AdamQ

Hi John, You have mail ... Regards, Adam

That's way beyond my DIY skills... Unless you're absolutely adamant about not doing this yourself, I really would consider it - engine removal IMVHO is one of those tasks that sounds daunting but when one gets down to it really isn't too involved at all - using common sense as to where, just break (in a reversible way!) all the links between the engine and the rest of the car (draining the coolant takes place automatically during this process!), labelling things electrical along the way, and then lift and pull, lift and pull. (Sometimes, e.g. engine mounts, it's easier to break the links in two places (i.e. chassis and block ends) to give a bit more room for manoeuvre.) JV estimates the entire job at 4 hours - even if it takes you 16 it's only a weekend and if you run into trouble there are lots of kind souls here who'll help (and hopefully one who'll lend you an engine crane). Removal can be done alone if necessary, but an extra pair of hands is definitely useful when putting it back in (which really is just the reverse of removal with a bit more skin off the knuckles as you joggle the engine to get it to mate with the gearbox (and you won't have disturbed the clutch plate so there'll be no messing about with aligning things there)). And you can tell SWMBO that you've saved X00 pounds and spend some on her and some on an upgrade ... Just my thoughts for what they are worth ... Adam Edited by - AdamQ on 7 Apr 2014 14:55:18

This is a vague and distant memory dredged up from the darkest and dimmest recesses of what I call my mind, but I seem to recall a similar problem and it was down to the new sender being very slightly larger in diameter than the old one and the sender body was fouling on something - can't remember or think what it might have been - as I tried to screw it in. Thought it worth mentioning as you seem to have all but eliminated thread differences and 'when one has eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth' ...

Price reduced.

Price reduced

Many thanks to all for all these useful contributions and data points. They help to clarify the picture - I think ❗ (And in my heart of hearts I think I know I'm simply trying to justify the expense of the upgrade and the nicer ratios to myself - if truth be told ...) Thanks again, Adam

Safety devices roll cage for an imperial chassis with strut, side impact bar and fittings. Pictures here, here and here £295. Collection only I guess from RH13 though I'd be more than happy to do whatever I can to help with transport in terms of getting it to the M25 or wherever. Please blatmail or call 0781 007 3021. Cheers, Adam

I've done a bit of a search through the archives on this, but haven't really found anything conclusive. I suppose my question is this: putting the 'better' ratios factor aside for the moment, at what power level (strictly I guess that should be torque level) does it become necessary rather than simply desirable to upgrade the standard Type 9 5 speed gearbox? Or putting it another way, is the upgrading that most people who are going for a significant increase in power seem to do done simply as a pre-emptive 'good idea' or is it because of a significant number of failures in the early days? Cheers, Adam

Elie, I confess that I thought exactly the same as you about it being on the wrong side of the thermostat until I looked. I agree though that using the metal connection would be neater (at least in my installation - there are dipstick tubes and throttle cables and all sorts of gubbins near the plastic outlet ...)

Let me start by saying that I find the business of pricing stuff both time-consuming and somewhat hit and miss so if I'm wildly out on anything please feel free to make an offer (with, of course, comprehensive supporting documentation as to why the offer is so low!!). Standard K series exhaust with black guard, 4 into 1 manifold, gasket and lambda sensor (no idea if it's narrow band, wide band or Alice band - it's got four wires coming out of it is all I can tell you I'm afraid!) - £220 Sold K series throttle cable in good to very good condition - £25 (£57 from CC) Sold K series clutch cable in good to very good condition - £15 (£26.40 from CC) Sold K series engine mounts in good to very good condition - £85 £70 (£120 from CC) P&P at cost or GONADS or collection from RH13. Please blatmail or call 0781 007 3021. Thanks, Adam Edited by - AdamQ on 4 Apr 2014 11:16:03

These can be used to make a picture of a mutant Mr Man smoking a pipe whilst raising a quizzical eyebrow as here or some people have, I believe, used them to transfer coolant between engine and radiator ... This is the kit for a K series - £141.50 from Merlin (without clamps). £100 £110 including the five clamps in the picture or £85 for just the hoses (three of the ends were secured with 'standard' Jubilee clips (with smooth not serrated bores so no marks or damage to the hoses)). P&P at cost or GONADS or collection from RH13. Please blatmail or call 0781 007 3021. Thanks, Adam Edited by - AdamQ on 4 Apr 2014 11:05:56

It's a bit of a lash up at the moment and the bypass currently uses the plastic connection and the heater take-off elbow on the water rail. In due course, I was planning to copy the standard Ford set-up and use the Ford hose from the metal pipe to another metal pipe coming down out of the water rail at the back of the head (below the coil pack). Out of interest, why the preference for using the metal pipe? Is it to do with diameter or just an innate preference for metal over plastic?! Adam

Bypass installed and all is well - splendid! Cheers, Adam

Thank you both for your help - it looks like the bypass might be the key to the problem. I shall try it and see what happens ... Thanks again, Adam

