Hanns Per

what is a bust unit? I am not an english native speaker.

the box will be behind the dash and be fixed to the scuttle wall, it will be larger than the opening in the dash and it will be have an angle downward to the front so things don't easily fall out when accelerating hard specifically on steep mountain roads out of hairpin turns.

Here is the sketch this will be the solution but I will make it somewhat smaller to be more in proportion an let it open.

Very good Good thks (by the way its an AIM MXL2) will make sketches for this and post them

without a lidno satnav only for H.M. stuff, googles sunglasses lipstick a.m.m. I am still undecided if I should make a lid or not. In the middle now I have a box which goes to the scuttle wall

No 21 at all but I have all the "space" behind the passengers dash and I thought I could use this for H.M. stuff. Thks Jonathan for the pic I have a swopy dash and I thought of something like this, maybe a little bit smaller

anyone ever thought about a glove box in the dash? I did and did some search for solutions but found nothing. thks Hanns Per

Thank you for the pics good looking, did the same a few years ago but yellow with callipper spay but the paint does not stick well and easily chips off.

should give You some infoHanns Per

thank You I finally got it also found this in the meantime will have to put the cable in again Good night Hanns Per

Thank You I had the connection without warning lamp. this is from the SBD website SBD states their alternators are self-exciting and :Advantages of self-exciting alternator: 1. With no extra wires required it simplifies your wiring and less chance of issues relating to broken wires 2. The regulator produces a higher voltage output, which is ideal for use with Lithium and lead acid batteries. 3. If ignition light is required to warn of low Voltage an additional indicator is available. Part No. ALT-WOSP-LVS-01 So if the Edge alternator is self-exciting then one would not a connection from L and I I assume?

thank You, I have the original CSR Edge 45 W alternator. So far I was running with the Pin 2 IG connected to the switched battery connection of the starter. Following my reading on SBD's homepage I took this connection away and hope it will be OK?

Just read read on the SBD internet site and if I understood correct I do not need any of the 2 cables only the this power cable to the battery and starter. Is this correct? thks Hanns Per

How do I wire an alternator with 2 control cables 1 alternator charge signal and 2 alternator field batt. correct to the ECU? I have now only the Alternator field batt cable conected to pin 13 of the ECU which is also the pin for the switched battery connection but this gives me a wrong reading of the battery voltage when the engine is not running. The alternator pulls about 0,5V. thks Hanns Per

Ian not scary I could force the (brake with engaged clutch or apply the clutch when standing). It simply was not satisfying with "idle speed" 2400 RPM. but I could solve the problem I changed the ignition timing for TPS step 0 i.e. I retarded the ignition: The setting was too much advanced ignition. Problem solved thks for inputs Hanns Per

Thks tomorrow will try the previous ford baro sensor and see if it disappears

I have a Duratec 2.3 with SBD TB's and a 4-1 Caterham exhaust + cat in my present installation and face the following problem: When the engine is in operating temp Water 89 oil 85 and I am driving a 3000 rpm or above and then disconnect the clutch for whatever reason the engine gets stuck at approx 2400 rpm.Only when force the engine to reduce the rpm (braking or using the clutch) the engine goes down to the idle speed (1100 rpm) and stays there. What are the parameters I should change to have the engine drop idle speed without force. The ECU is a MBE 9A4 and I fiddle around with easimap but I am no expert. Hence I am looking for advice. Is this a fuel based, temp based or whatever? I changed from the combined Ford airtemp/Baro sensor the the SBD baro sensor and use the ford sensor only for the temparature. thks for Your help Hanns Per

So I did replace the MFRU with individual micro relais, all with diodes und put everything under the scuttle. Thanks to Andrew, your information was very helpful. Here are some pictures of my winter modificationitis: %5Bimg%5Dhttps%3A//i.imgur.com/SiwTF9H.jpg%5B/img%5D %5Bimg%5Dhttps%3A//i.imgur.com/EbthJMS.jpg%5B/img%5D %5Bimg%5Dhttps%3A//i.imgur.com/DtoT6Fz.jpg%5B/img%5D %5Bimg%5Dhttps%3A//i.imgur.com/xQGBEYh.jpg%5B/img%5D %5Bimg%5Dhttps%3A//i.imgur.com/i9rZpUp.jpg%5B/img%5D

here it is and me fool did see it, now after paining

this is the difference between the left and right upper rear wishbone where would I find the marking on the lower rear wishbones cant find anything?? thks

Oh yes I got it now almost not visible small scratch in the paint. Thank You Hanns Per

all over but specially on the bearing housing

After abt. 155.000km I did change the spherical bearings this winter (front lower rear upper and lower). They where pretty much worn out so I should have done this already last winter i.e. 15.000km earlier. At this occasion I checked with the CSR supplementary assembly guide and realized that I had the upper wishbones not correct in place. The spherical bearing circlip showed downwards and not upwards as per the assembly guide. Furthermore the guide states the lefthand wishbone is marked with an L and the right hand wishbone has no marking. I could not find any marking on the wishbones at all. Could it be that there is no difference of the LH and RH wishbones for the CSR200?? Thank You for Your feedback Hanns Per

Penske 8700 3 way for Caterham CSR Road Spec Chassis. These dampers are simply the best all round damper. Wide range of adjustment and digressive/linear pistons. Suitable for both road and track. Front and rear, perfect conditions, fully serviced each winter from Meteor Motorsport (new seals, oil etc.) Damper Lengths and Spec Rear Dampers 438mm canister hose length rear 620mm Front Dampers 381mm canister hose length front 225mm spare hoses 1 pair 400mm asking GBP 4.000,— Hanns Per

thks have read and partly understood :-), here are 2 connections to the MFRU in my installation. The reason for this rebuild is to move all the electrics under the scuttle and to make it as simple and straight as possible. ECU MBE9A4 fuses and relays (without the MFRU) will be there on one spot. behind the middle part of the swoopy dash. I also would like to control the 2 fans of the radiator individually which is not possible with the MFRU. With the 2 pics. below does anything additional come to Your mind, thks Andrew PS I sent You the connections with separat mail I could not manage to get a good picture in this post