AdamQ

I agree entirely about the SPA mirrors - best avoided in my opinion - they need a lot of additional work to turn them into what they should be in the first place. I bought some convex ones from eBay by Motamec a few years ago and they're greatly superior in my opinion - and were cheaper as far as I remember - unfortunately I can't find them to link to right now, but will have another look in the morning ... FWIW, Adam

Price reduced ... BTTT ...

Price reduced ... BTTT ...

Hi Gary, YHM ... Regards, Adam

For what it's worth, a defunct lambda sensor and a few minutes with an angle grinder make an excellent substitute for one of these ... Adam

R500-like torque for less than £17k... BRG with yellow nose hoop and bonnet stripe, yellow Caterham side-stripes 1999 De Dion Roadsport, bought by me in 2005 and converted by me in 2008 (and at 9,000 miles) to a 2.0 Duratec with 210 BHP and R500D-territory 179 lbf ft. Current mileage is 28,000 Pretty much a standard Raceline 210 BHP set-up: Jenvey throttle bodies Emerald K3 ECU Lightly ported head (work carried out by Ammo) Omega pistons Forged rods Raceline flywheel and clutch (cable-operated clutch - no inaccessible slave cylinders or bleedin' bleeding!) Raceline alternator (induction side) and belt tensioner Raceline water rail Raceline wet sump ARP bolts Raceline primaries with a Caterham R500 repackable silencer Powervamp battery and battery master switch No bonnet cut-out for the induction – cold air feed through an in-line K&N filter to an airbox BGH E7 2.8 sporting close gearbox with 2.66:1 first gear and 0.82:1 fifth. Hi-Spec Ultralite 4 front calipers with Mintex 1144 pads Virtually new 13” Performance Alloys Minator-style wheels with AO48 tyres (AO32s currently fitted to the front as the eagle-eyed will have spotted, but these will be changed) Green and yellow SB4S half hood, tonneau Spa wing mirrors Leather seats Standard interior, except mechanical Racetech OPG, stainless steel starter button and horn, Momo Caterham harnesses 5 ¾” headlights Aero filler cap FIA roll bar MoT until March 2017 The asking price is £16,950 and this includes the registration plate. I'm located a few miles to the west of Tunbridge Wells. I'm very happy, within reason(!), to carry out/help with any minor modifications that a buyer might want made to the car. If you are interested or have any questions, please don't hesitate to get in touch here or via private message or via 0781 007 3021 Many thanks, Adam http://www.blandings.net/images/t77cat/1.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/t77cat/2.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/t77cat/3.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/t77cat/4.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/t77cat/5.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/t77cat/6.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/t77cat/7.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/t77cat/8.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/t77cat/9.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/t77cat/10.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/t77cat/11.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/t77cat/12.jpg

BRG with yellow nose hoop and bonnet stripe Originally built by me as a 1.8 VX and converted by me last year to a 2.0 Zetec with 204 BHP: Twin 45 Webers Fully ported head Alpha Webcon ECU Lightweight flywheel Pocketed pistons ARP bolts Raceline wet sump and water rail Raceline exhaust 13000 miles (car owned by me from 1999-2005 and by my mother from 2005-2013) Live axle with adjustable rose-jointed shock absorbers. The front suspension has been converted from single top link to double wishbone. 13” Minator alloys SB4S half hood, tonneau Leather seats Leather steering wheel Heater I'm very happy, within reason(!), to carry out/help with any minor modifications that a buyer might want made to the car. It doesn't have an MoT at the moment, but will be MoTed by me (at my expense) as part of any deal that's done. Asking price is £9,000. I'm located a few miles to the west of Tunbridge Wells. If you are interested or have any questions, please don't hesitate to get in touch here or via private message or via 0781 007 3021. Many thanks, Adam www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/1.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/1.jpg www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/2.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/2.jpg www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/3.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/3.jpg www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/4.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/4.jpg www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/5.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/5.jpg www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/6.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/6.jpg www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/7.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/7.jpg www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/8.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/8.jpg www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/9.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/9.jpg www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/10.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/10.jpg www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/11.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/11.jpg www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/12.jpg http://www.blandings.net/images/q417kkl/12.jpg

Jon, YHM re. springs. Regards, Adam

Scrap-yard - in my experience they charge about £3.00 each so even if you get a duff one or two you're still a long way ahead of the game - pretty much anything with a K series will provide one ... FWIW ...

