Foggy

Hi all, my 22 year old k series rad is showing signs of having had enough so I'm going to use the opportunity to upgrade to a nice shiny aluminum one. Roadsport 1800, road use only, just high days and holiday use (eventually!) so with that in mind I've been looking at Radtec, Alicool and Coolexperts. Any recommendations for (or against)? Thanks in advance

Right then, the nose cone is back from TSK and as suggested, Tony can clearly walk on water! Nothing was too much trouble and he even called to say he could remove the signwriting without necessitating a respray. Given that his pricing was soooooo much more competitive I went ahead with a full respray and even threw in a curved ball by requesting a nose band at the last minute. Very, very impressed so a massive thank you to Tony for his amazing work and thank you to you all for persisting with his recommendation.

The general consensus of opinion seems to be that Tony at TSK is capable of walking on water so I called and had a quick chat. The outcome of which is my nose cone is now boxed and ready to be shipped to Tony. Not something I had considered but given a combination of such high recommendations and cost, I'm prepared to gamble the couriers dont't lose/damage it! Thank you one and all for all the advice and opinions, very much appreciated and I will report once returned. Thank you

Thanks all, I've been quoted around the £400 mark so it would appear that is about the going rate. It's not actually a full respray that's needed just the removal of the name that is sign written below the badge but unless it can be done and blended in, a full respray may be the only option.

Hi Paul, I'm aware of TSK's reputation but was hoping to get the work done a little more local, thanks though.

Hi all, quick question if I may. What in others experience, would be a ball park figure for a nose cone respray on the 7? Thanks in advance.

Don't suppose anyone knows of a source for the old pattern Toyo R888 185/60/14 82v tyres do they? I have had my first puncture in 12 years and could do with a replacement but all I can find are the new pattern R888R or are H rated and not GG compound.

Good evening all, as an update to my misfire problem I thought it only fair to acknowledge the many helpful suggestions offered by way of an explanation regarding the final solution. In the end the problem(s) weren't electrical at all. I had a split in the hose from the manifold to the evap unit and also the pipe from the manifold to pressure sensor. Furthermore, the pipe from the ECU to the pressure sensor had become detached!! The car is now back to normal and running absolutely fine. Again, very many thanks to all the contributors to this post. It really is very kind of so many to take the time to respond to a plea for help. Thank you all.

Hi Revilla, yes the plugs have been changed (see my initial post) in an attempt to fix the problem and at the same time the plug leads and HT lead were checked. John, as a follow up I will give the garage that carried out the initial attempt at diagnosis a call to try and determine how they tested the coil and to confirm they are sure it’s ok. Madmalc, thanks, I’ll try anything now!

Good afternoon all. Well I have checked the lambda sensor again and it makes no difference at all to the running so I’m ruling that out. The dizzy retaining bolt is tight and the HT lead is still sat in its clip away from the crank case sensor so I’m ruling that one out as well. The water temperature sensor has been unplugged and that makes no difference either. The IACV I removed and cleaned which was a bit sooty, is that normal? Either way cleaning and replacing/disconnecting made no difference. I have had a good look over various electrical connections that may cause problems but nothing of note. One thing I did notice today and that operating the throttle via the throttle body as opposed to the accelerator pedal, the misfire seems to be evident higher up the Rev range as well as the previously mentioned 2k (although 2k is still the worst!). Would this be because the engine is not under driven load or another symptom of the problem getting worse? Think I’m rapidly getting to the stage where the car needs the attention of a professional with more knowledge than me now. I really am very grateful for everyone’s input though, thank you all.

Good evening all. Having read further re the symptoms a lambda sensor failure would produce I am coming down on the side of that sounding like a likely culprit for my misfire. Having read how to test with a multi meter a thought then occurred to me...... could I just not unplug it? Or am I being a tad naive?!

So, in light of everyone's kind suggestions as to what the fault may be, I'll try the following when I next get the time; Lambda sensor (again) Rotor arm idle speed air control valve on another post along a similar vein fingers were pointed at the water temperature sender so I'll try that theory as well. Many thanks for all your contributions and I'll report back once I've had the chance.

Not sure what tests were done on the coil just that “it had been checked”. Once warmed up then yes, the problem is a lot more manageable. It was the warming up aspect that I noticed the fan cutting in sooner than I would have expected from past experience. When cold, it’s constantly misfiring at around the 2k mark but if you then apply a generous amount of throttle, absolutely fine!

Hi Revilla, not quite sure what you mean by the leak being ahead of the sensor? I have the bog standard k-series single pipe exhaust and the lambda sensor is just after the primaries. The exhaust has had a very neat repair and is now back on the car but the original fault is still there. I did notice that once fully up to temperature the misfire is a lot less evident. On that vein, the fan is cutting in sooner than prior to the misfire, anything on the coolant side liable to cause a similar misfire? I have to stress that once under load and accelerating, the car behaves absolutely fine. Just refuses to trundle along at around 2k rpm without the misfire.

Hi John, the Lambda sensor would appear to be fine and the exhaust leak the most likely culprit. The exhaust has been removed for repair during the process of which, we noticed further evidence of cracking along the weld where the pipe meets the cat. I am assured it's all perfectly salvageable hand has gone to a recommended TIG welding specialist locally. Once the exhaust is back on the car I will report back but the general consensus of opinion is the exhaust leaking would be the most likely cause of the misfire at low rpm...... unless others don't agree?

Thank you for that, removed lambda sensor connection and out for a nip down the road to test. This time I had the other half with me who noticed "the exhaust sounds funny" and sure enough...... crack in the exhaust where the tailpipe joins the silencer! Thank you all for your contributions.

Nope, all the leads are fine. Any other suggestions?

Hi Stridey, the connections were all checked by my local friendly mechanic without my presence so I have no idea how they were tested but I have a multimeter so I'll follow your suggestion. Many thanks

I am seeking the guidance and wisdom of all on blatchat. My 1.8 K Series Roadsport is suffering from a misfire at or around 2k rpm. Under load its fine, just pottering around through town etc produces rough running/misfire as I say, at approx 1800 - 2k rpm. Connections on the ecu, injectors, coil, oxygen sensor, distributor and ht leads have all been checked and the TPS switch and plugs have been changed. Any ideas what over avenues we could look at? Thank you

That’s great, many thanks! I’ll give Redline a shout tomorrow and see how they compare price wise. Given that I don’t 100% know that the pot switch is the guilty culprit, I may just order the fleabay item you very kindly linked. Thanks again, appreciated.

Hi all, having had new plugs and various other components checked I have been advised I most likely need a new throttle pot switch. My question is, the part number I currently have is marked on the body as JZX3491 whereas the securing plate is marked MHB102281. Both of which appear to be hard to find. Caterham parts have one (also out of stock) marked as SLD100080. The SLD100080 version is available online but is this a compatible replacement for the original on my 98 1.8 k-series Roadsport? Thanks in advance.

Hi - I'll take the single Peltor headset please. Thank you,

Ah, I think I see what you're getting at. Once the flexible hose connector and the solid j-pipe connector line are released, remove the filter completely from the bulk head with the j-pipe still attached and then remove the j-pipe. Does that make more sense?