Silver Machine

Thank you Jonathan. I will just leave them connected together by the spade and insulate with some shrink wrap.

I am replacing the electrical oil pressure sender and gauge with a mechanical set up. New gauge has a connection for the oil pipe and a live and neutral electrical connection for the illumination. I understand that as it goes. On removing the old electrical gauge it has 7 wires going to it. I can work out the ones for illuminating the gauge and the one from the sender. However I have two green wires that are both connected to terminal number 3 . Do any of you folk know what these are for?

Currently fitting one amongst several other jobs. In its most simple form you will need a double male threaded adaptor that screws into the place your sender used to be. You then attach your tubing to this and the other end of the tubing to the new mechanical oil pressure gauge. Some folk use a T piece instead of the double male adapter so they can have the mechanical gauge and a low pressure warning light. Some run a shorter length of tubing from the site of the original oil pressure sensor to a T piece located less near the underneath of the car and then complete the system as in one of the above.

Thank you Wrightpayne. In the back of my mind I did suspect that this component had a dual purpose but now I Know what it was. So back in it goes.

Job has gone well with sump, foam and old gasket having been removed. The advice to use a jack when removing the sump was invaluable. One more question. The foam seemed to be held in place by a piece of pressed stainless steel. Do I remove this as its only purpose seems to be for retention of the foam which is not going back or do I leave it in place? For interest the foam was intact but had a slight brittleness. It had been in place for 7 years with the car unused for the last 4 years.

That sounds a good idea thank you.

Thanks SM25T. Thank you for the link and advice. Not having done this job before the oil on the shelf would have taken me by surprise.

Dropping the sump later today and decided to remove foam and carry out the gasket mod. I have a new gasket and know that I need to drill a couple of holes in the 'ledge'. I would appreciate a photo or link to one. I have searched previous threads but have been unsuccessful with the links. Does anyone know which copy of low flying several years ago had an article on removing sump pan etc? Many thanks

Thanks for all the advice and links. Parts should be arriving tomorrow so 900mm breaker bar at the ready. PS . This is the first of several jobs to get the car back on on the road after a bout of ill health so further advice will probably be sought and much appreciated as I progress through a few over standing maintenance jobs.

I am hoping to change the cam belt and tensioner on my 1997 supper sport. I have never done this job before so any advice would be appreciated including links to previous threads. Did a little bit of exploring today and I think the hardest physical problem to overcome is removing the alternator pulley. I can lock the flywheel/cog thing with a screw driver but I am not sure what size of bar to use as I don’t want to damage or snap anything. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Been through some extreme downpours over the years and would agree that water in the boot seems to come from the space round the roll bar supports. Found that a piece of roll bar foam fitted to the bars inside the boot can help but not eliminate the problem.

They have always been very helpful regarding my k Series. Lots of the consumables are common to various engined cars.

I read Dave Jacksons post several years ago when replacing a CV boot. Comparing the flexiboot with original part it is eay to appreciate what Dave says and has experienced. However in my case I was setting off for Le Mans and had only half a day to resolve the problem. In my case the flexiboot took about 2 hours to fit and six years later appears to still be ok. My car is a 1997 supersport and I am a bit of a captain slow compared to Dave so no track use and relatively gentle road driving. If you do go for this route using the cone then warm up the boots in warm water and use plenty of WD 40 on the cone.

Been upto an indicated 80mph on French motorways with no problems. Was it that once one popper went then the lift on the others caused those to separate?

Repainted mine a few years ago. Preparation plus respray seemed to take forever. Taking the cost of paint and laquer into account, professional refurbs are pretty good value.

I own a 1997 supersport. Got a feeling its about 135 bhp. Dave Andrews fitted verniers and larger air intake which has made the car more drivable but I don't think these mods produced any significant increase in power. For my needs and (limited) driving skill I find this power to be more than sufficient for road use and touring. On track more power could be more than uttilised. As I am sure Dave at DVA will tell you the suppersport mod is a dead end one and increasing the power output beyond the 135bhp would involve starting all over again. If I recall DVA do a similar mod to the suppersport one. This mod can be developed further in the future if required. If you want no more than 135 bhp then the suppersport provides this at a reasonable price. If you see this as the first stage of ongoing engine upgrades then have a chat with Dave.

Think we had a thread some time ago on how to resolve this problem . I think that several folk wrapped the stem with insulating tape or similar. From what i can remember I fixed mine (1997 car) using this method. I appreciate that this kind of fix does not always appeal to everyone as several of us would prefer to fix things using original or new components.

May be a bit late for advice at this stage but have found that 'boots' of all types tend to be easier to fit if you place in a sealable plastic bag then imerse in hot water for 10 mins or so. As already suggested a squirt of WD 40 or similar can also assist.

Local independent carpet shop if given a template will cut and bind edges. Binding edges is usally about £1 per linear foot. Works out a bit cheaper than a full set.

My 1997 Supersport with lightened flywheel is the same. At first I was a bit concerned but after 30000 miles decided it was TADTS.

Marcy MP3500 Home Gym. Four years old and in perfect condition. Is fully assembled and comes with original instructions. Photographs available via email. I have priced it at £350 based on what identical gyms are for sale on Ebay/Gumtree. Genuine reason for sale - son moving away from home for study.

Support for what Jonathan has posted. Have had several electrical items that have been out of warranty but used the Sale of Goods Act to get some money refunded. You need to establish what would be considered a reasonable lifetime for the product and claim for any time you have not had due to failure of the product. The expected lifetime of a windscreen surround must be beyond 2 years and 4k miles.

As you describe matters my supper sport has the same exhaust and did have a rattle. Could never work out what was rattling. On a visit to Dave Andrews it was identified that a worn but not failed bobbin had caused the connection of the 4 into 1 piece of exhaust to be a little loose. Dave's expertise, a new bobbin, silicon sealant and a bit of force sorted the problem out in my case.

Mazda 6 1985 vintage. Acquired by some friends of ours in 1997. They ran it for 12 years and 70000 miles with no servicing. As far as I know they topped up the oil about once a year, replaced the pads when needed and repaired a blowing exhaust using an old tin and some clips.

Several years ago our house and the neighbours needed new mains cables. The cause of the issue did not lie with ourselves. The electricity supply people wanted to excavate our property/garden/drive etc. as you describe your current situation. We eventually persuaded them to use a 'mole' that excavated a small diameter tunnel for the new cable. I would have thought this method would work in some way at least up to your house wall. Think use of these devices can be dictated by type of ground though. In our case it must have been cheaper given the degree of excavation saved.