Hanns Per

thks for the feedback sorry for my mistake in the text its concerns a decision between Drexler and Tracsport

I want decide between Drexler and Tracsport (my apologies I made an error its not Titan which I actually have)Titan. What are the technical and performance differences and has someone practical experience? thks

Yes this could be a solution, I did have for a while cerametallic unsprung 184mm clutch, the feel was ok but the fact that it was unsprung was not OK because of the noise generated in the gearbox and clutch. Thks for your hint will look at it.

I use the clutch slave cylinder from SBD :Hydraulic Clutch Slave Cylinder 40mm, I think its the one from Titan, they all look the same. I calculated with the surfaces and the stroke of the 0riginal 15mm dia master cylinder I get the required stroke with the this slave cylinder for the clutch. The pedal pressure is OK for the yellow dot clutch cover which I use now with a high tuned 2.1 duratec engine. But its very hard with the red dot clutch cover which is necessary for the torque of the well tuned 2.4 engine I will put in for 2021 season. Anyone ever thought of some sort of hydraulic supporting device?

I have the 14mm master cylinder and tried it but as mentioned by revilla I am stuck within the law of physics it does help a little but results in longer pedal travel. For the clutch if I am not wrong I need 6-7mm travel minimum. One thing I have not checked yet would is the possibility to increase the diameter and to change the proportionof pedal length to master cylinder pushrod connection or would this accoridng to the law of physics have no impact on pedal pressure?

in the Caterham CSR 260 I have the original AP Racing clutch cover with the red dot and the AP racing master cylinder with Dia 15mm and the SBD standard slave cylinder. The pressure needed to press the pedal is very very high. Has anyone a solution to reduce the pedal pressure?

may expand this post and include Drexler. How technical and performance wise do Drexler and Tracsport compare. So far I have the Titan diff but but get tired of taking it in and out of the car for service quite often and think of going either Tracsport or Drexler. thks fo any feedback

Hello Richard, I assume you have a RH CSR wouldnt this also work with a LH CSR like mine? I have an imperial CSR from 2005, thks for feedback Hanns Per KOBER PS also look for cosworth roller barrels (stupidly I sold them 3 years ago)

does anyone have experience with this? I have a 2.5 block with crank conrod and pistons 1:12 compression sitting in the garage and would like to make a carb version out of it. What cams? is there a possibility to drive a distributor for the ignition ets.? thks Hanns Per PS: or is this a stupid idea?

Thank You gentlemen for all the help and link to the thread from 2014 https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/brise-starter-current-draw-transients I have contacted Brise ad will let You know.

I lost one of them, it should be one with 36mm outer diameter I assume, does anyone have such a washer thanks Hanns Per

after I changed the no longer working czech starter to the Brise starter I have the following issue. The engine does not start as it used to be . I have to press the accelerator pedal a few mm to make that the engine start to run. Normally the engine started to run without engaging the accellerator pedal. I assume the engine does not get the initial fuel injection?! thks for any feedback Hanns Per

Now I found the answer to ma problem, the original Caterham wheel speed sensor is not suited for the MBE ECU, in fact the wiring I made is dangerous and can harm the ECU. Caterham uses the original sensor only for the Tachometer. So I now try to put a Hall effect sensor like this one GS100502 from ZF Electronics. Somewhat tricky to mount this sensor where the sensor ring is on the CSR. I think of putting it on the Diff side flange of the drive shaft and put a sensor ring there. Anyone knows what the sensor ring specification is for the Caterham dirive shaft. thks Hanns Per

so was mine

this is the bolt, on the RHS side of the car the bolt head is showing to rear end and on the LHS the head facing to the front end, if I am correct the split brass is the sliding side so it important to have it well lubricated that is does not get tight.

