RD

Grubbster, thanks for the suggestion. I have edited the start of this thread in post order. I did contact the L7C on this, asked that they should run a series of maintenence articles in the LF magazine as ref. See you around the south coast ! Rob

Folks, I have left this thread open for any comments on my posts associated with GTKY CSR. Taking each of the service items in order, the links are:- here Introduction here Jacking & axle stand positions here gearbox oil level & change here diff oil level check here engine oil & filter change herebrakes, bearings & suspension here prop shaft UJ greasing here fuel & brake lines here exhaust, drive belt, plugs here lowering car off axle stands here final checks here changing the brake light switch here How to change the clutch hydraulic fluid Rob Updated to cover hydraulic clutch fluid change Final update to close any loose ends; I will be leaving the club at the end of August2012. I will be likely keeping the Caterham for a while yet until moving onto new thrills. Rob Edited by - Rd on 14 Aug 2012 21:28:01

Peter, Nick, I placed the GTKY CSR threads. I closed them simply as I was placing reference material onto the forum for other users in the future. It wasn't that I did not want comment from fellow Blatchatters. I will continue with the rest of the service stuff over the next few days/weeks. Always pleased to accept feedback though. Rob

Mic, any ideas how many miles between greasing ? Think the remove plate and drill hole is a good way forward. Rob

Gerhard, thanks for the link. I think the sealed units will be the answer as there is no way to get a gun onto the grease nipple. Consdered drilling a 10mm hole in the sheet metal directly below the nipple but carerham have routed the rear brake lines down the centre of the tunnel. Any ideas how many miles the joints can go between greasing ? Rob

Just finishing off the servicing on my CSR200; Do any CSR knowledgeable folks know if there is a grease nipple point on the Prop UJ's on this car? As the Prop is mostly boxed in on the CSR, I can just about see what looks like a grease nipple on the prop/diff joint. Don't know if it needs greasing, hope not as there isn't must of a chance of getting a grease gun on in the space & confined angle. Anyone know about this. Thanks Rob

Restoring carbon fibre; a tip I picked up of my son's 'far 2 fast and furious' car crew. Peanut butter, smooth, rub in and polish off. It sounds mad I know, but just try it. Rob

One for the record, in case someone else is looking for an answer on this in the future; I contacted Cosworth, and they confirmed that the CSR 2.3l Ford Cosworth duratec has a cam chain fitted. Job done. Rob

Thanks for the help, I see a few places close to where I live. With the Sunrise / Solent sevens around this area as well, I hoped there would be some trusted garages locally. Rob

Thinking ahead to MOT time. Does anyone use or know of a 7 friendly MoT garage in the Winchester / Southamption area. Low ground clearance and LSD (CSR), Thanks Rob

Many thanks, saved the worry and cost of changing. Rob

Thanks. Reason for asking is that the latest downloadable owners handbook off the Caterham site (page 41) states "for all ford sigma, and duratec engine variants", ...."cam belt change replace 6 years or sooner if required" Hence the question.

Does anyone know if the 2.3l cosworth (ford duratec based) engine fitted into the CSR200 has either a cam belt, or a cam chain? I am getting contradicing advice on this, and obviously need to be sure. Thanks Rob

see pics here done

Thanks for all of your thoughts on the SVA flap merits. I have read some excellent threads on how to remove it, and plan to spend some of those winter hours removing it. On the original thread of fuel; I will be continuing with 95 RON fuel as stated in the online owners handbook on the caterham website. Rob

Tim, thanks for the link. A very interesting link-thread. I have examined the Aero cap and note that all 4 relieved lobes are the same sixe, ie there is not an extra relief at the 12 o’clock position. From the thread you posted, this looks like a reasonable job. However, the new/euro style filler nozzles with the additional knurled ring would still pose a problem I think. As for the removal of the filler ‘flapper’, again do-able, but I am perhaps edging towards the safety conscious and may thank my luck stars one unfortunate day that I left the flapper in place ( an upside down moment, yikes). As mentioned earlier the plastic hose from a plastic jerry can has been used, albeit at slow fill rate. I have now added the high tech. wire coat hanger to my itinerary to side the flapper out of the way on new style filler pumps. Happy filling-up ! Rob

Myles, I agree; filling it up is hard enough as most forecourt pump fuel nozzles don’t fit into the filler pipe. Similar problem as posted elsewhere on the forum. However I always carry the plastic nozzle part of a petrol can as an emergency. Takes a bit longer to fill up, but is quicker than walking. Rob

Malcolm, thanks for the reply. I will continue using '95 and save a few pounds. Rob

I run a CSR200 (2.3l Cosworth, 200bhp), registered 2005. The original handbook is too outdated to be relevant, but the pdf handbook on the Caterham website states that the CSR (200 & 260) uses 95 Ron (minimum). Question; assuming 95 RON is correct; anyone had problems, or use 98 RON? The car is used purely on road, no track use. Rob

Hanns, thanks for replying. Using your measurements, the correct filling level on the 'old' dipstick (green plastic ended) aligns with the cross-hatching on its end plastic portion. If this is correct, why was an alternative dipstick issued when the old one clearly provides an accurate reading ? Mystified. Rob

In relation to the CSR (200); could anyone with the new type oil dipstick measure the distance down from the underside of the dipstick cap to the start & finish of the flattened section on the dipstick. I unfortunately have the original type i.e. a long steel rod with green plastic section on the end. My plan is to simply measure down from the top of my existing dipstick and make a mark, hence saving the hefty £28 cost of a new type dipstick. I have undertaken a search on TechTalk and read all relevant threads. Unfortunately no info on the measurement down from the top. I am fine with the ‘top-up until it throws out into the overflow tank’, but the dipstick method is a good quick check on the fly. Thanks for any help on this. Rob