Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

RD

Account Inactive
  • Posts

    359
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by RD

  1. All, Question: does anyone know if you can access the UJ grease nipples from above by removing any part of the cockpit. But with a swoopy dash specifically. My CSR has the lower cover plate; and to be complete its got the heat reflection stuff, carpets, and its blue. Thanks
  2. Is the Tapatalk plugin enabled on blatchat (for iPhone)?
  3. I just changed my gearbox (6 speed); I do it every year. I use Caterham's gear oil which is an EP80. The gearchange always feels much smoother after the change of oil. The diff I usually topup with caterham diff oil which is EP90; I mix it with their Lub Guard as I have a LSD. If you want to change it then you will need a Pela pump; Amazon does one for ~2 £25). You can see how to do it on the attached links here Rob Edited by - RD on 1 Jan 2012 17:36:22
  4. Alan, there is many a thread on blatchat about whether (or not) to disconnect the battery from the car when using battery conditioners over the long period. I do not have a strong view on this, but as my Seven has a battery isolation switch fitted it is a simple task to remove this when charging; it effectively does the same task as disconnecting the battery. I think my perspective is that if the car isn’t being used on the road for six months, then it simply seems the right thing to do as a precaution. As my Seven is currently up on axle stands undergoing its winter service, leaving the Optimate on is something I do each year. Rob
  5. I agree with GJT, I have an Optimate 4 and have found it great all through the 6 months SORN. I simply isolate using the battery 'kill switch' and leave it on over the winter. The CTEK gets equally good reviews; so the choice is yours. Rob Edited by - RD on 11 Dec 2011 11:06:36
  6. Either cable of hydraulic; if its parked up for the winter then simply get in it every couple of weeks and press the clutch pedal down several times. Do the same with the brake pedal while your sat in there, assuming it is not up on axle stands. If it is then poke your left leg in and press the pedal!! Rob Edited by - RD on 16 Oct 2011 21:26:25
  7. Interesting... I don't have one of these on my CSR200. Rob Edited by - RD on 9 Oct 2011 13:17:04
  8. As above about 8:30 sat morning. Aero I think. I was heading towards Abergavenny in vw
  9. Hi, yes, that was my CSR on the way home from work. Decided to make the most of the weather. Rob
  10. Spotted three Sevens blatting on the road to Llansoy (B4293) about 7:30pm this evening. I was in tin-top on way back to Southampton from Abergavenny. Edited by - rd on 1 Sep 2011 21:56:53
  11. My CSR200 uses virtually no oil between changes. I put some in, and it simply throws it into the catch tank.
  12. RD

    Dead speedo sender

    Oops, we were not talking the same part. The one I was refering to is below: here Rob
  13. RD

    Dead speedo sender

    Rob, I had a 'failure' on mine, I simply did the clean, re-gap close to 1mm until the LED on the sensor flashed each time the castalations passed. It has worked fine for over a year.
  14. Our Tdi's (Golf & Passat); oil changed and the new oil is black within a couple of miles. Diesels just do this, totally different to petrol. So don't panic.
  15. Only one word of caution; if you do use a 'clay bar', take it easy. Whilst they work well on removing and smoothing my Tin-Top paintwork, I have always been uneasy at using that technique on the Seven's paintwork. I am probably being overcautious, but the tin-top paintwork is relatively thick and lacquered, whereas the Seven's paintwork looks comparatively thin. I would give the car a good wash and decide if the paintwork is dulled or hazy. If it is, then careful use of clay bar or mild T-Cut cream can bring the shine back. Then a good quality Resin Polish to finish her off. Just take your time and see what works.
  16. Malcolm, I think the pressure relief valve is in the oil pump. See the following link here, click on the 'Duratec Engine components' PDF page 18 part number PR6153. I think this is in the dry sump, only way to get at that is to remove the dry sump. Only way to remove the dry sump is to remove the engine, sorry. When I have spoken to Redline recently, they said they were not as familiar with the 2.3 dura in the CSR and they advised me to use CC at Dartford directly. CC were familiar and I had good service from them. I think the Service manager at CC Dart is James Gibson.
  17. RD

    Oil Filter CSR 200

    Malcolm, take a look half way down this tread for oil filter ID here
  18. Malcolm, Sorry to hear this. You mentioned only half litre was left; did you drain the swirl tower? If you have drained the oil before, you know that only about half a litre resides in the dry sump normally. The ~6 litres stays in the (pumped) swirl tower. As for areas of this type of loss, could it have blown out of the expansion tank? Admitably the reasons would still be puzzling for this amount of oil As for the oil filter; it you screwed on 'dry sealed' then it could have distorted, but not sure why it would take 3k miles to let go. Normal procedure is to smear seal with oil to ensure it doesn't distort (sorry if you already know this one). If the net result was that there was only half litre left in combined swirl & dry sump and it was run for a while then damage may have been done. Under the circumstances of not sure why it happened (may happen again) and the possibility of damage (and not wanting to inflict further damage), perhaps trailered to Caterham or engine out yourself, and off to Minster Power or Cosworth for an engine strip? Hope for the best, but plan for the worst may be the best policy. Rob CSR200
  19. Hi McB, Scoops, Summer blat; we should organise this, invite Mark B from further down your road McB. I have a feeling there are a couple of other Seveners lurking in the CF/Eastleigh area (maybe not on BC though). Saturday looks really nice weather wise, also thinking of blatting off to Goodwood this Sunday morning early (sporting legends). We all should meet up for a chat and arrange?
  20. Judder (when cold on pull away) = dual mass flywheel problems. All VW/Audi/Seat diesels use DM flywheels. I'm on my third
  21. Scoops, hi. No I didn't get the MoT done locally, went up to Finchampstead to get it done as last year. Most likely won't use them again as their mode of operation has changed (won't go into details on here), but hey-ho. Was thinking of JKM near Portsmouth next time, do you use a local garage ?? There is clearly a few Seveners around the Chandlers Ford / Eastleigh area; should form a summer blat.
  22. Yes that was me... We talked outside your house about a month ago from memory. I had just come back from the Caterham's MoT; passed I am pleased to say. Have you got your Seven back on the road, think you mentioned low oil pressure when we spoke.
  23. Hi Keith, I can remember meeting you a couple of years ago at the Quay for my car even at Poole (was parked next to you in the blue CSR). Have you sold and moved on from Seven ownership now? I recall you had a yellow S3 then - ??
  24. I would say yes you do need one fitted. I am having a modine oil cooler fitted next week at CC Dartford (now standard on the CSR). I know modern syn oils are ok at the temps you mention but I always think of the engine and it's seals as well as the spec of the oil. So, get one fitted.
  25. Hey, great minds eh here Edited by - RD on 2 Apr 2011 22:02:40
×
×
  • Create New...