AdamQ

Hi Andrew, All good here thank you - I hope the same is true of you? Many thanks indeed for the confirmation (I was rather hoping you'd be a long at some point ...!). I took the plunge yesterday and ordered the 40Ω version and it arrived today. I'll wire it in on Friday and report back ... Thanks again, Adam

It's on a Duratec conversion and was supplied ten years ago by Raceline - I think at that time they were using 80A Nippon Denso alternators from Daihatsu Charades or something, but I'm not sure and I don't have specific details. What I have found is that connecting the original (non-LED) ignition bulb between the NY wire on the alternator and +ve on the battery solves the problem. Assuming that bulb is 4W, by my calculations a resistance of ~36 Ohms is required ...

I've fallen foul of the problem of the alternator not being activated having replaced the ignition/alternator light with an LED version. I've found the various useful threads in the archives about diagnosis and solution and just wanted to check that the 40 Ohm version of one of these is what I need (I've linked to the 50 Ohm version because there's not a nice picture of the 40 Ohm version): https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/8916417/ Many thanks, Adam

Gentlemen, thank you both very much - between you have provided just what I was after (my previous Googling led me to SBD, but a different page where I took pot luck and ended up on a wild goose chase and was ultimately over-powered by the pong of red herrings ...!). To explain, I'm trying to map the ECU wiring from the factory (locked) MBE to an (unlocked and therefore programmable) Emu ECU. Thanks again, Adam

Andy, Apologies for the delay - I've just looked and I'm afraid the submarine I have only has one funnel - sorry about that ... And I remember being similarly bemused by all this talk of submarines and funnels when I was in a similar position to you!

As per the subject, would anybody happen to have either or both? Many thanks ... Adam

My first 7 (bought in 1999) was a VX engined car - this is going back a bit, but I'm reasonably certain I remember correctly ... 1) Does it run an ECU? Yes - it's mounted on the scuttle bulkhead close to the steering column from memory. 3) I have bought a heater on here, does anybody have either a manual or an extract of a manualthat will show me how to connect it to the cooling system? I retro-fitted a heater to mine - all I can remember is that a three-funnel submarine and a load of 5/8" ID (I think) rubber hose was required - and a bleed tee is probably a good idea. I might still have the submarine - I'll check tomorrow. Not very definitive I'm afraid, but some help I hope ... Adam

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Hi Andrew, I'll take the Luke harnesses if I may please. I'll email you shortly about payment etc. Many thanks, Adam

That's great - really useful - many thanks indeed to you both. Adam

I'm in the process of building a (new) Seven 420. The engine will not be a Caterham-supplied unit, but will be Caterham 420 spec and will use the standard Caterham ECU. My mind is turning to the various senders/sensors that I will need. What I'm after I suppose are details of which are bespoke Caterham and which are not. In the latter case, any part numbers or details of the vehicles they are from would be extremely useful. So far I have the following list. Throttle Position Sensor (already sourced) Crankshaft Position Sensor (already sourced) Water Temperature Sensor (ECU) Water Temperature Sensor (gauge) Air Temperature Sensor Oil Pressure Sender Lambda Sensor Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (if used?) (Caterham parts lists a 'MAP SENSOR - R400 DURATEC SVA' - that's surely not suggesting it's an SVA requirement is it??) Any information would be gratefully received. Many thanks, Adam

If it's not already present, heat-shielding for the rear of the engine bay and the transmission tunnel is the only thing that springs to my mind. I appreciate that accepted practice for many is to change the CRB whenever the engine comes out, but if it was me I wouldn't bother after so few miles. FWIW ... Adam

Hi Ian, By my measurements, the sump-block interface is about 7-8 mm lower than the top of the circular-section chassis rail that forms the leg of the Y going off to the footwell ... I hope that's clear - let me know if it's not ... I hope the snow clears soon! Adam

I don't know the answer to your question (I have the Raceline housing) but would be happy to take some pictures of the engine in situ with a strategically placed ruler if that would help ...? Adam

Hi Tom, Aah, I didn't think of that ... However, it is a surmountable problem - see here: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/acoustafil-good-stuff where there's a description of what I did and a link to an original post on tackling the problem by DJ. It sounds like a major operation, but it's not too bad and was easier than I expected it to be when I actually knuckled down and did it. Hope it might help ... Adam

Tom, Many thanks for the update - much appreciated and it's good to have most or all of the information provided confirmed categorically. Very glad to hear you're pleased with the upgrade ... I expect you're already aware of it, but re. the exhaust, repacking with Acoustafil might be an initial option that's worth exploring - it's excellent stuff from a noise point of view in my experience. Thanks again, Adam

I have high-impedance Bosch IWO31 injectors on my (Raceline) 210 Duratec and they are 330 cc/min @ 3 bar which is 254 g/min by my reckoning. Another - probably not very helpful - data point ...

Hi Ian, I've just measured mine (short input shaft with the short (but not compact) bell-housing) and the shaft projects about 3.5 mm beyond the face of the bell-housing - basically all but about a mm of the chamfered bit is proud of the face. I hope that helps ... Adam

I have a very vague and sketchy recollection that it might be related to the oil pump ... Again, apologies - you can't get much more non-commital than the statement above ...!

From distant memory, it's one of those things where it looks like there are several possible ways of fitting it, but when one tries it can only be assembled one way. The only useful thing I can remember is that there are several O-rings that look similar but are different and fitting the pick-up pipe is a great deal easier with the correct O-ring ...! Sorry, probably not a great deal of help, but FWIW ... Adam

Hi Tom, You've not missed the point of my question at all but rather have hit it spot on - many thanks for the very comprehensive information - all very useful indeed and answers many if not all of the questions swimming around what I call my brain ... John, thanks for the additions - also very useful. Adam

Thank you John and Geoff - much appreciated. Yes, I was thinking a call to Tony was probably be the way forward - these questions always seem to crop up at the weekend though ... I was prepared for a fairly large figure - was just interested to know how large it was and what you got for it, e.g. whether or not you got a keyed crank with the 420, whether or not the ECU was programmable, things like that. And how it compared to the likes of the offerings from Raceline, Omex/Burton/Cosworth, Dunnell, Premier Power etc. acknowledging that if one had intentions of ever selling back to Caterham (which I wouldn't), that that is a factor. Thanks again. Adam

Would anybody happen to have details - what's included and prices - of the Caterham factory Duratec 360 and 420 engine packs/kits? I'd also be interested in the differences between the sports and standard suspension options. Any info would be much appreciated ... Thanks, Adam

I don't know if it's always the case, but on my car the honeycomb was required to provide a level base for the seat because there's a diagonal chassis tube across the floor, above the Al floor skin. If you don't have the diagonal chassis tube, I don't see why the honeycomb shouldn't be removed, though, going by a recently re-skinned car I've seen, some Al channel section riveted under the floor, mirroring the seat-runners, might not be a bad idea. I assume, given your son's height, that you need to be able to adjust the seat otherwise I'd suggest ditching the runners and simply fixing the seat in position - with a bit of 'modification' to the seat base that could buy you some height (and save some weight ...). FWIW ... Adam

Just to say that I've now implemented the circuits/arrangements detailed above by Andrew and both hazards and wipers worked first time without a hitch. I used this from eBay for the hazards: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/sourcingmap-JQX-10F-3Z-DC-12V-Coil-Voltage-3PDT-Power-Relay-10A-w-Socket/182614789354?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Here's the diagram above with the terminal numbers on the 3PDT relay mapped across: and here it is in situ (with the relays for the wipers mounted beside it): A final vote of thanks to Andrew for yet another set of faultless instructions. Adam