This might or might not be of interest (from ESDU 14001, "Applying, measuring and maintaining pretension in steel bolts"). Note that the accuracy figures relate to the pre-load induced in the bolt and not to the actual torque applied. http://www.blandings.net/images/14001t31.JPG

http://www.blandings.net/images/cat/BigRedkey-1.gif http://www.blandings.net/images/cat/BigRedkeyless-2.gif HTH ... Adam

These appear to be the problematic URLs: http://7faq.com/attachments/HowDoI/Wire%20a%20Start%20Button/BigRedkey-1.gif http://7faq.com/attachments/HowDoI/Wire%20a%20Start%20Button/BigRedkeyless-1.gif FWIW, I can't get them to work either ... Sorry I can't help with the diagrams themselves ... Adam

This is something I've had to do on occasions and it's always something I put off out of sheer terror. However, it's not so bad - mask with a few layers of masking tape or cardboard for acres around for the almost inevitable (in my case) slip and then a Dremel with a burr tool as suggested followed by a flapper wheel.

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Thanks Gents - fair enough - it really was a figure plucked out of the air and didn't seem particularly realistic to me, but you never know ... Open to offers should anybody feel inclined ... Regards, Adam

The reg. T77 CAT came with my Seven when I bought it second-hand oh so many years ago and is on the car now. Frankly, I have absolutely no idea what it's worth, but since protocol here insists that a price be put against all items listed for sale and since I was offered £2000 for it in 2005 I'm going to say £4250 + transfer fees and await feedback (if any!). I would of course throw in the plates themselves for that ...! The astute amongst you who interpret rather than obey rules will already have twigged that the initial 'T' might possibly be written as a '7' by a number-plate creator who should have gone to Specsavers ... Comments, remarks, advice, abuse all invited ... Many thanks, Adam

As here: http://www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_section.asp?SectionID=15&CategoryID=1 Brand new and still in its bubble-wrap (bought for a project but never used). I'm looking for £210 + p&p (it's £234 incl. VAT + p&p from Raceline). p&p will be at cost. Or it can be collected from Blackham near Tunbridge Wells or I'm happy to send via GONADS. Many thanks, Adam

I agree entirely with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" maxim. I also uphold the "if it isn't perfect, improve it" one ... Much of it boils down to peeling potatoes and slicing pineapples ...

I suspect it's been done before (though I've never seen mention of it), but today I reached the point of a rebuild where it was time to sort out the poppers for the boot. Partly because I shrank from the task of drilling holes in the nice new paintwork and partly because I've never particularly liked the boot poppers (too many of those uneasy moments where you're sure the female bit is going to pull off and stay on the male bit on the bodywork) I started thinking about alternatives ... Well, 10 × 5 mm round neodymium magnets slot into the female popper bits nicely. A dab of super glue on a corresponding magnet inside the boot and I seem to have a reasonably securely fastened boot cover ... Needs to be tested at speed of course, but ... I did add a circle of duct tape to the outer magnets to minimise the risk of scratching ... And there is the weight penalty of course - awfully dense stuff that nedymiumiumium ...! FWIW ... Adam

Hi Ian, I'll take this if I may. I'm not that far from you so I'll blatmail you to arrange collection some time soon. Many thanks, Adam

