julians

Yes, thats true. Well it is for my zetec.

Is the only sign of a worn prop a detectable (by hand) degree of play in the UJ's. Or can it be worn but show no signs of play? I only ask as I have a loud noise/slight vibration when on a trailing throttle at high'ish speed from around the diff/prop area, but the prop shows no sign of play, so I'm presuming its a 'normal' diff noise, its made the noise for years.

Maybe we're talking about different pumps. The one on the 7 consists of 2 parts, the pump itself and the metal housing that holds the pump and allows the whole assembly to bolt to the fuel tank. the wires went into the metal housing and it was here that they had corroded. Replacing the pump itself made no difference. I guess if your entire pump assembly works when connected to a 12v supply then its not the same problem as mine.

I very recently had exactly the same problem. I had voltage on the wire at the pump, but the pump itself didnt work. I eventually traced it to a corroded live wire in the little resin block on the outside of the pump housing. It was no longer connected to the terminal where it enters the pump. Edited by - julians on 11 Jan 2006 14:56:38

My new fuel tank ( last month) didnt have a vent pipe on the top of the fuel tank.

Cant give you any sort of 'qualified' technical answer, I can only tell you what I have done. I run my zetec on castol gtx 5w-30 semi synth for the past 5 years , a lot of trackdays and its still going strong today , 20000 miles later, same oil pressure as when new. I dont know of any fully mineral 5w-30 either, I ran mine in on the castrol semi synth stuff.

I have the same problem (garage without power half a mile away). I used to use a big 100amp hour leisure battery, which was ok'ish at powering 12v strip lights for a good few hours, once the battery was flat I'd take it home and recharge it. However one day I saw a 900w generator in B&Q for £99, so I bought that and havent looked back. Can charge my cordless tools from it, run most regular tools on it and run lights. It is a little noisy, bt thats not a problem for me. I beleive makro do then for £50ish + vat

"Making my duratec 200 look a tad expensive " But lightweight?

I have the same issue (Garage is .5 mile from the house with no power etc), I just disconnect the earth lead from the battery. Battery has stayed fully charged for a couple of month now. I do however use one of the sealed batteries (odyssee type) which I remember hearing hold their charge better than a traditional lead acid battery.

Cheers Faulds, was going to post this in TOP for your perusal, but that would have broken my golden rule about not posting there during work time.

good point about the angle steel, I may as well whilst its out.

Does anyone know the diameter of the threaded bar thats used to hold the petrol tank in place. When I removed my old tank, mine was so rusted that it snapped, so I need to replace it. I have the options of M6 , M8, M10 or M12 diameter.

Ah I see, if thats the case then it wont do for me, as my unit has failed where the wires enter the resin block on the outside of the bracket assembly.Ie the pump itself appears fine. Edited to add: I guess I should just try and re solder the wires back into place, but it looks quite fiddly. I'll have a crack at that before I find a new pump. Edited by - julians on 5 Dec 2005 21:33:59

Still no email. I have sent you one with my mobile number in it, so if you get it can you give me a call. Otherwise post on here with your number and I'll call you. I dont quite understand when you say you needed the bracket for the uprated version. I've just taken the tank out and removed the defective pump and it all seems to be one piece, there doesent appear to be any bracket to speak of. I wonder if we're talking about the same part. Mine looks exactly as per this picture on caterhams website. http://www.caterham.co.uk/onlinestores/merchandise/store/images/parts/fuelpump.jpg

Rob, Ok you're on. Still not got your mail. But will send you one now with my details etc

Rob, Not received it yet, could just be my email being slow, will wait and see.

Are the prop shaft failures less likely on a dedion car , given that the prop is relatively static in terms of up,down/side to side movement compared to a live axle car? What were the symptoms of the prop failure?

Thanks for the responses, After a quick google search, I;ve also found these guys:- www.fuelsystem.co.uk who list a part number for the caterham pump of ITP144 (or AC6443327). My current tank had a leak, which I repaired a while ago, but seeing as the tank has to come out anyway, I think I'll take the opportunity to replace it. I've sent Rob an email, but if I dont get an answer by tomorrow, I'll come back to you Mark as I could do with getting this back on the road ASAP. Anyone got any good ideas on how to drain the tank with the minimum fuss? Is it possible to syphon the caterham tank? I guess it must be once you;ve removed the filler neck.

This has been on the car a while (since new really), and the 6 (or 8) screws are looking pretty rusty, not sure they'll come out without drilling and possibly damaging the seals, I'll have a go. Dont suppose you know of a quick and easy way of draining the tank? Just before it packed up I'd filled it with 23 litres of optimax.

Will drop him a line , cheers. If he's already sold it, I'll get back to you. Dont suppose you know the part numbers for the gaskets etc?

Anyone know if the standard fit in-tank fuel pump for a fuel injected car (of vintage circa 1996) is an off the shelf part , or whether its a caterham only item? If its off the shelf does anyone happen to have a part number or description so I can get one from the local motorfactors? Mine failed today at donington, it gave no warning of its failure (at least not that I could tell), it managed to get me all the way there from manchester, then when I went to restart the car to go out on track there was no fuel pump. The car doesent have an immobiliser, and I ran some wires directly from the battery to the pump, but it still didnt whir ( i can usually hear it whirring quite loudly), which leads me to suspect the pump has failed. Is this a reasonably common failure with the in-tank pumps? I've had a quick search of the archives andonly revealed problems with the external in-line type pumps.

Werent all the superlights weights as published by caterham supposed to be what they weighed if you just ordered a 'default' car and specified no options. Hence if you ordered a superlight R with Screen and weather gear it ended up weighing more than originally stated by caterham. Having said that I'm sure that their weights were rounded down to give the cars a nice round BHP per ton figure.

If you use the weights in the fluke motorsport database to subtract the various components to arrive at a figure for the bare engine , it comes in at around 110-115kgs which sounds about right to me for a zetec and tallies with other statements of this type of engines weight.

Starter motor and alternator included too I presume?

posting on behalf of jackal who is juggling a few parts around for his winter rebuild. Mint passenger side Kevlar Tillet is on ebay as are his other bits and pieces: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4590684364