AdamQ

Hi Andrew, Once again, fantastic! Just the sort of fool-proof guidance this electrical dope needs - can't thank you enough for your time and effort in providing such a comprehensive solution and the instructions to effect it ... I've ordered the various parts required and, for once (I usually dread it), I am looking forward to a bit of cutting, crimping and heat-shrinking ... Thanks again, Adam

Assuming you mean the one that you access from behind the seats (and I can't think what else you might mean) I'm 99% certain you need a 3/8 in Allen key for imperial cars ... Adam

Fantastic! To my very limited understanding of these things, that looks like the perfect solution ... Thank you! Whilst I have your attention, could I beg your help with the wipers and lights (I sort of think I've got them sorted but ...). I'm replacing the Off-On-On rocker switch in each case with two latching Off-On switches (one for slow wipers/sidelights and the other for fast wipers/main beam) - might you be able to do one of your idiots' guides as above for those? Eternally grateful ... Adam

As part of my rebuild, I've naively/ambitiously gone for some LED push-button switches in place of the standard rocker switches; apart from the blues for the lights being out of stock I think I've almost cracked it with the exception of the hazard switch - getting a standard latching switch to do what the rocker switch does is going to be a bit like doing heart surgery with a butter knife as far as I can tell - thought I'd found a cunning electrical gizmo from CBS but it's just a plastic mechanical botch that won't work with my switches. Apart from keeping a red flag and an orange triangle in the boot does anybody have any suggestions? Many thanks, Adam

I think they overlapped didn't they? I bought a live axle kit new from Caterham in 1999 and that had trunnions and the De Dion Seven I currently have, which was also bought new in 1999, has the existing wishbone set-up. Or did the De Dion cars originally have trunnions and you're asking when they were changed to the existing set-up? If that's the case, then I'm afraid I don't know the answer. I converted my live axle car to a double top wishbone set-up and that was a very straightforward process. I can't remember if that involved changing the uprights, but I think it probably did (ISTR trying to sell the old uprights at some point). In the hope that that's of some help at least ... Adam

I don't use either a steering lock or an ignition key so, as part of my rebuild and drive to add lightness, I've removed most of the steering lock tube, only keeping the bit that houses the lower bush (the upper one being housed in the lower dashboard hoop). FWIW I use washing-up liquid as a lubricant ... Adam

For the records so to speak ... A search of the archives suggested that the steering column bushes were Caterham-specific parts. I'm pleased to say, however, that they are not. They are the same as are used for the following: Triumph TR4-6 Triumph Spitfire to 1977 Herald/GT6/Vitesse Lotus Elan Part No. 209423 FWIW ... Adam

Hi, I'll take this if I may please. I'll send you a message to sort out the logistics, payment etc. Many thanks, Adam

You're spot on with that - it was the sleeves in the bushes that were causing the problems (though the 3 mm difference was measured between the faces of the metal tubes that house the bushes so is a genuine difference). All sorted now - without the need to resort to too much persuasion ... Many thanks.

Does anybody know whether or not the top wishbones were changed at any point for narrow track imperial De Dion cars? The Caterham parts website suggests not, but I bought a second-hand set a while ago from a 1996 car to replace the rather tatty items on my 1999 car and there's a 3 mm difference in the distance between the mounts. This seems to be somewhat more than one would expect from 'manufacturing tolerances' and it certainly looks like a fair bit of persuasion would be required to get them to fit - if indeed any amount of persuasion would do it. Thanks, Adam

Does anybody happen to know the size and/or a source of the two rivets that secure the upright bit of the scuttle/the vertical engine bay bulkhead to the chassis either side of the steering column? I could obviously use a couple of nuts and bolts, but ... Thanks ...

Please may I have first dibs on the harnesses and the half hood? Are the harnesses unfaded? Re. the hood, is it just plain black (without coloured piping or reflectors or anything)? Many thanks, Adam

Spotted yesterday afternoon - I think I heard you drive off at about five ...

I have some AO48s - 185/60/13. They're past the first fine flush of youth, but E marked. Four are just tyres, two with a decent amount of tread, two with not a great deal, and two are on rims (which are also for sale) and have a decent amount of tread. The numbers/letters on them are as follows: D2603U -2 M 80H DOT FCF3 0222290 And the four tyres are marked NT23907 And the two on rims with NT21806 ​Please let me know if you're interested or require further information. I'm just south of Sevenoaks so not a million miles from you. Adam 0781 007 3021

Duncan, your post was invaluable - I'd still be in a tug-of-war now with the silencer without it - and the keyhole Dremel surgery idea was inspired in my opinion ...

