Wilts North AR

Previous car was a 2000 1.6K Supersport with 135 ish BHP. Took it to 'Oily' for verniers, Jenveys, Emerald ECU & plenum type air intake. Retained the Supersport cam shaft. 'Oily' estimated about 155bhp from this upgrade. Took it to emerald for RR set up & surprise the engine was pushing out 158bhp. At the time the upgrade was less than £3000. Better than changing engines or heads???

Good idea get rid of that weight! It is just a matter of joining up the smaller bore flexi hose at the rear of the engine that contains the submarine connection incorporating the T stat. You may well require a suitable length of hose to accomplish this. You will also require a suitable sized piece of 18 gauge aluminium to cover the hole. Apologies for the orientation. They were the right way up originally!

Are the bolts now fitted only in by a few threads ? If so try & pull the roll bar up until stopped by the bolt heads then see if there is enough wiggle room to insert the last bolt. If so then tighten down all bolts a turn at a time until bottomed out. If not then the roll bar is dimensionally inaccurate. Trouble is that also could be the case with the chassis although 'Westbury' chassis are allegedly built to more accurate tolerances. Use of Dremel in this case not recommended !

The official Caterham guidance for the front hub nut is as follows: 'Torque castellated nut to 8lb/ft or 11Nm. Back off nut if required until castellation lines up with a split pin hole in the stub axle.' Give the wheel a spin to settle the bearings. Check for any play by grasping the fitted wheel at 12 & 6 o'clock & rocking vertically. It may be found that backing off the nut will reduce the bearing pre load to a point where there may be play. If so the alternative is to tighten the nut to the next hole. If the next hole is within one castellation then this should be fine. Check for play again BEFORE fitting split pin. Fit the split pin in the safest way - head either to top or facing forward. The pin holes are usually horizontal & vertical.

Gas turbine has less moving parts, quicker oil feed system, pressure pump(s) & scavenge pump(s). I always go for two week interval but 30 days would be fine at the max.

Only TEN repeats - get them deleted Hanns......

The weird thing about the rear wing fixings & to me goes against all engineering principles is that the build manual suggests that the bolts are passed through with the head in the boot. Better to have the bolt passing the other way so the nut & thread end is not exposed to the road but also for uniformity. OK it will mean either shortening the existing bolts, purchasing suitable shorter ones & if this practice is carried out actually having to accommodate one of the nuts by trimming the boot floor. Spent some time doing this when I built my car & it looks right.

JK - I have found out that cut n' paste does not work when logged in as 'Wilts North AR' but does when logged in to my restricted MT a/c...weird! Have asked Shaun E for advice.

Thanks - I do not know why but my new PC seems not to want to cut n' paste links.

And for those that just want to lubricate the drop link ball ends my 'easy' to follow guide: https://www.lotus7.club/guides/maintenance/rear-anti-roll-bar-drop-link-maintenance I considered moving to the McGill links but relented & purchased two individual CC ball joints which were stripped & lubricated before fitting. The original bottom ball joints lasted six years with annual lubrication but eventually the wear was out of sensible limits. So those that have fitted the McGill links can we have an update in two or three years time as to the resistance to wear?

Have not a clue what the red plug is for. But the blue one is the fill plug. Pour it in there till it dribbles back out. My late 2012 BMW LSD does not have either of the two upper plugs. So you will have to extract the old oil unless it is the same spec as the replacement oil. There has been conversation about BMW LSD oil levels after my lengthy thread about output seal leakage. Rest assured the correct oil level as above will not cause the seals to leak unless they are either (a) not fitted correctly or (b) an early type. Which in your case (b) is not so. Nothing less than a 70w-140 will suffice in the BMW LSD. https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/bmw-differential-have-you-had-oil-leaks-output-seals

The radial scratches on the rear wheels are caused by the small clearance between the DD ears & rim. Particles of grit get caught momentarily in the gap hence the scratches. Trouble is there is only so much material that one can remove from the rear face of the ears as the weld becomes compromised. Something you have to live with.

Never seen that before. Indications are that there has been an in service interference fit with the Diff flanges so there should be some sort of radial witness mark on the Diff? As a Seven is quite noisy at the rear end you would not have known that this was going on if there is an interference of surfaces. If there were no leaks or any other related nasties prior to the strip down then cleaning up the swarf & checking the Diff is all you can do. The dimensions between the drive shafts, Diff & ears are quite tight but I would not have expected a slight interference fit as displayed in your pic due to the CV joints allowing some in/out flex.