AdrianC

Green reg began with J with spare wheel carrier, few cars behind so not many details! About 3pm on Thursday 25th May

There were about 20 sevens from ReHaB on our regular Wales weekend, spotted you all in Bala as we were enjoying a spot of lunch in the sun.

#3 Its difficult to see from your picture, on my Duratec the bottom of the 2 hoses comes from the rear of the block, the top is the return

No

I found mirror glass replacements on eBay approx £9 each. As a bonus you can also find wide angle ones. Not too difficult to split the mirrors to get to the glass which are not really fixed other than some small sticky pads.

As fitted

I have these https://amzn.eu/d/9DPOsUV Very similar to the Caterham version and are excellent on the road. Simple to fit, just remove the outer bezel, instal unit, connect wires and replace bezel

In a few weeks time with cooler weather you will probably be reversing this and reconnecting the heater but still with the same problem. Surely far better to replace the valve, speak to Chris @Redline Components, he has them in stock and nearly always next day delivery. If you raise the car as high as possible at the rear and syphon all the water out of the expansion tank you will have little water in the heater matrix to clear up after disconnection. After any changes lower and refill expansion tank.

I have had a similar issue. First of all check the hoses to the valve are the correct way round. The bottom hose to the valve should come from the back of the head, the top hose returns the coolant. The top of the valve is a straight through connection on the valve ie the valve only operates on the bottom of the valve only (supply). There will always be some heat "bleed" through the top connection. The valves do have a habit of over time letting a small amount of hot water through but it is enough to put significant heat into the heater matrix. I have had 2 faulty valves over the last 5 years. Changing the valve is simple and cheap.

I have a cut out switch which cuts all power to the car and got into the habit of switching off the ignition and then the cut out. The immobiliser takes 20-30 secs to arm itself so cutting all power straight away does not allow enough time for the unit to actually arm itself. As a consequence when you go to start the car the immobiliser need to first arm itself to then be able to disarm. No amount of fob waving will do anything until its ready to disarm.

I have done 32000+ miles in a 360s SV with 13inch wheels and ZZS all over UK and Ireland plus yearly trips to France and Spain. Sump clearance set at 75-80mm and I can honestly say other than hitting a stone on the road I have never had any issues with ride height and clearance. You do need adjustable shocks to get the set up right.

I once had a similar issue with a Sigma where oil would weep from a minor casting imperfection. I sealed it with Araldite, lasted over 40000miles (then sold the car)

I have tried loads of different manufacturers. Bilt Hamber is the only one that actually cleans off brake grime and it works!

Probably us, R300NOT and AC02ABC, one black and one black grey. The M40 was rather busy!!!!

Speak to Alex @Millwater, he is well clued up on these things and will do the work for you as well (if you want him to) Adrian