RD
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Everything posted by RD
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See post at 12:48 with link; pretty straight forward job. here Rob
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Paul, I'm in Chandler's Ford. No probs if you want to catch up. Rob Edited by - RD on 11 Jul 2010 16:12:18
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Paul, mine is a 2.3 cosworth CSR duratec; your welcome to have a look if its similar. I'm very near southampton. Blatmail me if it helps. Rob
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MSM by far the cheapest and good service. Rob
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I use an Optimate 4 conditioner; as I have a battery cut-off switch I always isolate first. Rob
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I think it wise that the recommended 5W 50 syn oil is used in the CSR. I read the 'oilman' threads in depth and with interest (here here) and the only oil that I considered as a possible alternative was the Fuchs Titan Supersyn 5W 40 link here here. However, I still use the Caterham 5W-50 oil, but have become better educated thanks to the oilmans advice! I believe it wise to change it every 3000miles road or significantly more frequent if you are a track user. It may be cautious but that’s just fine by me. Note Silkolene Pro S is now called Fuchs Titan Supersyn I believe. Rob
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I had this problem on my Mondeo a few years back. The instrumentation cluster is illuminated by several small push-in bulbs in a pattern around the speedo & tacho. These slowly fail reducing illumination. So, it is the failure of the bulbs, sorry. The cure is not expensive if you do it yourself; it does take time however. The dash has to be removed to gain access to the instrumentation bulbs. This does take time but can be done in an afternoon. The bulbs are not expensive from Fords; buy several and replace the lot while you’re at it. It was too many years back but is upwards of 6 from memory. Rob
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???? Rob
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????
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Was just doing some research and found this recent question regarding the 2.3 litre duratec. As I was, this very morning, fitting new plugs to my CSR200 which has the 2.3 litre duratec,the correct plug for this is the NGK BR7EFS with a gap of 0.026” (0.66mm). They cost about £10 for four from these folks here or these here. The plug & gap was confirmed to me by Cosworth. Rob
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Paul, sorry no markings on the tank to indicate manufacture. If it is a spare you are after does this work here Rob
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Wind-back thread tools do work; sometimes it needs a little force to start them off. Just one word of warning though, so far I have always found that the wind-back ie pushing the piston into the caliper, is a standard right-hand thread. I learnt the other day, that some manufacturers are fitting left hand pistons on one side and right hand pistons on the other side. And yes, you can get left and right hand wind-back tools. So go carefully. Rob
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I add in 0.5 litre increments until is throws into the catch tank. You need to take it for a run to get the revs up before a steady state is achieved. The catch tank is about 03 t 0.4 litre to overflow pipe. Within reason you can't overfill using this technique, just do it in measured steps. The downside of putting too much oil in is that it simply overfills the catch tank and goes down the pipe and sprays nicely over the underside of the car. Yep done that too. As for dip stick levels, irrespective of which type (old or new), equilibrium for my car is reached at about 4 to 5 inches from the top of the dipstick. My car uses very little oil, but am cautious just in case. Rob CSR200
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Tim, many thanks for the posting. Do you have raised oil temp at all, or does the oil cooler take care of any fluctuations? Rob
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Regarding the 100% mixture; from my youth (a long time ago), neat antifreeze is the best finder of gasket leaks etc. I would not put 100% in. You can always check concentration (Refractometer ?). Rob
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Certainly 50:50 water anitfreeze mix should be fine. Doesn't the CSR require Comma Xstream coolant ?? If supplied by Caterham (online) is already pre-mixed. Rob Edited by - RD on 7 Apr 2010 20:43:33
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Hi Simon, I have a quick rack fitted to my CSR; I had a look at the steering rack / gaiter as shown in your photo links, and mine is somewhat different. The rubber gaiter joins the end of the rack (about 1.5" dia) and is cable tied on. So, significantly different endings, I could take a pic if that would help, but it seems different configuration. It gave me an excuse to prod around though prior to a sunshine blat today (day off). Rob
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Smooth peanut butter. Dont't laugh, try it first Rob
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I used to have this problem; follow the link on the above post to Myles's web article. This worked a treat in removing the SVA flap. Tricky but really worthwhile, no more problems now. Rob
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Ben, I wrote this series of instructions a month ago. The links will take you through how to jack up the car (mine was a Series 5: CSR). Hope this helps Rob Link here
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Simon, always fit new pads when fitted new disc rotors. Rob Rob
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Matt, glad to have helped with this. I agree that finding CSR info is not easy and the handbook is of little use on servicing. There are many more examples of how BC could be used in this way. Rob
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Steve, have we started something here then ...... Plenty more ideas for the Club to come Rob
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GM, the CSR differs in several ways compared to the SV, classic etc. This was my reason for writing the posts. For example: Jacking points and axle stand positions for series 3, are specified in the owners handbook. Wet sump engines have a conventional single drain plug, no swirl tower. Differential is the same approach. Gearbox, similar but some earlier models may not have a drain plug. Spark plugs for non-duratec would be simple HT leads. The CSR does not have de-dion tube and outboard front suspension. Hope this helps Rob
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Chris, thanks for the comments; start thread has been changed to show description of each link. Rob