djg

Ok, So now I have taken the dry-sump pan gauze filter out and found a small, ie a dozen or so, number of non-magnetic metal particles in the gauze. They are about 3-4mm long and about 1mm wide. I have not removed the gauze in the past two years of ownership. Am I going to have to look at the bearings?, or is this usual to find this, say if this is the first time the gauze has been removed? And I was just thinking how nice it was to work on the 7 a bit !!

Thanks for the replies. The vibration is gradually getting worse over the last season. Mainly when pressing on. Oil pressures are 5 bar by gauge when running and can be as low as 2 bar when idle, but when very hot, ie dunsfold day. Recently did a clutch change and renewed engine mounts, so a nut and bolt check was also in my mind. Vib only occurs under load, so difficult to replicate stationary. "Good" to hear that those filters get blocked up a bit. I have changed the oil used from Mobil 1 to the Comma Track day oil too, that made things better for a while. I have another snow bound day here, so I may get brave and do that nut and bolt check. Thanks again Doug

I have a 1600 K with the purple pump set up with about 20 K miles on the engine. A reasonable amount of which has been track day work, the majority not in my hands. Towards the end of the summer I was getting noticably more engiune vibration at about 4.5 to 5 k rpm, especially on throttle back. Topping up the oil helps this , but the engine just dumps that out via the catch tank after a while and the vibration gets bad again. This vibration is worse after repeated acceleration through the gears, sounds like oil starvation to me, but OP is fine on the electric gauge. I have done a couple of oil changes via a suction pump and now feel it is time to take the dreaded blue plate off . I also wish to remove the sump and just give it a clean and see if there is anything silly going on in there. I have seen on CC website that they do a small filter for the dry sump K cars, part No FP 2026. Where is this on the car?, I assume it is on the outlet from the sump pan. Also why do I need 2 sump gaskets?, I only ask so I don't get any surprises and order up the right parts.. Laslty, any thoughts on what else might be going on to cause the vibration from the POBC. TIA Doug

If it just the lid vibrating then a relatively thick steel strp rivetted/screwed to it may help. Or some of that black panel drum stuff may help. Doug

The fresh air heater boxes are only plastic, so potentially could be modified. Doug Edited by - DJG on 4 Jan 2010 15:54:39

I have seen a 3 yr old Polo with a similar issue. It was a company car and apparently the bulge/warp appearred after a long spell in the sun 😳. HTH Doug

Ah, Even if I was doing a retro kitchen 100 cm is too wide for the space provided. many thanks anyway Doug

Nick Can you provide some details on the cooker hood please, part no, would be fine. TIA Doug Edited by - DJG on 22 Nov 2009 19:11:54

I have a '98 1600k which I have owned for 2.5 yrs, it came with a Radtec radiator. The invoice says it was fitted in '05,and it still looks like new and I have had no problems. I fitted a set of silicone hoses last year and they all fitted well too. HTH Doug

Shad Yes, reasonably local I am in Lambourn, I have a '98 BRG with yellow stripe superlight. I am in the middle of lots of DIY and haven't used the 7 much this year. Keep trying to come to a meet but always seem to miss it. Op Lock No, it is a '98 with widetrack. I can feel a step in the nearside cup. I had the car flat floored and raised a bit as the sump was too close to the road for my liking, and that seems to have upset were the ball sits Does fitting a sleeve mean machining out the cup ?, The open end of the cup is fine it is just where the ball rubs that has worn. Doug

I have been chasing this issue for a while. Two new sets of balls and it's still there. I have found that my cups have worn and I assume that means new wishbones?. With regard MOT I put a large glob of grease in just before the test and the knocking subsides for a while and gets it through the MOT. Cheers Doug

Having had a real job with the J hose onto the thermostat housing on a K, I can vouch for putting the silicon hoses in some boiling water, it just made the difference and let the hose fit. Doug

The pic in the Haynes manual shows it with the sring forwards, ie to the belts. I seem to recall it only fits nicely in one way anyway. Top tip, don't d up the bolts on the housing too tight, or the brass ferroles pull through, or atleast they did on mine. Superglue is a great fix for it too. Cheers Doug

As it says. Flashed you from a Red Seat Leon Doug

Just had another look and it's the antiroll bar ends rattling in the wishbone cups. I guess i was just looking at the bit I had replaced rather than what I hadn't. Well at least it will be a cheap fix. Doug

Norman It does appear to be the rack float that is excessive. The one I replaced was feeling better than this one, although that had definite forward back movemnent on the near side. I guess Caterham are the people to talk too as I can't beleive you have to adjust and relubricate a new rack after that small amount of use. Cheers Doug

I have fitted a new 8% rack from Caterham about 14 mths/1500 miles ago including 2 trackdays, yes I know but the weather was wet last year. I have had the 7 for 2 years and this weekend has got to have been the warmest weather I have used it in, So after a 100 mile trip back home today the rack was starting to knock/rattle enough to hear it at 50 mph going down a few manhole cover dips through my ear plugs. Having checked there is slack in the near side of the rack, up down not forward back and just enough play to feel on the offside. I have searched and seen the use of EP 140 and have the adjusting spanner. Is this a TADTS, or have I got to adjust the rack every 2k miles of use?? TIA Doug

EU2 earth on my 1600 SS is located under one of the exhaust camshaft blanking plate bolts. Just looked HTH Doug

And possibly this one too here Doug

Yes I have used Holts fire gum on the primaries, works a treat. It's works well on my Oil boiler flue too. Removal from my first attempt required a little persuasion, but nothing too serious and a wire bruch cleaned up the mating surfaces for next time. Having done it a couple of times now, engine out recently, put the gum on the collector, this then means as you push it on the gum goes away from the join you can see and you don't end up with fire gum all over your primaries. I also put the collector on 'dry' just to get a feel of which way all the primaries needed to be persuaded to fit into the collector. Doug Edited by - DJG on 23 Apr 2009 16:38:30

dibs on the second tyre rack YHBM Doug

To be fair I did miss this bit of the investigative work out, here HTH Doug

Try here Wet day here,read bored/happy to help, and a quick search of the archives and this popped up. Let us know when you get her going. Doug

Yellow 21 M4 Junc 4 heading east into the traffic, about 08.30. It was only a quick rear view of the car, but the ducts behind the front wheels were a give away, I hope!! Doug

Try here I stumbled across these a while ago, haven't ordered anything yet though. Doug