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Everything posted by Eccles
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Hi Pete, You're on the list Cheers Ivan
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Hi Jim, Of course, one pair of superlight brackets added to the list Ivan
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Oh, yes, they were the smaller ones BTW David Ivan
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Thanks Iain, David. Definitely looks like I will go for a batch of 10 with fasteners I'll perhaps put a dedicated thread in the Bulk Buy section with a couple more photos. Which versions would you all like? Cheers Ivan
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Hi Jonathan, Yes a good idea, so, including the fasteners they would be £30 a pair but if I was able to get together an order for 10 sets than the price would come down to £26 per set (either design). Probably best if I stick to including nuts and screws to keep it simple so if anyone is interested please PM me and we'll get the ball rolling. Ivan
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Hi Grumpy, Sorry, only just noticed your post. I can get them made by a fairly local printer (to me) in nylon and the results are pretty good.... /sites/default/files/images/users/4288/31679119354_b2b61cafd1_z_0.jpg They work out to be £29 (inc UK P+P) a pair not including any screws or nuts or the hinge pins. Ivan
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Like this .... https://caterhamparts.co.uk/hoses/3680-hose-engine-to-radiator-sigma-black-silicone.html?search_query=hose+sigma&results=12 Ivan
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I had the original ones fitted for the SVA test but never liked them, always thought they were far too clunky so switched over to the SPA Design mirrors which I fitted onto the stanchions. The pain of this was the not being able to open the sidescreen properly (and passengers who didn't realise) so I designed this mount which replaces part of the hinge and mounts the mirror so that the sidescreen could open all the way without drilling any more holes in it. I'm pleased with the results but a pair take about 6+ hours to print!! Hopefully you had an easier time setting them up than I did Robert as the hole for the allen key in the mirror was a last minute addition for your set!! Ivan
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I had the same but at around 2.5K RPM, I ended up taking the wiper mechanism apart and putting a load of grease on the plastic toothed push rod inside - now nice and quiet The car still resonates at 2.5K but that's another story. Ivan
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Mine has individual bleed screws on the TBs but they are a pig to get to as they are under the fuel rail. From recollection it is a 2mm allen key for teh bleed screw and a bent 8mm ring spanner for the lock nut. Ivan
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The wiring can also be problematic as the wires bend quite sharply at the bottom of the connector because of the coolant pipe. Might be worth a check. Ivan
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I think the important bit is prop before diff as you can't get the prop/diff flange down the tunnel if the diff is in. :)
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Thanks guys, and I know that feeling all to well Peter!! Ivan
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Might sound daft but, do you split the engine and gearbox first and leave the gearbox in the car when changing the flywheel or is it an all out job? Cheers Ivan
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Thanks Tom, looks good. Think this thread has just cost me a rolling road session re-map the engine! I've suddenly got the urge to iron out any drivability lumpyness and see what else is at the top end. Thanks all Ivan
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Thanks Mike that's great. Looks like I am OK with my 110 on the inlet as I have the dual throttle bodies. I never realised that you could change cam timing that much without totally upsetting the performance. Did you have your car mapped by the two Steve's, and if you don't mind me asking, what were the power figures after setting up? Ivan
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That's the thread, I'm the other one who's been given values of 110/110 for the 150 cams but wasn't sure if they are the same cams and am trying to find out what others know and set theirs to. He's certainly does and he's getting good power too. Just been trying to figure out if I have been given the original specs and the thinking has changed for these cams to 111/118 or if the cams themselves have changed at some point and is the Supersport cam the same as the 150 cam Maybe I'm just thinking too much!
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Does anyone have details of the cam timings for the 125/140/150 Sigma engines? I'm involved on a thread on Pistonheads about this and was wondering if anyone here has any info to see if I have my 150 set wrongly? Ta muchly - Ivan
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Thanks very much for that, bit out on the thoughts for the pot voltage but it's been a long time since I last set it
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Hi Chris, What do you set your pot to? 1.37V comes to mind with between 4-5 on the synchronometer for the flow at tickover. I used to have a workshop notice for this but seem to have lost it somewhere over the years :-( Do you know when the latest map was released? Cheers Ivan
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Hi Steve, If you're going to change the floors, would it be worth changing to lowered floors whilst you at it? Obviously depending on if you want to sit a bit lower (about to swap mine to lowered ones). Ivan
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I just had the same problem and Avon were very keen to have the tyre back to have a look at it. I am waiting on a result from the inspection (which all has to be done through Caterham Cars as Avon don't sell direct). Ivan
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Hi, It fits up at the top of the tank, I noticed the two holes too, couldn't figure out what they were for so dobbed some silicone sealant around where it touches the tank to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. I know what you mean about it being enough, but I think it goes from not fit to just fit!! Ivan
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Do you have the 1/2" think piece of honeycomb ali between the tank and back chassis rails as well? Mine didn't have this to start with and I had trouble fitting the boot floor. This extra piece will move the tank 1/2" forward and 3/8" down on the runners. Ivan