Hi Ian, It needed some surgery - I basically followed what DJ did here: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/can-standard-silencer-be-repacked-yes-it-can-see-post-8 I drilled out the rivets and then used a Dremel with a cutting disc down the tube to cut through the perforated tube within the can, near the end. Then it all just pulled apart. I didn't do what DJ did for re-assembly - his riveted hexagon thing - I just riveted a ~2" strip of metal to the cut end of the perforated tube for the other cut end to locate into IYSWIM and then riveted up the outer bit. With the silencer not mounted on the car there's nothing holding it together, but with it mounted on the car I can't really see it coming adrift. To be sure, a ring of rivets around the other end of the can might not be a bad idea. It all sounds like a lot of faffing, but it wasn't too bad - the hardest part was trying to hold the Dremel a constant distance into the can - a deep single-pass cut rather than multiple shallows ones seemed to be the best approach (and fortunately one is working on an area that can't be seen when it's put back together ...!). I hope that might be useful ... Adam

I'm just mentioning this in the interests of adding a data point ... I wasn't allowed on track at Brands Hatch about ten days ago as I was too noisy: 102+ dB at 5400 RPM. After spending half a day getting into the blessed thing, I repacked the Caterham R500D silencer with Acoustafil and went back a week later: 95.8 dB at 5400 RPM ... Car is a 2.0 Duratec ... FWIW ...

My starter motor gave up the ghost yesterday. I'm pretty sure it is the motor itself as bypassing the solenoid with an old screwdriver didn't do the trick. What generally goes wrong with these things? Are they repairable or considered throw-away items these days (I've found a new one on eBay for £60)? Symptoms are that the solenoid clicks and then there's absolutely no further activity at all. It's not the battery as when I cannibalised the starter motor from another engine it started just like that.

On the imperial cars, the bolt is 3/8" - not sure about the metric cars, but I'd imagine 8 or 10 mm ...

I've got one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jump-Starter-Portable12V-20000mAh-Car-Booster-Charger-Battery-Power-Bank-Engine-/322528966639?hash=item4b183977ef It's useful and has got me out of trouble a few times with starting a 1.8 K - it struggled when the battery was completely flat (but there might have been other factors - the K series click), but for an almost flat battery it gives out enough ooomph to get things going. And it's very handy on days out when your child has flattened the tablet battery and watching some TV programme is a matter of life and death to them ...!

These are what I bought recently: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIRSTLINE-FSG3033-STEERING-GAITER-KIT-for-Ford-Talbot-Vauxhall/302295974276?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Hi Chris, Many thanks indeed for the comprehensive response - greatly appreciated and very helpful. I've found some threaded steel balls of about the right size - I'm going to try cutting the rectangular slot bit off the ends of the cables and then round and maybe thread the remaining bit and then screw and solder the balls on. We'll see - if that doesn't work, Speedy Cables will get a call ... As luck would have it, I've just bought some flexible rear brake lines. You're right about the thread into the VW calipers - it appears to be M12 × 1.0. I was expecting clearance issues with 13" 8 spokes - it's good to have it confirmed - there appears to be plenty of material that could be safely removed. Thanks again, Adam

I'm in the process of switching from standard Sierra rear calipers to the VW Golf Mk IV calipers. I just wondered what folks who've already done this did to solve the problem of the different handbrake attachment at the caliper end. Need to go from this: http://images.lteplatform.com/images/products/600x600/108590268.jpg to this: http://media.carparts4less.co.uk/images/products/600x600/108441548.jpg I'm struggling to find just the nipples that could be soldered onto the existing cable. Best thought so far is to drill out an appropriately-sized bolt and solder that on, but any alternative suggestions would be welcome ... Many thanks.

Hi Ruth, Many thanks for the pictures - much appreciated. I'm afraid they're not quite what I'm after so I'll pass on this occasion. Good luck with the sale ... Regards, Adam

Hi Ruth, Are these the Caterham 8 spoke wheels or the Minilite-style wheels? What are the widths of the wheels? Have you any pictures you can post or email? Please forgive all the questions ...! If they are 6 or 7" 8 spokes, please may I have first dibs. Regards, Adam