The Outcast

Absolutley correct. Positive ground depends upon proper circuit functioning, the transmission of negative ions by retention of the visible spectral manifestation known as "smoke". Smoke is the thing that makes electrical circuits work; we know this to be true because every time one lets the smoke out of the electrical system, it stops working. This can be verified repeatedly through empirical testing. When, for example, the smoke escapes from an electrical component (i.e., say, a Lucas voltage regulator), it will be observed that the component stops working. The function of the wire harness is to carry the smoke from one device to another; when the wire harness "springs a leak", and lets all the smoke out of the system, nothing works afterwards. Starter motors were frowned upon in British Automobiles for some time, largely because they consume large quantities of smoke, requiring very large wires. It has been noted that Lucas components are possibly more prone to electrical leakage than Bosch or generic Japanese electrics. Experts point out that this is because Lucas is British and all things British leak. British engines leak oil, shock absorbers, hydraulic forks and disk brakes leak fluid, British tires leak air and the British defense establishment leaks secrets...so, naturally, British electronics leak smoke.

There is no doubt DJ is correct BUT if your looking for an upgrade path Oily is the way to go If you want a complete change with endless power Go Duratech

Ah but for the old days. Come back Bruce all is forgiven It's SOO nice to have an Arch inside sticker on the se7en.

Have a query then Dave not all manual tensioner Ks use 143s I've seen a few with 145s so is there a better ruling[perhaps based on which head is fitted]

On the scuttle there is a spade connector with a purple wire check the male and emale spade that the crimp is sound on the copper wire and not on the insulation also that the male /female joint is clean and tight.this is the feed to the ECU any problem there will give symptoms you describe

1) Is this primarily a problem with older engines, or is the EU3 equally problematic? No but even later EU2 whee OK 2) Should HGF occur, is there a modified gasket that has been produced to address the problem? Yes there is a new gasket But I wouldn't change it until you have to 3) I'm in the habit of ensuring that the engine of any vehicle that I'm driving is up to full operating temperature before I put my foot down. I also carry out regular under-bonnet checks for early signs of problems (in my 1700 SS I would have a visual check, including fluid levels etc, every day before using it). Are there other precautions that I should be taking in a K-Series Seven? Check for leaks in cooling system particularly near club foot /head interface Leaks must be found and Coolant replaced [not with water] also all air removed 4) Are there preventative modifications available to decrease the chances of HGF? Deck the block and improve liner heights also replace crap plastic head dowels with steel [they will be supplied with any new gasket] 5) Am I'm being over sensitive? I'd really appreciate any positive feedback that anyone can give about the K-Series Sevens. Not really BUT I've owned a K for over a decade with NO HGF

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No real problem BUT if your planning on DTHTB for inlet have you thought about exhaust They go hand in hand NO point in trying to improve gas flow in if it can't get out And you will need an Emerald remap afterwards.

It's the short answer you can't as they are not torqued in first place just think about it they are stretch bolts. you don't have a final torque figure. 😬

Emerald is programmable for in and out

check location of gear box in tunnel might be something touching

Which engine???/?

You are probably aware that the MT have appealed for Tech items for LF so there is a great opportunity. It would have to be written with NO criticism or apportionment of Blame to CC but as a maintenance check item. With lots of pictures showing owners what to look for and photos of the removal and replacement procedure. This would reach every member of the club, and would not attract any negative interest against the Club from CC. 😶‍🌫️ So how about it Ian your in best position for such a project and have the literary prowess to so do??? 😬

I think the most annoying aspect is that a member was summonsed and found guilty of careless driving as a result of a Tube failure [which can be catastrophic if it happens as you hit a bump at speed.] Mine certainly went that way and put me in the ditch BUT I was lucky as it was an empty road, In traffic the result could be nasty. I can understand CC keeping a low profile after all most failures are age related and well outside any warranty there where thousands of cars fitted with the unbuttressed tubes so the expense could have very very bad consequences for such a small manufacturer and I suppose if driven very carefully some tubes may last the distance. But as time progresses we are seeing more and more on this forum and obviously have no idea how many are failing elsewhere with folk who have no idea of the history and presume it's an isolated incident. I'm on my third tube now as after my original failure CC admitted that the replacement batch where all faulty and BRUCE had to replace all of them. ☹️

From what you've described DVA will have removed the IACV [it can be fitted at cost] BUT without it getting enough air at Idle via throttle stop screws cab be problematic at full running temp, as speed will then be too high. Speak to Dave he is a very reasonable guy, and I'm very very sure he'll sort you out. Most Ks on after-market TBs have no IACV so there has to be a compromise. 😶‍🌫️