julians

I just asked for a coil pack for a 2.0 zetec, and it fitted my engine. Dont know whether I just got lucky.

stop polishing, get driving. I thought about getting mine reskinned and painted, but then I remembered that it became tatty looking in such a short space of time the first time round that it wasnt worth it for me, so I havent bothered. Its far from immaculate looking, but I cant be arsed polishing it, just prefer to track it.

I've just been through something similar with my zetec. I replaced the following:- Plugs leads coil pack crank sensor alternator fuel filter None made any difference, it turned out the be a loose earth from engine to chassis, d'oh. Never mind, at least its had a good service.

http://www.magictricks.co.uk/prodshow.asp?code=18

That statement is rubbish, just search teh forums on www.s2ki.com. A few will be down to owner neglect (low oil etc), but quite a few just popped all on their own.

I believe its normal, the honda ecu sets a lower rev limit until the engine is up to temperature. At least it does on my s2000 and a friends civic type R. The civic also puts a lower rev limit on if your in neutral.

Due to switching to a black surround & stanchions, I'm selling my old windscreen, ali surround and stanchions. They're not in the best of condition, there is a chip in the glass (not in the area swept by the blades), but it passed its MOT like this last year, and the Ali could do with a good polish to get it back up to mirror finish. The heated element works fine. I switched screens because I preferred the black look. £80 Buyer must collect from South manchester region, or I could meet somewhere nearish. Drop me a blatmail or post a reply. Cheers

One of the bookatrack caterhams suffered a lower wishbone failure, thats the only one I've heard about.

Ricks, If I cant come to an agreement with tricky dicky, I'll get in contact, but I wasnt looking to pay quite that much.

I've sent you an email. CHeers

I have the big ap front brakes on the standard master cylinder. The pedal travel is further than before, however it is still a huge improvment over the small brakes. The balance (front to rear) is hugely better, as is the feel and overall stopping power and resistance to fade/fluid overheat. You'll never get them feeling like a tin tops servo assist braking, which IMO is a very good thing.

Ok, so thats the screen sorted. Does anyone have just the stanchions in black they want to sell me?

Has anyone got a windscreen and stanchions in black they'd be willing to sell. Not too bothered if the screen has a small chip as long as it'll pass an MOT and the heated element still works correctly. Seller must be willing to post the item (I know its a pain) or live somewhere near the northwest (manchester) so I can collect. There must be a few out there who have upgraded to aeroscreen? Cheers Julian Edited by - julians on 21 Feb 2005 22:31:57

ChrisW, Dont most 'normal' battery chargers go into trickle mode once they've fully charged the battery, or is this still too much for it. I know mine does, and had assumed this was the norm, and shouldnt do any harm. The manual doesent say anything about leaving it on too long. On the other hand, the petrol generator I use has an outlet for charging a 12v battery, and the instructions for this say it does not reduce its output when the battery is fully charged, so it shouldnt be left connected for too long.

I had a similar'ish problem on my DTA'd zetec the other week, it turned out the earth from engine to chassis was loose, so the ecu got an intermittant power supply. This manifested itself as an inability to idle, adn when the laptop was hooked up to the ecu, it would oocaisionally look like the ecu had been disconnected from the laptop for half a second or so.

Why dont you plug the normal charger in for a couple of days. The manaul that came with my odysee says that voltage readings taken from the battery must be taken at least 5 hours after the battery was charged or discharged otherwise they may not be a true indication of state of charge. Edited by - julians on 18 Feb 2005 13:05:02

Cheers, will investigate this route.

If a starter motor spins but doesent turn the engine over, what is the most likely problem with it? As far as I can tell, there is no way the starter could spin without the solonoid 'pulling back' fully and therefore pushing the starter motor gear to engage with the flywheel, therefore it must be a problem with the starter motor gear itself, ie the mechnism that allows it to freewheel one way but not the other is broken. The starter motor gear does feel to be working ok if I remove the starter motor and try and turn it by hand. Am I correct in this prognosis above, or is there some maintenance I can do to 'free up' a sticking part etc? Mine doesent do this every time, just every 2 in 10 times or so.

sounds like a flat battery

Hooray, its fixed. Turned out to be a loose bolt attaching the earth strap from engine to chassis. What a pain in the arse!!

Ok, it runs now (but I havent changed anything), but only just, lots of pops and flames. Check the fuel injectors , they are working fine, nice atomisation. The symptoms are exactly the same as when my alternator failed and the battery got low on power a couple of years ago, however this time the alternator is working fine (14.2v when engine running). My current thinking is that a power connection to the ECU, or an earth strap is corroded and hence not allowing sufficient current to flow, hence giving similar symptoms to a flat battery whilst the engine is running. However the starter turns the engine over just fine, so obviously that is getting sufficient current. So tomorrow I will be cleaning every connection to the battery and every earth strap. Is my thinking sound do you think? or am I clutching at straws?

Could be, thats also something I'll be looking into today. Going to take the injectors off the throttle body and watch them to see if they squirt fuel.

The plug leads are direct replacements from halfords, so they should be fine, although I do have an old set that I can try and I've already broken one starter. Jackal, will be thoroughly checking the wiring today. I have mate coming round to help, so hopefully with another pair of eyes/hands we can get this cracked.

Fairly sure there are no air leaks, but will double check. Its not so much rough running as no running at the moment.

Its not the battery, just fully charged it and it turns the engine over at a rate of knots. I'm almost certain its electrical, dont have anything concrete to go on, just a hunch. Today I removed and inspected the wiring loom for all the engine sensors, all wires physically look ok, no nicks etc, I tested continuity on the crank sensor wire, all was well. Re routed them well away from HT (even though the routing of them hasnt changed in years). Still no success. Most of the time when trying to start it will spit and backfire and never actually catch and run , occaisonally, it will catch and run for a few revolutions before dieing Bob, could you elaborate on your last sentence? I dont quite follow, are you saying it sounds like a dead/dying ECU? This is a conclusion I'm slowly coming to, I may end up sending it back to DTA for a test/repair. Its frustrating because you only get so many attempts before the battery dies, and you have to give up and recharge it.