Hanns Per

thks have read and partly understood :-), here are 2 connections to the MFRU in my installation. The reason for this rebuild is to move all the electrics under the scuttle and to make it as simple and straight as possible. ECU MBE9A4 fuses and relays (without the MFRU) will be there on one spot. behind the middle part of the swoopy dash. I also would like to control the 2 fans of the radiator individually which is not possible with the MFRU. With the 2 pics. below does anything additional come to Yourmind, thks Andrew

thks it is a CSR with the Rover MFRU the control current is 5V from the ECU and the operating current is 12V. This is what I see from the cables and the loom plan. will pm Revilla thks Hanns Per

Hello, I want to get rid of the MFRU the relais int the MFRU are controlled by 5V current from the ECU. So I assume I need special relais which can be controlled with 5V or would any normal car relais which works with 12V control current also work with 5V control current? Thks for Your help Hanns Per

Thks this raises the next question since the AP plate is out of stock what would be alternative platrs from Helix or others?

should I worry??? Its a Caterham uprated clutch for the Duratec 2.3 engine used for road only. After some 75000km it developed hairline crack in the pressure plate on the outer edge. Should I be concerned or is this normal? Thank You for feedback Hanns Per

what would be the preferred 4-2-1 exhaust specification for a well tuned Duratec 2.3 engine 260hp for fast road? In terms of length for primaries and secondaries? thks Hanns Per

cannot explain the following issue I have with a Duratec 83 C degree thermostat. Its in a 2.1 (bored 2l) tuned engine. The issue: after installation of the thermostate the engine ran well on 83 C for abut 40 km and with max approx. 5000 RPM. Then I made a sharp acceleration up to 7800 RPM for a takeover. Since then the thermostat regulates the water temp at 89 Degree. How come? thks for feedback Hanns Per

has anyone installed a uprated/race brake master cylinder on a CSR yet? And what where the issues? I have 2001 S3 with an uprated master cylinder and tested if it would fit on the CSR but it touches the diagonal tube of the frame and the line to the front brakes would need to be shortened. Any larger master cylinder out there which would be an easy swap? Thks Hanns Per

interesting indeed :-)

I had the same in our 1.6K series S3 , from 2001, it was the broken baffle foam which blocked the lines. Once cleaned presusre was back again. Hanns Per

Thank You I did cover the inside of the bonnet with 10mm closed foam and the difference is noticeable, I think this will be good enough, very good. Now I have to get new primaries and secondaries to fit the longer Raceco silencer.

Andrew tks for feedback, I assume You are on the roller barrels??? Are You? I presently am on SBD TB's and I doubt it would fit under the bonnet. Anyhow I still have the BR'around and could reinstall them and the Raceco silencer which is also around.. To what extent did You cover the bonnet on the inside? Only the left side where the inlet is? Tks Hanns Per

elie, I thought about this but I would need a shorter manifold to have enough space for the manifold without cutting into the bonnet. Oily: thks what would be the max duration for a good low and midrange torque, eventually I could go to the 2.5 block (I have) with 100mm stroke to compensate for less aggressive cams Thks all

As I am getting older I become more sensible twds. noise from intake and exhaust. I think of using again the plenum of my old CSR 2.3 - 200 installation to reduce intake noise but would like to stay with 12.5:1 compression and Cosworth 250 hp overlapping cams. Will the engine run well with this setup? Has anyone experience with tuning the Duratec with a plenum and what max power can be expected? thks for Your feedback Hanns Per PS: I now have the Duratec 2.0 with SBD Tb's and 260hp but this is very loud.

could need the engine mount if its the S3 LH/RH one for the rover 1.6, ours broke yesterday Hanns Per KOBER hannsper.kober@n4t.eu

So I tested today it got slightly better but still far from satisfactory, I mean constant like with the mechanical thermostat. How do I set the 2 sites so that the pump reacts not too strong when reaching the upper limmits. i.e. not too much cold water is pumped into the block. i.e. how to set that the pump reacts more sensitive?? thks Hanns Per

thank You very much I adapted my sites and look forward the results. will test tomorrow. Did not quite understand the fan setting. The fans now kick on at 90C and stop at 85. I thi something you ment with the fan setting? Thks again Hanns Per

finally a gave up in 2014 and started this year again. now my problem is that I do not get a constant engine temperature. Whatever I do in the setup the temperature fluctuates 10 - 15 degrees. When the engine gets to 90 degrees and the pump runs at the given load the temp drops down to 75 - 78 degrees. What am I doing wrong? att. link to my coolant temp site and water pump duty cycle map. I fiddled around with the coolant temp site (was I wrong??). https://www.dropbox.com/s/gd6gcyo9owsgvn7/IMG_20170430_150455_hdr.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/co5etk56sz4ailq/IMG_20170430_150532_hdr.jpg?dl=0 thks Hanns Per

Thank You I played around this morning and think I got it know. Pump is running at variable speed correlating to temp. What I still do not understand what the "water pump temp site" is good for and how it affects the pumps running?

Thank You I have the EWP on Pin 33 which is a programmable pin which is also suggested from SBD but what settings should I use for the EWP

I have installed everything following SBD s instruction. Now I try to get the water pump running without the engine installed yet but ignition on. what are the correct settings for the MBE (with Easymap) thks for help Hanns Per

My concern is that at higher engine revs the EWP is slowing down to keep water temperature for the engine, but at constant higher engine revs the oil temperature rises and would need more waterflow to cool efficiently

Thank You yes I see this benefit for the engine cooling, but for the oil cooler I think this is counterproductive because then at higher revs less cooling water is going through the oil cooler compared to the mechanical water pump, hence less oil cooling

I built a Duratec 2.0 with 250hp with a Raceline wetsump and a laminowa oil cooler (the one which sits on top of the oil filter housing) and think of installing an electric water pump variable controlled from the ECU. However will this work for the oil cooler. While the EWP will give better water flow compared to the mechanical water pump at low RPM and low speed I am not sure about high RPM when driving on the motorway. With the mechanical waterpump the laminowa reduced the oil temp at constant 3500-4000 (motorway) from 110C to 100C on a 2.3 Duratec. Will the EWP do the same? It is controlled from the water temp at the rear exit of the cylinder block whereas with the mechanial water pump the water temp is controlled from the thermostat at the entry to the cylinder head and you have a constant with RPM rising water flow flow rate Thanks for Your feedback and thoughts Hanns Per

there is plenty info http://csr.informe.com/forum/checking-oil-level-dry-sump-dt27.html?highlight=oil hanns per