Eccles

It may be possible but most of the ECU (including sensors) will be running at 5V or less I think. I would also think that the regulator inside the ECU is designed to cope with drops in the supply, certainly looks like you have got a cell gone/going on the battery though. Having said that I have noticed that the TPS value does change a little from ignition on compaired to engine running (10mV) so maybe it's not that imune to changes in voltage. Sorry it's a bit of a vague non answer but it would definately be worth looking at further and ruling it out. Ivan

I've got one, but it's at home so I'll post it this evening. Regards Ivan P.S. My nearside front caliper has now decided to pop a seal so my testing has stopped

ARRRGH!! It never rains but it pours Hope it gets sorted soon - keep us all posted. Regards Ivan

Ahhh Ha!! I seem to be getting somewhere I remade the earth under the dash where it joins onto the wiper motor barcket (two hefty leads direct onto the chassis) I also put a piece of 20sqmm stuff from the bat -ve to a tapped M8 bolt hole just by it. Took it out for a run and it was definitly somewhat better, unfortunately time was not on my side and I wasn't able to re-calibrate the throttle etc. so that is the next step. Rik, do you know if your earth was the point under the dash where it joins the chassis or one of the three(?) where the earths branch out into other clusters of earth wires? Cheers Ivan

Good to hear that they do run very well, so if any of you lot wake to hear the clinking of spanners during the night, don't worry, go back to sleep, it's just the wind 😬

Totally agree Peter. There must be something wrong with our cars like dodgy earths, sensors or something as there must be plenty of people who are more than happy with theirs. Maybe when all else has been eliminated they should give the ECU unlock codes to Steve at Track 'N' Road (who I hear is familiar with the MBE setup) and give us all a free RR session to set us up once and for all. I tried several new sensors today but with no improvement, I think I will head back to the earths again and re-check. Out of interest, which of you Sigma150 owners are completely happy with the running of your cars, hot running and warm-up phase? Cheers Ivan

Hi all, Right, lets try and quantify where I have got to (or haven't as the case maybe)... I have balanced the TBs as per the CC instruction sheet and this has made no difference. I have logged some data here to show the juddering that I am getting. I then managed to log some more data which showed the MAP sensor readings and could see that this started wobbling around before the engine RPM etc. did here so am wondering if this could be part of the problem for me. The only other thing that I have noticed is that the air temp sensor reading was more based on the temp of the air filter back-plate rather than the temp of the air around it. I don't know if this could be an issue or not but I guess that the ECU map was originally set-up with the sensor here. But, I did re-fit the sensor with an O-ring either side of it to try and insulate it a bit and when I took it out for a drive it was an amount better. According to the log it was only about 2C (26C to 24C) cooler so me thinks it was a coincidence. I've got the day off again tomorrow to have another little fiddle so any ideas of which way to go now would be greatly appreciated. First off I was going to try a new MAP sensor. Cheers Ivan

Hmmm, interesting!! I've just had my map updated to the latest one and it is bl00dy awful on my engine, lumpiness, flat spots, worst between 60 and 80MPH in top (3000ish to 3500ish RPM). The cold section of the map now works like a dream, but the rest....... I'd be interested to hear the outcome of your problem as it might point me in the direction of mine Don't get me wrong, I'm not having a go at CC as I'm sure they test these maps thoroughly before they release them but it's making me think more and more that there is something quirky/amiss with my engine. Would be grateful to hear how it goes Rik. Ivan

Hi Steve, You're welcome. It hasn't caused any other problems, as of yet anyway! As Paul mentions the hole in the block is threaded so it has to go that way round. Regards Ivan

Hi Steve, Have a look here. Hope this helps (mine is a 150 too). Regards Ivan

I'll just pop out to the garage with my camera and try and take a photo of mine. Ivan

Had this problem a week or two back when i tried to fill up at Tesco (serves me right really), so gave up and went to BP instead. The Tesco nozzles have recently been changed to ones with a much larger flangy bit on the spout.

Agreed Toby, mine is really good since the upgrade, I must have a dodgy sensor or connection that is causing my cold running issue. Not heard of anything on the 125s, getting 36Mpg with an amount of hooning, how's that compare?

Hi, Would think the re-map of the ECU and re-setting of the throttles will sort out what your experiencing. Thanks Ivan

Scoops, Mine used to have the flat spot at 3500RPM but that was cured when the car was re-setup at CC using the latest map in mid Sept. Is your cold start problem like mine (even after re-map), bl00dy lumpy (feeling like it is cutting-out) for the first little bit then gradually getting better until it gets up to temp? What's slightly suspicious is that it happens around 1800RPM ish, half that of the 3500 problem. If so could you let me know what they find out please as, while it's livable with, it's still very annoying!!! I think it is part of this cold start mapping for particular engines out there. The only trouble is you have only one shot at seeing what it is before the engine is warm and then you have to wait a several of hours before you can try again. Regards Ivan

From what I recal the 40 second thing is always there along with a gradually changing map acording to the temperature. From cold, the engine starts on a cold run map (set of maps) until the engine is up to 60C, this is then gradually turned off until the engine reaches 80C when the normal running map(set of maps) is used. I have found the engine always lumpy until it reaches 80C (quite horrendously so when <50C). So I guess it could also be that the temperature is dropping just enough to put you into the warm-up region when the engine doesn't need it. Out of interest Windy, does yours run really badly until it has got warm or just after the kind of stop you mention above? Regards Ivan

Hi, The ECU has a sort of electronic choke that runs the engine on a richer mix/map for the first 40 seconds (ISTR). Maybe this is cutting in when it doesn't need to. Regards Ivan

Thanks for all the kind offers gents but I am after having a custom logo made for my car (Roadsport 150). I recognised the font as being the same but have never seen it on CCs website so assumed that it was custom made for all of you. Now to get back on topic, between posts I was out for a blat and I was getting some good crackling and banging on both the upshifts and down shifts - it was magic!!! 😬 Cheers Ivan

Hi Chris, I think an air leek is the most likely cause or over fueling on the overrun. Don't think it does any harm and does rather good 😬 Slight hijack, where did you get the logo made for the back of your car, only I would like a custom one made for me. Cheers Ivan

Could be the lead to the solenoid?? Ivan

Not sure about Halfrauds but the Ford part number is 1455760 and cost me £5.36 including the Vodka And Tonic from Ford. There were two versions available, one about 6" long, the other about 3". The 3"er (what I got) is the new version and would be completly hidden in the engine bay when fitted to the modine oil cooler. Regards Ivan

Has anyone had this latest re-map done yet?? I understand it involves a re-setting of the throttle bodies. Just wondering what it's like as I haven't had the chance to have mine done yet Regards Ivan

I hear that a number of people had problems with their TPS wired wrongly (can't comment on mine as CC had my car for the first start/set-up). Have a search through BC I'm sure the info's here somewhere. Good luck Ivan

The light on the left is an engine/ECU warning light. Not sure under what conditions it will come on though. Ivan

don't hold your breath Old Git, this mod is for the gauge only. Exfordy sent me a mail that he recieved from CC saying that they are not planning to do 'owt about the pump, so you'll still only have a 7ish gallon tank. Ivan