Hanns Per

thks breather is clear I will push the seal 2mm further in but it was reall striking how loose the axle stub is in the diff.

I checked all the possibilities You brought up. Although the surface on axle looked fine treated it to become even better. The sealing sits 9mm inward from the outer edge also fine and it still leaked BUT today I noticed that I can push the axle up and down about 1mm each side when I hold it on the rear axle joint next to the diff.In my other caterham this is not possible. Which means the stub which goes into the diff is too small and I need new S3 rear axels. Its an 2001 S3 which I bought second hand a few years ago. Are there / had there been rear axels with different specifications i.e. slightly smaller axle stubs?

Thank You for all feedback I will work on it and report back HP

checked the surface of the driveshaft > ok, changed the sealing in the diff 2 times with different position still leaking, installed a non leaking diff from my other Caterham still leaking!! What could it be thks for help Hanns Per

att. some pictures of my modification. I wanted to have a lighter caliper and one who fits well within a 13" rim. Before I sanded off the rips of the original Volkswagen caliper to fit into 13" rim but this was not satisfactory for me. The pad is a Ferodo FCP809H its 45mm high and covers the max. possible diameter of the disc. The handbrake has the short levers for the pads and is not so effective as the one with the VAG caliper. I made the mounting holes M10x1,25 myself. The handbrake cable is different than the original one so I used 15cm from the original one to maintain the adjustment possibility. Did drive now 1000 km and everything works well. Pedal feels firmer than before. I also modified the wheel speed sensor to an hall effect sensor for connection the 9A9 MBE. Sensor is a GS100701 ad a new sensorring Maxgear 27-0319. I took off each 2nd tooth of the ring to be close in line with the sensor specs. sorry for the pictures turned to the side.

just talked to Kolben Dümpert and they confirmed they do not have manufacturers reference numbers, they only sell after dimensions. If You intend to contact Dümpert here is my invoice number and date 210318 dated 08.02.2021 which You can use as reference.

first thought I had was it needs to be a gudgeon pin because of the surface hardness which is needed to carry the load of the needle rollers. Then I asked a friend who restores historic motorcycles an he gave me the address of this company: Dümpert Kolben https://www.gelbeseiten.de/gsbiz/6a9e9c0a-8220-4c28-8177-71e81cf140f4 The company has no website. I gave them a call and asked for a gudgeon pin with the desired dimensions and the lady on the phone told me what she has 19mm OD bolt which is a few 1/10th of mm longer than the original Caterham bolt. I do not know if this is connected to a part number and I do not think so. They carry thousands of bolts and pistons for historic vehicles and I think once upon a time it was not so sophisticated with partnumbers :-) hope this helps Hanns Per

I would be more concerned about freezing of the spigot and bronze bearing. Bronze bearings (oillite) are reasonable cheap and not difficult to replace. If your spigots are still OK then this might be the easiest and cheapest solution and presumably good for the next 20.000 km or so. Good luck Hanns Per

I always had problems with the rocker bearing. first after 3 years in 2009 with approx 45K km. The spigot and the oilbush (sintered bronze) got stuck. Thereafter I fiddled stupidly along greasing until found out this winter greasing oilbushes is wrong. I looked for alternatives also because these bushes are more suited for rotational and less for oscillating movements. I found needle roller bearing and this is what Install this winter: full complement open end needle roller bearings B 1212 (ID 3/4 OD 1 inch width 3/4) 3 pcs. per rocker from Koyo but also available from others when you search, as a spigot I use a piston bolt OD 19mm and length 68mm, thie inner diameter of the piston bolt is somewhat larger thant the original piston bolt I made a sleve from a 0.3mm aluminum sheet. As a thrust washer I use Iglidur W300 WTI-1220-01 washers ID 3/4 https://www.igus.at/product/131. look forward how it works our this summer questions welcome Hanns Per on the left You see the damaged spigots and removed bushes and an new bushes with new spigot in it and the bolt

think I could identify the bearing Bowman oilite AJ 1216-20 (3/4 x 1 x 1 1/4) now I need to find the spigot

What to do with a presumably worn out bearing of the rocker rocker assembly (200.000km). Did anyone think about alternatives such as Delrin bushes or needle roller bearings? Or is it the simpliest to replace the oilite bush and spigot where could one buy this? thks Hanns Per

Thank you gentlemen, So cutting off made the difference, it was in position in a minute. on the question of different rear lids have now 5 diffs and I never noticed a difference on the rear lids. Just looked again.

The 2 diffs are exactly the same I just measured. The one I try to mount previously was in a S3.

The left one I got in and out relatively easy the right one I cant get in. they have the same dimensions. the left one is a 3.6 with a titan LSD the right one a 3.6 with a ZF LSD

I got this diff and took the internals out to make it lighter and tried with my "muscles" only. 45 degree front of the diff up and into the tunnel but there is no way I can lift the rear end up. The rear end gets stuck between the chassis tubes. I tried it with tilting the diff to the left and to the right no success. I am desperate. The only possibility I see in cutting off 5mm from the front of the drive pinion which would make it possible to lift the rear end of the diff into the chassis cage and then the front end into the tunnel (passing by the lower rectangle chassis tube. But this is not what I want.

thks good to read what is Your rear disc diameter and how high is the pad You use?? CSR road rear has a 255mm diameter disk and has a 40mm high pad. I am aware I have to change the cable, what diameter for the handbrake cable do You use? and do You use a 90 degree tube away from the caliper in order not to foul the rim or is it not necessary?

I dont understand what happened?

1. Anyone changed the the original rear calipers to Hispec SVA Ultralite 2 golf lug with hand brake cable and 13 inch wheels? From what I have checked it should e possible. Any other solutions out here? 2. Have big difficulties in getting respones from Hispec I try to buy these caliper since summer, placed an oder before Christmas, called the on an don but always promises but no feedback. Is everythin OK with Hispec. A year ago I changed to the Hispec front caliper, a aluminium rotor and Disc it works fine. But now I am stuck. Thks Hanns Per

1. Anyone changed the the original rear calipers to Hispec SVA Ultralite 2 golf lug with hand brake cable and 13 inch wheels? From what I have checked it should e possible. Any other solutions out here? 2. Have big difficulties in getting respones from Hispec I try to buy these caliper since summer, placed an oder before Christmas, called the on an don but always promises but no feedback. Is everythin OK with Hispec. A year ago I changed to the Hispec front caliper, a aluminium rotor and Disc it works fine. But now I am stuck. Thks Hanns Per

Thank you gentlemen, the bolts is the least problem for me. it is just bringing it in so that I can start with the bolts. bought a cheap used 3.6 Diff will take the internals out to make it lighter and and try to find out how to put it in with this light empty diff. let You know

thks ! however it seems this time I am too stupid to get it in would you have some more hints pls? thks Hanns Per

I would be grateful for any hint how to put a differential into the CSR. Is it rear side up first or propshaft side up first. Did it several times so far but must have succeeded by luck. thks

can someone report of a practial driving experience with cerametallic sprung center plate manual gearbox and road (not race) use only. Woiuld this be OK or a great difference and cumbersome compared to an organic plate?

Hello Richard, I remember very well and always remember when we stay at our friends nearbay in Payerbach. 283 is enourmous is it with a 2.3 engine in a Caterham? This year I had the 2.1 engine in with 250-260 hp and did 18.000 km. next year i will put the 2.4 engine in. I cant stop fiddeling around. I still have 2.5 block and thin of making a carburator version. Hanns Per

just read about Hunday electric clutch actuator i.e. clutch by wire