AdrianC

Green reg began with J with spare wheel carrier, few cars behind so not many details! About 3pm on Thursday 25th May

There were about 20 sevens from ReHaB on our regular Wales weekend, spotted you all in Bala as we were enjoying a spot of lunch in the sun.

#3 Its difficult to see from your picture, on my Duratec the bottom of the 2 hoses comes from the rear of the block, the top is the return

No

I found mirror glass replacements on eBay approx £9 each. As a bonus you can also find wide angle ones. Not too difficult to split the mirrors to get to the glass which are not really fixed other than some small sticky pads.

As fitted

I have these https://amzn.eu/d/9DPOsUV Very similar to the Caterham version and are excellent on the road. Simple to fit, just remove the outer bezel, instal unit, connect wires and replace bezel

In a few weeks time with cooler weather you will probably be reversing this and reconnecting the heater but still with the same problem. Surely far better to replace the valve, speak to Chris @Redline Components, he has them in stock and nearly always next day delivery. If you raise the car as high as possible at the rear and syphon all the water out of the expansion tank you will have little water in the heater matrix to clear up after disconnection. After any changes lower and refill expansion tank.

I have had a similar issue. First of all check the hoses to the valve are the correct way round. The bottom hose to the valve should come from the back of the head, the top hose returns the coolant. The top of the valve is a straight through connection on the valve ie the valve only operates on the bottom of the valve only (supply). There will always be some heat "bleed" through the top connection. The valves do have a habit of over time letting a small amount of hot water through but it is enough to put significant heat into the heater matrix. I have had 2 faulty valves over the last 5 years. Changing the valve is simple and cheap.

I have a cut out switch which cuts all power to the car and got into the habit of switching off the ignition and then the cut out. The immobiliser takes 20-30 secs to arm itself so cutting all power straight away does not allow enough time for the unit to actually arm itself. As a consequence when you go to start the car the immobiliser need to first arm itself to then be able to disarm. No amount of fob waving will do anything until its ready to disarm.

I have done 32000+ miles in a 360s SV with 13inch wheels and ZZS all over UK and Ireland plus yearly trips to France and Spain. Sump clearance set at 75-80mm and I can honestly say other than hitting a stone on the road I have never had any issues with ride height and clearance. You do need adjustable shocks to get the set up right.

I once had a similar issue with a Sigma where oil would weep from a minor casting imperfection. I sealed it with Araldite, lasted over 40000miles (then sold the car)

I have tried loads of different manufacturers. Bilt Hamber is the only one that actually cleans off brake grime and it works!

Probably us, R300NOT and AC02ABC, one black and one black grey. The M40 was rather busy!!!!

Speak to Alex @Millwater, he is well clued up on these things and will do the work for you as well (if you want him to) Adrian

I have found a mutli tool with a flat blade successfully removes in the past by simply cutting through it, thats if you can get the tool into the space!

The interest is terminal

My Nitrons from Meteor Motorsport were supplied with new front inserts

If the dampers have not been removed for sometime give all the bolts a good soaking in Plus Gas or similar. You will need to jack the car up to remove, this takes all the weight off so not necessary to wind the collars.

I would speak to Dave at Premier Paint Guard he is a real expert on this, as many on Blatchat will testify http://www.premierpaintguard.co.uk/caterham_selection.html

You can alter the height of the door mirror which brings it much closer to the door and also gives much better visibility over the rear wing. Any vibrations are significantly reduced. I have had the Racetec mirrors in the past and found the door would often hit the mirrors when fitted to the windscreen knocking them out of alignment. You also cant fully open the doors!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Caterham-Sill-Trim/273549836827?hash=item3fb0d7421b:g:KOgAAOSwZtNb5AWN:rk:25:pf:0

So my experience is KISS led. Cut a hole through passenger bulkhead and fit one of these in the negative side https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Isolator-Switch-with-spare-key-100a-Continuous-12v-500a-cut-off-kill-/121365927711 Has worked faultlessly for years, act as a basic anti theft device as well (FIA switch externally is a bit obvious for this purpose) Adrian

Some great roads on this trip! To finish off the blat I would go NE up the A708 from WP 45 and then south along the B709/A7 back to Gretna, The B709 in particular is a cracking road!

Ok so I have had a look at the route, remembering that if you plan a route in MRA basic you are using Open Street Maps as the mapping algorithm. This will differ in some instances from a TomTom map alogorithim. If you purchase the Gold version you can plan routes in TomTom maps (or Garmin Here equivalent) which will always be faithfully replicated on a TT device or any software using TT maps. There is also a useful function to be able to compare the routes created on one map type with another so you can easily see the differences in the algorithms the mapping software uses. It is important not to place waypoints near to junctions. In the case of WP 13 this in my view is far to close to the T junction and the actual GPS might easily think its a left turn here and hence you are taken to the west of Silverstone and not through the town. This also applies to WP 17 which I can see again is right on a junction. When you arrive at WP 17 you need to turn right but in fact the nav device can easily see this as a left turn. So you are told to turn left and go through the WP and instead of then requiring a "U" turn takes you on a loop back towards 16. As you have now been through 17 the routing then looks for WP 18 and determines the fastest route to it, hence why you are directed though Charwelton and not Woodford Halse. I dont think there is anything wrong with the software.What any nav device relies on is the accuracy of its actual GPS location and comparing it with the GPS co-ordinates of the next WP. To avoid these sorts of discrepancies keep WP's away from junctions, roundabouts and the like and allow the device a chance to navigate to the next WP. Hopefully this explains the problems you encountered.