it shows abt. every 10th of a second a different speed around the actual speed. the variance is smaller at lower speed but at abt. 120 kmh it is extreme from 60 to 130. I would like to have a stable info which varies according to actual speed only. I have this more or less since I changed from the Analog speedometer to the MXL2. The installation is as follows: Caterham CSR built 2005, The wheel speed sensor is the original one Schneider XS1N08NA340 (12-24V) on the rear right wheel. The signal from the sensor is connected to the MBE9A9 + of sensor to the 12V battery and - of the sensor to the chassis. Between + and the signal there is the original 1K 0.25W resistor. I tried all the different settings in the AIM and MBE and made adjustments to the sensor position but no improvement. Thank You for Your help Hanns Per

Hello James thank You very much, like You I am using right now Raceco silencer and original Caterham race primaries. In between have both the Caterham CAT and a custom made 4-2-1 part. I worked with BTB in spring and we defined all the detailed measurements they asked but they would feel better if they could have a CSR on site. I wait for the feedback from Joe Ellis/BTB for how long he would need to have a CSR on site for the correction and wait for his feedback. As soon as I know I am happy to get back to You. Thks in Advance Hanns Per what a beautiful car You have (mine was also blue like Yours but now is british racing green 180.000 km

Was planning to drive myself to BTB these days. BUT it does not look like possible in the near future without 14days of quarantine. So I am again out there asking for help if someone of You with a CSR who is close to BTB Exhausts Ltd. Unit 3-5 The Beaver Centre, Woodford Halse, Daventry, Northants, NN11 3DP, could let BTB his CSR to correct the silencer which they have made for me. thks in advance Hanns Per

anyone knows if this Titan steering rack rebuild suits the Caterham steering racks? thks Hanns Per

this is the rear mount for the silencer of my CSR 200 EU4 2005 (sorry I hae no idea why pictures always turn?) The EU4 is with a 2nd silencer in the rear under the trunk and with 2 rear exits. Question is this bracket the same for UK CSR's with silencers with a side exit? thks for Your help

some more feedback after a 300km blat yesterday, more and more I like the possibility to adapt damping from perfect road surface to bumpy roads. Even with a setup of full damping it does not get stiff as with the Penskes full hard setup there is still damping. I experience that aggressive driving is less stressful with active dampers.

its 225 front and 150 rear

some feedback on my first few 100 km with the Tractive electronic damper and my installation. I changed from very good Penske 3way dampers for the sake of being able to change damper settings while driving to adapt to different road situations. I only do road not race. With the Tractive Dampers from Raceshock's Simon (great Service) I use the same springs I had with the Penske's. When You switch on the ignition you start to hear a high tone from all the 4 dampers which s not noticeable once the engine is running. There is turn press knob to make the settings: I tried this but it is much more convenient with tapping on the display. In damping quality I would say both shocks are equal. One has the possibility to set front dampers rear dampers roll and pitch. It is a great experience when one can change settings during driving and one can learn very fast about the effects of different setting. With the setting on all 4 parameters on full - damping there is no slush feeling and one senses the road very good with the backside. THE GREAT thing however is the roll damping in turns. It is such a great feeling when You go into turns and the car stays even!!!!! I feel more confident with these dampers in turns than with the Penskes. This is a first feedback after only a few days driving. Here ara some pictures of my installation Sorry but I was unable to turn the picture

I moved from 9A4 to 9A9. With 9A4 I hat a battery master switch for the - chassis connection. This I also made for the 9A9 and faced the following problem: When switching on the battery connection the fuel pump started to run (without ignition 12Vswitched on) and when I switched on the ignition the pump started again. Then I made some trials with the fuses and figured out that with battery minus connection A003 permanently and A004, 0055 and B114,115 with a master switch on the battery + side the fuel pump starts when switching the ignition key on (12Vswitched on). Would this be the correct way to connect battery and 9A9? Fuel pump is directly connected from the HSD. I am not sure because the 9A9 pinout specifies permanent 12V for A003 and B 114,5 as permanent and A004,5 as 12Vswitched only(ignition). in the pinout there is no ifno that A004,5 and B114,5 have to go through a master switch. So I am not sure what is the right way to connect the 9A9 thks Hanns Per

not really and I decided to make it as it was 12V from battery mass from chassis and signal to the ECU. I think its less elegant but what shalls :-)