julians
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Everything posted by julians
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Dont have one locally that I know of, tried to have a look in yellow pages, but not sure what category they'd come under. Found www.reco-prop.com on the net, but that would entail me posting it to them, not that big a deal, but might be easier if there was someone in the South Manchester region.
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hmmm, that all makes sense, sounds like a right pain. I was thinking of sending it away to a driveshaft reconditioner and have it rebuilt by them. Does anyone know of a good reliable company who can do this sort of thing?
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Or do I just buy a new one? I've got a bit of play on the inner (diff end) tripod joint, so I took the driveshaft out this morning, took the rubber boot off, expecting to be able to seperate the shaft from the 'cup' (if you know what I mean), but the 'cup' looks like it has been 'crimped' (dont know if thats the correct term) at the end so that the driveshaft cannot come out.
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Boing, Anyone care to comment on my problem?
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Bit of a thread highjack this, but sort of related- How much play is allowable in a drive shaft CV joint? My left hand side (passenger side) has a slight amount of play, the right hand side has none. I get a loud noise/slight vibration when on the lifting off the accelerator/on the overrun at high speed (50mph +), sounds to be coming from the diff area, its road speed related not engine speed, and happens in all gears. Not sure if its the diff or the driveshaft. There is no vibration/noise when accelerating or crusing at constant speed.
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I had a similar leak on the passenger side, turned out to be the tank had corroded slightly at one corner, leading to a pin prick hole.
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I have a 96 car, one of teh ones supposed to have very bad powder coat. but the only area that has suffered badly is the rear suspension, and most of this can be replaced easily if its rots through (incedentally how long would it take to rot through if you just left it?) I've painted my rear tubes ( a couple of years ago and still looking fine) in some dinitrol anti stone chip stuff, seems good tough stuff, but I guess only time will tell.
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I can email you a complete DTA 3d ingition and fuelling map for a 2.0 zetec on injection if you think it'll be any use to you, not sure how similar it'll be to your intended setup.
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The Big AP master cylinder is a caterham only part too, they've got it all sewn up.
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It does look like a good car at a good price, someone should buy it (not me I've already got a zetec 7)
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After closer examination, and a bit more testing (but not much more), I suspect it actually only occurs when the car has been left standing for quite a while (couple of weeks ish), I think the fuel is draining from the lines, so that when I turn it back on, it takes a while to pressurise, and squeals while the air is being forced out. Thanks all
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I need to replace the fuel filter, but cant be arsed ordering from caterham and waiting for the post , so I want to go to Halfords and get one. I've done a search and discovered that the K series cars use an MGF fuel filter, however mine is a 1997 fuel injected zetec, it has the electric fuel pump in the tank and the filter is bolted on the rear of the bulkhead. Is it likely that I have the same filter as the K cars from this description? or is there a different fuel injection filter?
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Somebody else did mention it could be air being pumped through the regulator, but I cant for the life of me imagine how this could happen with a tank full of fuel. Surely if a pipe had a leak, fuel would come out , not air get let in.
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Thats what I figured, I was just wondering if it could be something else causing the fpr to be noisy as opposed to an actual fault with the fpr. As I said the engine runs fine so I guess it must be supplying fuel at the correct pressure, maybe its a warning sign that its on the way out.
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Boing! Has nobody ever experienced this then?
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The first time the ignition is switched the fpr resonates and make a kind of screeching noise, this continues for a while after the engine is started, but dies down after a couple of minutes, it gets less and less until it stops completely. Does this indicate the fpr is on the way out or is this normal behaviour? The engine itself appears to run fine, this is on a fuel injected zetec btw.
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Chiz says in his original post that the weight is with him sat in it and a few litres of fuel, so the car comes in at aroung 500kgs
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Sounds pretty respectable, especially given the big tank, leather seats and carpets. Edited by - julians on 8 Nov 2004 21:15:52
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I'm not running a vent outlet hose, just two inlet hoses, venting is done through the cap. This is on a wet sumped engine if it makes any difference.
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I've got one, works fine for me.
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I've not compared the alcons to the caterham AP setup, but I have gone from the standard caterham small brakes/small master cylinder to the caterham big AP brakes but retaining the small master cylinder and I dont think the pedal travel is excessive. I'm sure many will disagree, but thats my view on the subject.
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Thats cheap, wonder how the engine feels at 110000miles. Mines only done 33000. I guess it proves you can make an engine that revs to over 9k and lasts for over 100000miles.
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I have 210lb rear springs on my standard bilstein dampered car, with 260lb fronts (on widetrack), and on a smooth track it handles fine. It can be a bit of a handful on a bumpy road, as the bumps cause the car to be thrown off line rather than absorbed. It is also a much harsher ride with the 210lb rears compared to the standard progressive springs. I think if you mainly use it on the road then 210lb rear is probably too stiff, but if you use it on track with slicks then 210lb rear is great.
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I think the cleaning thing is a legal requirement as opposed to a technical one. Thats all I know, I had heard that they need mega voltage to work,dont if thats true or not, must be a fairly hefty step up transformer required if thats the case
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You can have a closed cooling system like you have on a car, but instead of the air cooling the water via a radiator, the sea water cools the closed coolant water via an intercooler, if you see what I mean. Thats how my boat is set up, dont know whether it'll be up to the task of cooling 900bhp though. I've had boats in the past that just used raw sea water pumped straight through the engine with no problems though, so I reckon it'll be fine as it is. Just find out what type of engine it is , probably mercruiser, and ring them and ask. Edited by - julians on 22 Oct 2004 20:47:10