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RD

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Everything posted by RD

  1. Not sure what your engine is? Your answer really depends on that. If its a CSR DS then engine off; and oil level to the mark on the revised (new) dipstick; excess will be blown into the oil catch tank. If not CSR, then try this here or this here or this here Rob
  2. Motul Sport (ester) synthetic 5W-50 - I guess you pays your money and takes your viscosity..hydrocarbon...synth....ester/PAO 😶‍🌫️ Rob
  3. Now that the winter is here, you may be thinking of tinkering/Servicing the Seven. To supplement the LowFlying GTKY7 articles, these were the threads that started it all off. Enjoy... Rob
  4. Rob G ; that is really good to hear thank you. To me, oil is the most important part of any engine but it is often difficult to get advice outside of the norm. Always consider that twin overhead camshaft on the cosworth CSR, so an ester synthetic is an investment ! Rob PS many thanks to all for taking the time to comment. Edited by - RD on 17 Dec 2010 13:00:54
  5. Thanks for sticking to the question. I am a strong believe in using this forum to get advice and share stuff etc, otherwise what is the point of it? As I mentioned after much research, I intend to use the Fush/Silkoline Titan Pro S 5W40 in the Caterham come spring. Couple of points mentioned in the above replies (and thank you for replying -all): I did undertake a mid-season oil change at 1500 miles last season. The aim of switching to an Ester based synthetic was to overcome degradation through 'shear'; something that conventional mineral oil (like Caterham 5w50) is more susceptible to than those which are truly synthetic i.e. Esters. Hence switching to the Pro S will probably mean a full year/3000 oil change. I am not sure which the Mobil 5W-50 is in terms of mineral v Ester? I did note it on the Opie site. I was also looking for an oil good through higher temperatures. Opie have told me that the Pro S is good up to 130C; my temps don’t get anywhere near that (say up to 90C) and I know the argument of ‘the oil might be ok at those temps, but don’t forget the engine seals etc’. Good to hear someone has tried the Pro S out with positive results. Thanks for this folks. Rob
  6. Hi Tim, I have not had problems as far as aware. However, I am keen to use the best oil in the car. I think that the caterham synthetic oil is hydrocarbon based 'synthetic' from Comma. Whilst this is fine I am sure, I was keen to use a true synthetic, and the Fuch Pro S is an Ester synthetic. My only reservation was the 5W-40 aspect rather than 5W-50. Rob
  7. I have been researching the ‘best’ type of oil to use in my CSR200 (2.3L Duratec). Until now, I have been using Caterham’s 5W-50 oil, changing it every 2000-3000 miles or yearly. Car used for Road use only. I have researched all BC material on oil, read the ‘Oilman threads’, read all comments over its Comma parentage, and believe it to be a mineral based oil. After some more research on the Opie oils site, I may well try the Fuch/Silkolene Pro S (also known as Fuch Titan Race Pro S), which is a 5W-40 Ester Synthetic oil. Any views or experience of this? Rob
  8. I know this video has been shown before on BC, but I am already missing the summer blats in the Seven:- I particulalry enjoyed the French lesson at 1:10. Rob
  9. Now that is unusual, two caterhams in the same road! Guys, mine is SORN until April, in fact its on axle stands in my garage at the moment, couldn't keep my hands off it for long 😬 Come Spring, the three of us should go for a blat or two Rob
  10. Hi, still no luck searching without the 'Search titles' unchecked. Is it terminal? Rob
  11. After the heavy snow here in CF, kind of glad I’ve SORN the Seven; but a good time to check it all over on these long (and cold) winter evenings. Time to get it jacked onto stands and start the checks & do a service ready for the spring; no rush though. I did the Goodwood run many times this year; managed to get the Seven onto the Grid a few times. Off there this Sunday, albeit in the Tin-top as long as the weather isn’t too harsh. As for Velmore road, was simply out for a run & took a u-turn there, but no turning point at the end of the road. Rob
  12. The search facility does not work (Server 500 error received). It is ok if you 'tick' the title box, but doesn't work if it is unticked. Rob
  13. If you are keen to fiddle do it now. Sensible time is when you intend to use it next ie later. Rob
  14. Good morning indeed; 'twaz I, in a CSR ! OR was it ? Live not far from you (~5mins), & seen another caterham lurking in the area, so was out for a last blat prior to SORN'ing at the end of the month. Give me an e-mail if you want to catch up on all things caterham... Rob Edited by - RD on 22 Nov 2010 18:39:58
  15. 1230 Hey, I’m trying, check out the CD track name 😬 here Rob Edited by - RD on 26 Oct 2010 12:10:40
  16. Generally I would agree that conventional cars' plugs last ~20000 miles. However... my CSR was ~4 years old with 3000 miles on it when I bought it. I changed them and it really did make a difference; much smoother and pulled through the rev range. They only cost ~£10 from these folks here The way I look at it, change them each year, its only a tenner. Rob
  17. Buy a woolly hat, unless you’re a hedgehog and hibernate in the winter Get ear plugs Learn that you will develop an allergic reaction to speed bumps The car in front is slow, the car behind is trying its best. Get a Half Hood. Buy a can of tyre goo, if you don’t carry a spare. Oh and a breakdown card. Fit a high level brake light Travel on a journey back in time when you realise the brake switch technology fitted to your car. Give it a name. Invest in a good set of spanners Keep an eye on the road in front for debris. Buy some nice sunglasses, wrap around type. May save your eyes from stones! Learn that traffic jams now become less frustrating, sit back and enjoy looking at the other caged in passengers. You will appreciate how short the summer is; and how long the winter drags Above all else, use the Seven, that’s why you bought it. Rob
  18. Huw, I recently bought a Starcom Advanced with two sets of PRO-002 headsets. I wrote a brief review, link below: here The unit works very well, VOX settings allow MP3 player use and there are many accessories for mobile etc. The choice of Headsets was specific for me. The use of the PRO-002 works well; two in-ear pieces with a small boom mike. They work well and are as the earpiece is in-ear rather than on-ear, they cut down on the surrounding nosie levels well. Rob
  19. Down to Milford on sea for a cup of coffee and some sea air. Will probably try Bournemouth in the morning really early as there will probably only be a few more days like this until next year. Rob
  20. Hi Phil, Yes a blat was in order, down to the beach It was such a sunny morning. Rob
  21. I have a 6 speed caterham G'box; the manual says 1.9 litre capacity. When I drained it (from the drain plug, rather than vacuum pumped it, say, through the filler plug), it took a little over 1.5 litres to fill to the 'filler-plug'. No probs at all, it is full once oil dribbles out of the filler plug hole (level ground obviously). Rob
  22. RD

    Not Spotted?

    I agree will you on this. However, the rain here in the south today has now cleared and it’s a starry night; which means the 7 will be heading for the beach early in the morning as its going to be a sunny day. Rob
  23. RD

    Diff Oil Top Up

    Alternatively check this link:- here Rob
  24. RD

    CSR won't start

    Hi Malcolm, Sorry if this is an obvious question; are you sure you haven't a (totally) flat battery? Lights bright as a check… It does not explain the fuel seepage however. Check obvious things like blown fuse. Rob CSR200
  25. RD

    CSR 200 coolant temp

    Hi Tim, Not on a CSR, but this thread may be of help here and here, or here. Tim, my CSR sits normally at ~70c, rising in traffic to about 90c when the fan cuts in and cools down to ~80/85c. No stacks, simply on the gauge. Good luck with the switch. Rob
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