AdamQ

Good morning, I'll take this if it's still available please. Regards, Adam

Good morning, Is this still available or has it gone? Regards, Adam

TWOTW is correct - it is indeed the whole assembly - case, internals the lot. The diff is now sold. Thank you all for your interest and assistance. Adam

For sale on behalf of a friend, a brand new Raceline Duratec oil filter housing. Details here This is the M12 × 1.5 variant and comes complete with bolts and gasket. £60 plus p&p (£95 + VAT from Raceline) or collection from Horsham or Sevenoaks. Any questions please ask. Many thanks, Adam

Thanks Olly - original post edited to provide a bit more information (and spelling of Olly changed to your version!) ...!

For sale Titan Sierra 3.92 limited slip differential with ‘Sintrak’ friction plates. Built by Road and Race Transmissions fewer than 1300 road miles ago. Full information here. The pre-load has been checked by Olly at R&R since removal and found to be correct. £750 ono I'd prefer collection from Sevenoaks, Kent, but will post at cost if necessary. I can also move it to the Horsham area fairly easily if that helps. I you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask them. Many thanks, Adam

Hi Ed, Apologies for the delayed response. I've sent you a PM. Adam

Apologies - should have said - Ital ...

On behalf of a friend. One live axle half-shaft. Free. Collection only from either Horsham or Sevenoaks. Adam

I'd use cap-head bolts for the seatbelt/harness mounting bolts and Araldite some popper bases into the tops of those and use those to secure the boot cover at the front. Or you could just drill into the standard normal harness bolts and rivet a popper onto the top of those. Or just Araldite without drilling if you have concerns about potentially weakening the harness bolts. FWIW ... Adam

I'll jump in on the proviso that it's understood that I'm mildly experienced but no expert in any way, shape or form ... Regarding the air intake, I have Jenvey TBs getting their air through an in-line K&N from under the radiator - no bonnet cut-out (and it's an Imperial S3). I believe Jenveys are about half the cost of the full RBTBs. I'm not sure they influence power greatly, but I think the throttle response is supposedly somewhat sharper. I can't see why you'd need a rolling road session or a new ECU with this change, but it might be that you would and there would probably be benefits, minor or medium. As for exhausts, Powerspeed are always well spoken of - I have a 4-2-1 from them - I think the 4-2-1 is supposed to give better torque than a 4-1 but I also seem to remember Chris at Raceline telling me a while ago that the gains were marginal, bordering on negligible. I've had two Duratec-engined Sevens. The engines were identical except that one had a mildly ported head. BHP figures were the same, but the torque for the engine with the modified head was significantly higher, so maybe that would be an idea. My understanding is that the Duratec flows very well even in standard form, but there appear to be improvements to be had - though I'm not going to suggest any certainty on the basis of a single data point. I guess a 2017 car has the Mazda gearbox? I don't know what the ratios in that are, but if they're not similar to the ratios available from Tracsport for the Type 9, I'd be very tempted to be looking in that direction for an improved 'driving experience'. Those are my thoughts, for what they are worth ... Adam

This is a truly great club with truly great people - it has been for ages. Over the years there have been some exceptionally knowledgeable people on here - and there still are (I'd love to include myself, but I most certainly do not). What irks me the most is that that knowledge has become frequently inaccessible because links prior to whenever are now redundant (and I acknowledge that in some/many cases those links would lead to a 404 Page not found error, but there's still wheat amongst the chaff ...). When one finds oneself hunting out archived copies of the site to retrieve information that one knows was once readily available there's something wrong. I repeat: great club, great people (and fantastic cars). Adam

Here, here - split wanted and for sale, sort out a decent search facility and please, please, please restore all the broken links.

David, I don't think there are any disadvantages whatsoever - I think it's an eminently sensible route. The only possible drawback is the factor that the car becomes non-Caterham spec which could be perceived as a drawback if you ever come to sell it. Personally, my feeling is that not being tied to Caterham and their rather petty attitude about locking ECUs and what have you is a plus point and commands a resell bonus rather than a discount. You mention that the SBD option is a similar cost - I'm slightly surprised by that - from Raceline (whom I'd recommend highly) cams, verniers and ECU would be about £1100 I think (probably plus VAT I suppose). In short, I'd have no hesitation in following the SBD or other (non-Caterham) route ... FWIW, Adam

They look most impressive - very smart and professional indeed. I'd be very interested in some more details of how you made the support structure.