In brainless bolt-on mode today, I decided to fit a purely mechanical thermostat in a plastic housing to my 2.0 Duratec in the location that Ford use in the standard installation, i.e. adjacent to the water pump inlet. I then removed the thermostat from just below the filler neck of the Raceline water rail. I did this as the coolant takes an age to warm up and various posts I've read suggest that the fairly remote location of the thermostat in the Raceline rail is a cause/contributing factor. Having made the changes, I refilled with coolant/bled the system and did the standard run up to temperature to check for leaks, that the fan comes on etc. No leaks and no fan either. The reason there was no fan was that the radiator wasn't getting hot (despite an indicated coolant temperature approaching 100°C). Thinking it all through, I can't see how the system that I've now got would ever work: the thermostat is sitting between the (cool) outlet of the radiator and the inlet of the water pump and so it's never really likely to come into contact with coolant that's sufficiently warm to open it is it? And yet, barring a few bypass pipes and what have you, I believe I've got something similar to the standard Ford set up. Ah, - wait a minute - does that system take a temperature input from somewhere else on the circuit (somewhere hot) and then open the thermostat electronically? I do believe it might ... But the purely mechanical version is used in some installations so there must be a way of getting it to work ... As ever, any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Adam

JV, your deduction is, as ever, spot on - that is indeed the number that is not recognised. I don't think the time has yet come for a visit to 221b Baker Street - instead I shall simply visit Autoprop next week as I'm due to be passing that way anyway. I shall report any unusual footprints or distinctive cigarette ash ...! Adam

On the off-chance that anybody can help ... I'm trying to get hold of Autoprop in East Grinstead. The number on their own website and on Yell etc. is not recognised and the fax number is dead; so far I've had no response to a message sent on Monday. I know from a reliable source that they were in business late last year so thought I'd turn to the POBC for any grapevine information that might be around ... Cheers, Adam

Thanks Ian Now to decide whether it's time for a visit to eBay for a 3/8 Allen socket or grinder to a 10 mm one ... (Barely a single imperial/AF tool to be found in Halfrauds these days ...) Thanks again, Adam

Afternoon All, I have a Seafety Devices cage on a 2000 car and I am simply after confirmation that these have a thin-headed securing bolt up into the cage just above the top shock absorber mount, as the FIA bars do? Many thanks, Adam

Hi Scott, YHM as they say. Regards, Adam

Reduced - BTTT

I have for sale a pair of live axle rear spring-shock absorber assemblies from a 1999 VX Classic. Visually they're as you'd expect for the age. They've only covered 13000 road miles and there are no signs of any leaks. It's difficult to assess the condition of the bottom bushes, but the top ones look perfectly reusable to me. I'm looking for £100 £75 or thereabouts for the pair + p&p (or GONADS or collection from near Horsham). Regards, Adam Edited by - AdamQ on 26 Feb 2014 11:03:49

Thanks for the replies - that's useful stuff and I'll do the not running tests shortly (the running ones will have to wait a while I suspect!). A bit more information: there is negligible resistance between the large terminal and the remote one (not the one next to it) and high resistance between the others. As has been pointed out, I was talking through my hat about switched +ves - one connector will almost certainly be for the charge warning light. I'm going to have another look for some markings on the thing. Adam

I'm just after a bit of help/confirmation regarding alternator wiring. I can't see a make anywhere on the alternator or any other markings for that matter. It has a large and a small male spade connection next to each other and another small male spade connection remote from the others (pretty much directly opposite near the perimeter). I'm assuming that the large and small next to each other both go off to +ve (via the solenoid) and that the remote one is connected to the switched +ve from the ignition - does this sound right? Cheers, Adam

As the subject says. 13000 miles, assiduously serviced, came with my first Caterham build in 1999 (only 13000 miles - disgraceful - I've done better since!). Quoted at 126 BHP AFAIR Used on the road by me until 2005 and then my Mother (70 last birthday) bought the car off me and used it until 2011 (one gentle track day at Goodwood in 2009); in dry storage until now. Started first time off jump leads and covered 40 faultless miles before the engine was removed a few weeks ago. Full engine less carbs and exhaust, but with everything else including clutch, flywheel, crank position sensor etc. (alternator as well though one of the mount holes is worn). Engine mounts at no extra cost. I was looking for around £500 for the lot but will consider any serious offers Bosch coil £30 with engine, £35 separately. SOLD Standard Type 9 5-speed gearbox, as provided by Caterham with the original kit, £200 with engine, £225 separately (gearstick not included) VX to Live Axle propshaft - £35 with engine, £42 separately. Collection only for the big bits (though happy to pallet if anybody wants to arrange the other details). Otherwise collection from Horsham, GONADS or P&P at cost. 0781 007 3021 or AdamQ at blandings dot net Regards, Adam Edited by - AdamQ on 4 Feb 2014 17:39:33