' 8-spoke 6" fronts are 4.78kg, 8" rears are 5.44kg (this is from www.caterham.co.uk). The 'old' Barnby 3-piece wheels were approx 3.2-3.4kg (depending on whose measurement you believe) for the 6.5" fronts and around 3.9kg for the 8.5" rear. I doubt you'll *really* notice the difference. I'm not convinced that a 6" front is an improvement over a 6.5" though. Mike

Try swapping the dampers over as well in case one of them is duff? This will bugger up your corner weighting of course... but if you just do it for the purposes of the test and swap them back without touching the adjusters then you'll be back to where you were. Mike

Not trying to knock your idea Colin, 'cos I'm all in favour of collating useful data, but I suspect that you'll find there are many hundreds of owners with completely stock engines who have driven the a£$e off their cars without a problem - i.e. you won't get anywhere near a big enough sample of specific mods to make a useful judgement. Mike

I *think* the only LSD available for the Freeloader diff is a Quaife torque-sensing type. Mike

Maybe that's where I've gone wrong... I thought it was a plug. I'm sure I've had it off in the past without problems Can I email you a couple of piccies? Mike

Or just weigh yourself and work out where you need to stand on the bar to get 200lbft. Mike

It removed itself - it just fell into the tank when I tried to plug the black cap/connector onto it. I can't see what held it in the housing to prevent this from happening every other time I've removed & refitted the black connector. The epoxy sealant doesn't seal the plastic cap/connector against the tank, only the internals of the cap itself. Mike

I bought mine direct from the distributors in Norfolk for £85.18 incl. vat & delivery. Mike

After fitting new fuel tank, discovered that the pump didn't prime when the ignition was switched on. After an hour of chasing wires & multimeter mayhem I discovered I'd connected the wire from the pump to the foglight connector... Huge relief, swapped it over to the correct connector and - it still didn't prime. Removed the connector from the (in-tank) pump itself, tested it for continuity - OK, tested it for 12v when ignition switched on - OK, when to reconnect it to the pump and noticed that the pump-side connector (white plastic thing) had disappeared into the tank... I've now removed the pump from the tank and cannot see any way that the white plastic connector can be located/secured in the pump housing. I also don't see how, when the other end (black flying lead) is connected, it is supposed to be fuel-tight. Surely it can't be (a) just the interference fit of the connector in the hole in the housing, or (b) the flat rubber ring in the flying lead side connector being snug up against the outside of the housing. Currently the only way I can plug the flying lead in to the pump connector is to do it with the pump out to ensure that it doesn't just push the connector into the tank. *confused* Any ideas gratefully and urgently received. Mike

That would be interesting Dave (assuming you can be unbiased 😬). Mike

Aren't the old R400 slicks the same size as used in F3? Should still be plenty of those going cheap. These might be of interest: here, or here Mike

My tunnel-mounted handbrake has always been very good. Fine for torquing up the rear hub nuts, propshaft bolts, wheelnuts etc. Mike

I got lobbed off Combe some years back for being 'too noisy' on the drive-by, despite easing past the pit area in a high gear and despite a number of spectators scratching their heads and telling my my car wasn't anything like as noisy as a number of others which weren't pulled. Maybe he just didn't like yellow. Mike