I had a similar sporadic problem on a Roadsport a while ago. The first cause was a corroded fuel pump fuse. And then I had trouble caused by a bad earth connection at the connector near the pump (I think that was self-inflicted from when I'd been shoving a multimeter probe in there to check the earth - I think I splayed the female connector just enough to cause a dodgy contact). In the meantime, I bypassed the inertia switch by just joining the wires that go into it together. FWIW ...

I don't find them particularly effective, but they do make some difference and I prefer them to doors in the summer. I didn't bend them in hot water or with a heat gun, but rather attached a piece of bent Al bar coated in shrink wrap to the lower bolt of the lower hinge attachments: all seems perfectly stable and is (semi-)adjustable (I was concerned about the deflector chafing the paint where it made contact with the sideskin) ...

I can't comment on the Hi-Specs I'm afraid, but I do know that VW Golf Mk IV calipers are fine with 13" wheels ...

I went for 2.29 for first gear and don't regret it at all (my diff is 3.92). I didn't do the needle-bearing upgrade. I'm not aware of a kit to key the crank. I don't think there's any concern whatsoever for a stock Duratec (or even a moderately highly tuned one - as mentioned above, as far as is known, Caterham don't key any of their Duratec models) - I only had mine done for convenience. A decent machine shop should be able to do it fairly easily and cheaply - just to give an idea (I know it's not a geographically viable option for you) Dunnell offer the service for £85 + £8 for the key ...

Garth, from memory, my decision was based on cost and usage - regarding the latter mainly road with the odd track day and regarding the former, and I might very well be wrong here in which case I apologise to those concerned, the Titan wasn't a huge number of pennies more than the ATB whereas the Tracsport LSD was - not massively maybe, but significantly (from memory). I'm not really sufficiently well-informed to offer opinions on these things, but I agree with '7 Wonders of the World' - I believe that the Tracsport unit is extremely well engineered. I also believe, based on various conversations and what I've read (and my experience so far), that if the Titan is properly set up and maintained well it does its job excellently. Decisions, decisions ...!

In standard form the cam sprocket is indeed only clamped in place - between two diamond-studded (bling bling!) friction washers. I don't know at what level of tune it's considered essential to key the crank - I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure the factory 420 crank isn't keyed - I'd be interested to know whether or not the CSR crank is. In my case I did get the crank keyed retrospectively, not because it slipped or because I was even worried about it slipping, but rather for convenience because without a key you lose all the timing if you take things apart (during an oil pump change for example) and it's difficult to reassemble accurately given the massive torques involved (perhaps I should say that I found it difficult ...). FWIW ...

I rebuilt my 1999 De Dion Duratec a couple of years ago and decided to pay some attention to the gearbox and diff. My usage is similar to yours. I did my research and arrived at exactly the same configuration as you have. I went to see Phil at Road and Race with my gearbox and left with just one part of the configuration changed: I went for a plate type LSD (Titan I think (definitely not the Tracsport one)) as opposed to the ATB based on a discussion with Phil. I've never driven a car with an ATB so can't make any comparison. All I can say is that I'm extremely happy with the LSD I have got. The plate LSD vs ATB question seems to evoke strong passions in people (especially Steve at Tracsport!). You're right about the Tracsport gearkit - it's heavenly (and I went from modified BGH ratios, not from a standard Type 9 and the difference is still a quantum leap). I'm sure you're already aware of this, but, given that you've already got the TBs/Jenveys, with a change of cams, some uprated springs and some ARP bolts on the bottom end, you've got an easy jump to about 210 BHP - it's documented here somewhere, but I'm pretty sure that's all Caterham do to go from standard to 420 spec for the Duratec cars. Good luck with is all! Adam

Thanks Jonathan - I'm OK with the colours, I just wondered what the traffic light thing with two filled circles and a hollow one represented. The NY wire appears to go to Pin 25 of the ECU which is a 'Programmable I/O Pin'. I was wondering if the traffic light represented shift lights ... Adam

I'm sure it should be obvious, but can anybody tell me what the thing ringed red below is? Many thanks, Adam

This is something that has always puzzled me. You see in tintop handbooks tyre pressures for normal and heavily laden conditions, say 22 and 27 psi or something. I'd always assumed that it was the extra load in the car that caused the increase in the tyre pressure, NOT that one was expected to add air to the tyres when carrying a lot of extra weight. However, the general consensus seems to be that you ARE expected to pump the tyres up when loading the car heavily. I can see arguments for both opinions - stick an elephant in the back of a Seven, and I'm sure the tyre pressures will increase, without any air being added to the tyres - stand on a balloon and the pressure in the balloon goes up. PV = nRT rings a very vague bell as something possibly relevant to this, but that's as far as I can go. I suspect my take is wrong, but I would be interested in the take of others on this.