Aaaah, thank you for that - the perils of Google ...! I have to say that I was mystified by the complete absence of compression - and it really was zilch ... I even shoved a cork with a flag down the plug holes to see how high it jumped - equally high on all cylinders ... The fuel that is in there is a 4:1 mixture of fresh fuel from Texaco and some stuff of considerable vintage (12 months or more) so that makes sense. What puzzles me slightly is that the engine was cranked and cranked and cranked with no joy - it did seem to be the combination of the oil down the cylinders and the spinning it up to get the oil pressure up that did the trick - but then the oil probably helped to free the valves ... Regardless, it's going now ... Oil was fresh in - mineral for running in - "Drive it like you stole it from the word go" to quote the immortal Johnty Lyons!! Cylinder inspection is a non-trivial and not inexpensive task so I shall avoid that if i can given that the engine is now going, but I shall do another compression test just out of interest ... Thank you gentlemen for your input - greatly appreciated as always ... Regards, Adam

Hi Jonathan, Thanks for the follow up. All is well now - I meant to report, but it's been a busy week. The problem appears to have been fuel washing the bores clean resulting in a complete lack of compression. A compression test gave 210 psi on No. 1 and zero on the other cylinders. A 'wet test' (I think that's the term I saw used) with a few drops of oil squirted down the cylinders gave 210, 75, 45 and 10 psi for 1 to 4 respectively. The penny eventually dropped and the germ of an idea regarding the (inverse) relationship between the compression figures and distance from the oil pump formed ... I cranked the engine over with the coil-pack disconnected and the plugs out for a good long spell to get the oil pressure up (as I'd done before the first start on which occasion the engine started pretty much on the button) and lo and behold she sprang into life and has done on the three or four subsequent occasions I've fired her up. I think the problem was initially caused by repeated attempts to start the engine with a battery that wasn't quite up to the task - lots of cranking and fuel sloshing about and no firing ... The primaries are getting very hot (cherry red) pretty quickly suggesting a lean mixture I think. I'm pretty sure that's a fuel pressure issue: my map is for 3.3 bar but my regulator is set at 3.0 bar. All reasonably easily taken care of in the Emerald via the injection scaling page from what I can see. Thanks again, Adam

Thanks for the replies. All my measurements were at the gauge end. I've tried connecting the green terminal on the gauge directly to a 12 V supply and the other two terminals to earth - not a flicker ... That seems to confirm that all is not well with the gauge. Thanks again, Adam

Morning All, I'm after confirmation of a diagnosis regarding a fuel gauge. The tank is about a quarter full I believe. With the gauge plugged in, I'm getting 12.7 V on the green terminal, 2.8 V on the green/black sender terminal and earth on the earth terminal, but nothing on the gauge - the needle remains at rest on the left. When I short the green/black terminal to earth, the needle again remains at rest on the left. A search on here suggests that under these circumstances, it should read full. The readings I'm getting suggest to me a faulty gauge as opposed to sender/earth problems - would you agree? Many thanks, Adam

Thank you both for the replies. I agree entirely with the logic of what you're saying. I've double- and triple-checked the plug leads - to be honest, it'd be pretty difficult to get them wrong as you'd always be left with a lead that wouldn't reach a plug. It's a wasted spark system with a main feed and two wires, one for each side of the coil pack. Those wires haven't been switched (I'd remember because they're absolute pig to get out of the connector!) and, as I say, the car has run pretty well with the current configuration. I've unwrapped the wiring that I wrapped up and have re-checked continuities here, there and everywhere. I've also put the Emerald on another car to double-check the settings on that - that car started and ran fine. In taking the plugs out, I happened to notice that what I could see of pistons 1 and 4 was slightly black and sooty, with no. 4 also looking a bit oily. 2 and 3 were bright and shiny. I also happened to notice a patch of oil on the floor below the point where Primary No. 4 enters the collector ... To me this suggests valve stem oil seals, but I've no idea to be honest. I guess a compression test is the next logical step. I've definitely got a spark on all four cylinders so I guess I need to check that not only one pair of injectors is firing - I'm sure I've seen white puffs out of all four trumpets, but I could be wrong. What still puzzles me is that all that has happened since the car was last running nicely (well, reasonably!) (see http://www.blandings.net/images/cat/WP_20160131_16_54_08_Pro.mp4) is that the wiring has been 'tidied': I still have fuel and a spark so why no go? Ho hum - I'm sure it'll be something daft and obvious ... Thanks, Adam