Silver Machine
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Everything posted by Silver Machine
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Another vote for A021's. I have 14" wheels and the move from ZV's to A021's did a bit more justice to the car. If you don't drive them hard you can get 7000 miles out of a set. Met one chap at Le Mans who drives very gently and has got 10,000 from a set
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As its a K series it might be worth giving the IACV a clean. Some K's don't have them and I don't know if yours does or not. Do a search and there is plenty about locating the IACV and giving it a clean. By the way it takes about 10 mins to do. Given that it only costs 10 mins of time it's worth a try.
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Average of 3000 miles per year over 15 years and the original armourfend is still doing its job. Has survived serious projectiles from artics to careless release of bungee cords along with the normal peppering of stones etc. Our car only has armourfend on the rear wings. Nose cone and sides are relativelly unscathed over the same time period.
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Fitted Halfords +50% three years and 10,000 miles ago to the 7 and they are still working ok. They are brighter but almost anything would be compared to the originals. As with a lot of products, Halfords have offers from time to time and IIRC they were 2 for 1 or something like that when I got them. Thought the full price was a bit steep at the time.
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Oilyhands fitted mine and changed the charachteristic from ridiculously timed with a 'kick' to the smoother transition. The car has driven a lot better. Mine is a supersport and at the top end the power still fells the same but the retune made the journey through the revs a lot smoother.
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Use my car for touring rather than track use. For normal road use the AO21's are almost as good in the wet as the ZV1's in the dry. The only good thing about the ZV1's is that they developed my skills in opp lock comming off wet/damp roundabouts! Definitly expore the tyre avanue it will transorm your driving experience.
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Would support what all that is said above but as Richard says tyres can make a great difference to a car. When I first had my car it was fitted with ZV1's and the change to A021's made it into a different car ( for the better). Would suggest that on a light car such as a Caterham changing tyres has a greater impact on handling than on a heavier car.
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Hot starting difficulty - K series engine
Silver Machine replied to Englishmaninwales's topic in TechTalk
Had similar and it did appear to be the IACV. Cleaning seemed to cure the problem for a couple of months followed by the same problem recurring. Got a nearly new one from the 'for sale' section and that seemed to fix problem. Think there are a lot of 2nd hand IACV's about due to folk upgrading the induction etc. -
Get in touch with Dave at DVA. Tell him what you want from your car. I am confident you will get the best possible advice and service.
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Don't know how to do a link but if you do a search this was a point for discussion a few years back. Think its a matter of checking and elimination. Had the same twice, replacing the track rod ends seemed to fix it the first time. Second time one of the nose cone fasteners had been damaged and did not fasten, at 60 ish this semed to precipitate some front end vibration. I think this is one manifestation with various possible causes.
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Forget the part number but last time I needed an expansion cap (middle of France) topped up coolant but didn't put cap on properly, therefore lost it) I phoned Red Line who gave me several part numbers for differernt caps but all suitable. Was able to pick one up in France based on the numbers they gave me. Did make a temp one with 2 clips and the lid off a 4 litre water container from a suppermarket.
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I think that the general advice is to replace the tensioner when you replace the belt. If the tensioner failed that would be just like the belt failing. Also if you have removed the old belttensioner etc a fair amount of effort has been expended and you might as well do the complete job while you are at it
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Had the same problem with 1600 supersport. Replaced IAVC which improved things a bit then replaced battery which seems to have cured it. New battery is not a Banner and has a bit more cranking power. Resetting the ECU can help.
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Have armourfend on rear wings similar to 'Stationary M25 Traveller' Approaching 14 years now with no milky effect. Given the location on the car the armourfend itself has taken a bit of a scuffing but thats what its for.
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Have aook at Bob Smith Industries web site. They make/sell superglues for almost every application. From what I remember there is a table giving type of glue and application.Sorry I can't do a link. Steve Web Models stocks most of the range and does an efficient mail order service.
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Just put the car away for the night and it sorted itself out just as you advised. Many thanks for the reassurance Martin.
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Any help or suggestions to solve this problem greatly appreciated. Just filled up a 55 plate 2.0l diesel Mondeo. The fuel gauge now indicates full but the low fuel warning light has stayed on. In addition the computer readout giving potential milage for fuel in tank has not reset and now show zero miles. The rest of the computer functions are working OK. Aiming to sell car soon so don't want to spend to much on getting this sorted if possible.
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Have experienced the same problem. You can do a tempory fix by winding tape (insulating, masking etc) round the steel tube. Have found that the simultaneous insertion of a foam ear plug also works. I think the more thorough permanent fix above would be best in the long term though.
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Have the same problem. Never found a permanent fix but all the followig have stopped the rattle : insulation tape round the metal pole, foam earplug simultaneosly inserted with headrest, pipe insulation cut to size and inserted in the hole before you put the headrest in, have the seat fully back so the headrest pushes against the roll bar. Why go for a permanent fix when you can have fun for years being inventive with plastic tape and foam.
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Would appreciate any advice on what pressure to run my AO21's at. Heading for Le Mans Classic next week and wondered what pressure I should run at given the distances involved and warmer weather that is predicted.
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13 years and 35000 miles still looks the same.
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The replacement pack from Caterham/Redline contains a left and right gater complete with cable ties. I had never done this job untill recently but do a search and the guidance given is excellent. I must say that having had some giudance from Mav when were chatting at Stoneligh gave me a fair degree of confidence. Given the price of a ball joint splitter I thought it was easier to split the taper joint and take off the track rod end. It also gave access to clean up the upright etc. It all sounds a bit involved but in reality its a very straight foreward job.
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Odd Oil Pressure Readings - sender or blocked pick up ?
Silver Machine replied to Dicky's topic in TechTalk
Had exactly the same symtoms last year on the way home from Le Mans. It turned out to be the oil pressure sender. Fitted a new sender and all readings returned to previous. Having recently seen a mechanical set up I should have intalled one of these rather than just a new sender. From what I gather it does'nt cost much more and is not terribly difficult to install. -
Have used heavy duty velcro. The piece you stick to the floor stays forever but adesion to the carpet is poor. Stitching the velcro to the carpet has prooved successful. Machine stitching is best but I must admit did not do this bit myself.
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Does it work?
