jerrypike

alternatively you can see one fitted to my SLR jerry

darren have been using my optimate charger (pretty much the same) on my gel batery for 2 years without problems i'll have to look out for your SLR jerry

dick goodwood is notorious for it's noise meter and last year i struggled with the 105 limit for a sprint with my SLR looking forward to the result with my big raceco this year, which has been under 100 for the cursory checks at other race circuits this year 😬 interestingly, had no problems with drive by problem with 105dB days at g'wood is they are: rare expensive limit track time as they only have 5 cars on track at a time,cf 10 for 98dB days this is to do with the noise meter feed to the council which has a funnel effect to collate the total noise "pollution" for the local residents who bought a house near an active airfield and race circuit jerry

never seen any locking nuts for barnby split rims they're more than enough hassle to change with the standard nuts jerry

dick only matters if you are sprint/racing trackday use doesn't require FIA belts or in date my passenger belts are time expired but as they are rarely fitted or used won't change them 'til the driver belts expire, then i'll swap them over jerry

dick congratulations 😬 best solution is the arch endurance tank which has a big screw top under the O/S rear hood. unfortunately it occupies most of the boot, but does give huge range to answer your other thread, surely dry sump is the only answer with goodwood on the doorstep i'm going to be working the top paddock at FoS friday: do drop by jerry

hi ruff trust all fitted well yes, it was a strange and unusual problem, haven't heard of any similar, but i think it was due to the cable coaxial shielding giving way- could see little blue electrical arc at the end jerry

sounds similar to the symptoms i had when the cable from the flywheel sensor had started to fail in part of the insulation (metal screened?) and sent a 13,000rpm message to the ECU with instant fuel shut-off very tough to find- required clever man with computer and rolling road to log spike on screen and see cable arcing (it was dark by then ☹️) suggest looking at the cable very carefully and watching it whilst running engine in the situation it occurs hope you fix it jerry

adam assume the local expensive ones are at AHC? jerry jerry

there are two temp. senders bolted into the water rail, i think the small one is caterham specific, the other is a generic part (which i have a spare for). unfortunately i expect it's the small you need as they break jerry

richard were the other conditions close enough to make your times comparable? i changed my diff. to lower ratios, but also made some other changes so the quicker times may be the result of other factors david trouble is you can't easily change them to run back-to-back comparisons, but purely for sprint times in UK i think you'd be better off with the lower ratio diff jerry

charles thanks- sure it must be imperial- i was just given the metris "equivalent" when i enquired. worked ok though jerry

i'm slightly confused as the top bolt for the rear shock mount on my SLR ('99 de dion) is a 9mm hex drive are we talking about the same bolt 🤔 i got a set of hex drives that mount into a socket so a torque wrench can be attached from AHC : tool shop in camberley and farnham. it works well for me jerry

depends on how removable i've got an SLR cage with MOG L/H door and tonneau- 4 bolts for the tonneau, 2 for the half door for the R/H side i use a caterham half door with 1 bolt & 2 cable ties i know it's a strange arrangement but it has to accomodate my non-bendy wrist 😬 jerry

shouldn't that be pedantic and it is pissing down 🤔 😬 which it is ☹️ alex i think if you coast down hill in a 7 at 50mph (engine off or out 😬) it's over 80dB because the aerodynamics are so good jerry

some dry sump plates have had a drain plug added to avoid the risk of stripping the 4 bolts holding the plate on you do need the big diameter catch tray and a smaller one for the oil filter opinion varies on need to drop the ds pipe off as well; guess it depends on how often you change your oil my cars so pampered (service wise) i could probably re-use the oil in a tin top for a year 😬 jerry

banana is that an "s" or a "t" missing from your post 😬 🤔 stu if you have the time and money, i'd keep the 1900 in the car and build up an original spec VHPD motor as a spare/original if you think it'll maximise the value at sale time (perish the thought) david's 1900 (albeit 260+) hasn't been without it's problems, i suspect that a K @ 128bhp/l will need a refresh at some stage i'm still getting (gradually) quicker in my SLR despite the standard engine spec (177bhp) and have resisted the temptation to get a big spec K or duratec(which would wreck the "originality") so far 😬 nice quandry to have jerry

alex david ward had a very smart MoTec but swapped to emerald after his DVA upgrade for mapping ease don't know if he's still got it but might do the job if you can wait then autosport show trade/comp days are best place to speak to people who really know what their kit can do MoTec have had a wallet wilting but highly desirable exhibition last couple of years jerry

may be worth searching archive for thread as someone got a glass shop to cut a replacement screen of correct glass to fit the surround as it's flat- can't remember the cost but less than caterham screen charles don't expect the MSA would allow 5 days grace on the licence- far too reasonable jerry

norman I've got some MB mags that probably should be tested However, Antony's recent thread on this suggests that mike offers this service at a pretty reasonable price and would be in position to do any refurb required. any idea as to comparative price, what service is available? i guess most won't need any work, but it would be a pain if they tested them but you then had to send them back to mike for repair so, interested to know some detail jerry where are they? the prospect of delivering rather than sending them would appeal Edited by - jerrypike on 3 Oct 2006 20:23:24

evodunc what emerald goodies: if only 3D engine mapping then it's very unlikely to be 30 bhp more than having a very nice man from MoTec do exactly that on a rolling road. i have to say it was a very interesting experience but wallet excision rather than biopsy 😬 jerry

congratulations on your purchase, which you will enjoy hugely however, wrt bhp produced by the SLR motor: 1. all depends on the rolling road 2. don't think any really make 190bhp as supplied with the cat fitted 3. 175 is probably more realistic 4. cam timing from factory is variable- until it's checked you won't know if verniers will make a difference 5. standard mapping has hiccups and lots of overrun popping and banging- amusing for the crowd but doesn't help drivability 6. i had my engine completely rebuilt to standard SLR spec (other than reliability upgrades-metal dowels, HG) by QED ( *thumbup*rebuilt on time and on budget) and they bench tested it at 175 - which they said is normal for a standard SLR on their dyno. i then had the engine re-mapped on BHP dyno as QED don't support Motec ECU. Optimax, no cat, caterham 4-2-1 mid pipe. End result 177bhp but very driveable. Also engine mapper was able to tell me that cam timing was correct and therefore nothing to gain from verniers. initially i was a bit disappointed compared to all the 200+ reported on here but accept that the dyno you are attached to makes all the difference and it's allowed me to race in endurance series reasonably competitively without further rebuild all the above is my personal experience over 5 years ownership SLR 61 😬 jerry Edited by - jerrypike on 25 Sep 2006 17:59:58

yes, previously discussed in archive somewhere i used chemical metal, with a small section of coat hanger wire for the dowel (cheaper than CF 😬)- no problems past 3 years jerry

as dave says, you need a much longer rod, but mark where the rod comes to when its fully down to the bottom of the sump, then you wont get caught out by ledges en route. then mark your depth up from the bottom i actually take the bolt out of the tower before i kill the engine-do use gloves 😬 jerry

YHM jerry