Doug phillips

I had the same problem ☹️, it was an easy fix . I sold the windscreen, and went aero. Job done 😬.

I am bit busy at work, I will email you later on tonight.

Hi cur7is, If you are still having problems I could take a look for you on Thursday night. I work in Wimbeldon so it's not that far for me to call around, I can also bring a volt meter with me .

I would not recommend pop rivetting in place as this would make it very difficult to remove when it corrodes and meeds cleaning or replacing. I would say that removing a pot rivet is a lot easer that a rusted in screw, just 5 seconds with an electric drill and it is out. Also as it is held in so well, it has (twice) saved me for losing a wing when the fixings have failed. I does flap about a bit though ☹️. Each to there own method

You will not be able to solder the wire to the wing stay, crimp one of these to the end of the cable and pot rivet it in. http://www.spares2you.co.uk/images/Cable-crimps-tile.jpg Job done

Quoting richy: Failing that, what about self-amalgamating electrical tape? here Much cheaper, and will be available at your local electrical wholesaler. Great stuff. Richy Edited by - richy on 1 Jul 2011 21:13:18 I second that, it has been holding some of the rubber hose's together on my 7 for quite some time ( I must replace them this winter 😬).

It is very easy to remove the Stack, the only tool you will need it a 5 or 5.5mm socket. Put you hand behind the dash to the right had side (while sitting in the car), you will feel the only connector. It has a locking ring on the outside, turn this anti clock-wise and you will it unlock (there are 3 lugs that are the key). You will then be able to pull the hole thing off, pulling it away from you. Now you will feel 4 nuts behind the Stack, 2 each side one above the other. These are attached to a small bracket, that holds the Stack to the back of the dash. Just undo each one, and remove the brackets (watch out for the small washers). You should now be able to push the Stack from behind, and out of the dash panel towards you.

We also have a white/cream leather armchair - fully electric that goes from sitting to standing or lying down, complete with footrest. Once again, only got a few weeks use, so is as new, but the company that sold it want a fraction of its value back. Any idea how much ?. As this would be ideal for my batty 😬 mother-in-law

I had the same problem, but mine was due to there being no seal on the back of the unit (the plastic case is just pushed togeather ), so with some roofing gunge (the type that does not go off) around the flange 😳,and so far it has been ok .

Matt YHM again

Hi Chris, I have emailed you, plus I have put them on my website here.

If I remember correctly, a green wire on a Caterham is a switched and fused v+ Correct .

Matt, you have new mail

Will do Chris.

I have an old one hanging in my garage, its a bit tatty. I could take a picture for you at the weekend.

Hi Matt, You will have mail soon, this is as soon as the O2 SMTP server works .

- Bilstein height adjustable shocks for widetrack with green race (i believe) springs . Good condition. £100 If this is for all four corners , then yes please

Ok, at last I have fitted these to my Stack dash and have them working. Like a lot of things, it is a easy job when you know how. And should take a maximum of 1 hour to do. So to start. 1, To make the job easer, take the Stack dash out of the dashboard. To do this, feel under it and locate the main wiring connector. This has a round locking ring around it, so turn it anti clockwise about a quarter of a turn and it should just pull off. Now you should also be able to feel 4 nuts (5.5mm) undo these and remove the brackets (look out for the tiny washers) 😳. Then you should be able to push the Stack out of the dashboard, towards you. 2, You should now be able to see the main wiring loom for the Stack (to the left hand side of the hole), I had to cut a few cable ties to be able to fan out the wires. You are looking for 3 wires, black (there are about 3 of these), for the earth. Green (quite a thin wire), which is the live feed. And a white wire, with a black stripe (this is the tacho feed). 3, Connect the Black wire on the loom, to the Blue wire on the DRE. The Green wire on the loom, to the Red wire on the DRE. Then the White wire(with a black stripe)on the loom, to the Green wire on the DRE. Job done, it really is that easy. 😬 I have a 1.8VVC and have set the Low point at 4000rpm, and the high point to 6750. Have fun.

Quoting BudJuggler: *arrowup*Didn't know it had one! Where is it? You have to take the back of the Stack, and then remove the main PCB to get to it. I would send it to Stack for a replacement, rather than do it my self.

Link

Quoting Lee Fowler: Quoting Mark W: do a search on here , you can open the back and pop the silica in the oven , sorted . The Silica is not always the problem! Lee The problem with the Stack is that there is no seal around the plastic housing of the unit, but there is one around the multi connector . So I have put a bead of that mastic stuff for fixing leaking roof's, around the inside of the casing. I have not tested this out yet, to see if it will do the job. But will find out this comming week on the WightBlat

I went Aero a few years ago and just love it, as the first winter came along I said to the wife "just off to the garage to change the aero for the full screen". I was told not to change it 😬, so the weather gear was sold and life was good . Once you change to a Aero, you will never want to go back *thumbup* (that is unless it rains when out for a long blat) 😬

I have just cable tied mine to the top of the ECU 😳.

I see how it works now , well done barry 😬

test 2