Z3MCJez
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Everything posted by Z3MCJez
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Although I always believed that mine was 36l, it doesn't actually take more than 32 from empty (as in won't run the car empty). Jez
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I answered the wrong question. I answered the question as to what temperature causes the damper to cease operation. I think your original question can be properly interpreted in this way, albeit that I can read it differently ... Jez
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Simon You are suggesting that it didn't reach equilibrium. But that it ceased effective operation at a certain body temperature. My dampers have plastic sleeves. They would melt at some point in the 150-200C range. Presumably the oil seals will fail at some point in that region, so I'm going to go for 140C. Jez
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My batteries always go 5 months without charging over the winter. If it's not being drawn and it won't last 5 weeks, its knackered. Jez
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Ian Just got your message. Will try and call in the morning. Jez
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Ian I have 4 available - happy to sell 2 - which did one race weekend at Rockingham (testing, qually, 2 x 30 min races). The fronts, in particular, are in good tread condition, but they've sat in the shed now for nearly 2 years. They are the last of the "good" CR500s. Make me an offer! Could bring them to the Silverstone Graduates race meeting this weekend if that helps. Jez
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Having bought lots, the going rate for straight but not perfect wheels is £75. BUT this was prior to the new wheels being launched. There SHOULD be a reduction in price but the wheels are scarce. Jez
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What is the first sign of engine oil pressure failure ?
Z3MCJez replied to Birkin S3 ZA.'s topic in TechTalk
Quoting Birkin S3 ZA.: Well SM25 is the closest 😶🌫️ The answer was bearing failure/ engine knock, out of 25 students none of us got it right. There reasoning was the white metal coating is designed to melt with oil starvation leading to engine knock, then the crank can be saved and the bearings replaced. I think the person who wrote the question spent his days casting and scraping white metal bearings, the question and answer would then be relevant then but not in 1977. Chris The first sign is bearing failure. Brilliant - that's useful. Full engine rebuild / replacement required. I would have thought low oil level or leaking oil would have been a better *FIRST* sign. Jez -
Charles - That of course is true. And if you get even more aggressive 1144s at the rear are inadequate. But my pads don't work when cold and I wouldn't advocate too aggressive a set up for a road car. Jez
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That's right. Mintex 1144 all round will be overbraked at the rear. Jez
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I run my 2.8T family tank with tyres at 50psi. I run my sports car (1.3T) at 30psi. I run my Caterham (600kg) at 18psi. It all makes sense really! Jez
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Interesting history, but an 2009 Academy car has the "uprated" hubs. And they will still wear out in 2 years of use on track (say 10-12 track/test days per year, if driven at the limit). EDIT: Sorry - that came across as somewhat curmudgeonly. It wasn't meant to! Jez Edited by - Z3MCJez on 29 Apr 2014 12:27:29
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When the bearing goes, it's usually the hub which has gone on an Academy car, as the bearing (steel) is harder than the hub (ally). You need to replace both. Clearly you can kill the bearing first if it isn't greased. On a race car, you can get over a season out of them (and probably more like 2, depending on the tyres you're running). But replace hub with bearing ... Jez, whose car has been frequently kerbed in performing the above analysis
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Like they are on my Titan belts supplied by Meteor. But I guess that doesn't really help you! Jez
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An unbent LHS Sigma engine mount is not something you find unless it is new. IME anyway. Have a BTTT. Jez
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Applying number plate sticker to nose cone and making it neat = recipe for frustration. Jez
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The nylon bolts are almost always too strong to save the rivnuts. The benefit of nylon nuts is that they don't get rusted in to the rivnuts, so you can usually get them out again. If you want nylon bolts to break in a contact, then you need to saw half way through them first. Personally, I have gone the other way now, and use all 10 bolts without sawing - most small "knocks" when racing now break the edge of the wing (which can be taped up) rather than remove it. Jez
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Don't run the wrong oil in a Supersport. And make sure that it's kept topped up if you're going to drive it hard. I believe that Caterham have taken one of the solutions proposed by a race team to deal with the big end bearing failures that come from oil starvation, which in turn comes from oil being in the wrong place in the engine (or more often, having made an escape through the dipstick which is no longer in place). Until then, run it on max and make sure it's breathing slightly in hard track use. Jez
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What do the metal clip/shims do in a rear brake caliper?
Z3MCJez replied to Roger Ford's topic in TechTalk
Roger - I ran without them for about 3 years and it was fine. However, now I have pads without the springs, to allow them to move easier, and I've got these back in again to help with location. I say that, of course, but I didn't change my pads last time! Jez -
A scratch on the wheel rim behind the nut is the last of my worries for the wheel condition. I tend to find that I can scratch them up much better on kerbs and other cars at 100mph! Jez
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I can definitely get them apart again, if I want to - they're not bonded together firmly (although I'm impressed that you've got an ultrasonic cleaner classic1952!). What I'm not clear about is the benefit of having the wheel nut fall into two pieces when I take it off at the circuit! Jez
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I have got what Pooh lists. I've actually got a spare unopened one that I just bought for just over £20 as I thought I'd lost my old one. But I have now found it, so if you want that for £20 then I'll eat the postage to get it to you. Or I could send you the old proven one and I'll take the risk on the new one! Jez
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SOLD subject to payment.
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I have a pair of Caterham- harness belts. Drivers side is 6-point race harness, with passenger side 4-point (although if it has the hoops, which I think it might, then I have a spare pair of crutch straps). Driver's side has been in the car for 5 years. Passenger side was in the car for about 100 miles in 2009 and has sat in the cupboard ever since. Everything works as it should. Doesn't come with bolts to fix. Dated 2013, so not in date for racing. £120 posted. Jez
