Fishy Dave

Still looking for something cheap and tatty.

Just looked at Parkers for example and HERE it shows no tow rating on an S3, whilst it does on a normal A3.

I'm almost certain it's a no. I looked into various sporty models when looking for a car which could tow, and none of the Audi S3/S4/TTs etc. were allowed to tow and had no rating.

I have a black one

I have the same problem as you Naddy, and I know others have too. To run 8" slicks on the back I have reversed the droplinks, angle grinded off some the excess thread and have to run small spacers or else I'm left with marks on the inside of the tyre!

Mine packed up too, and have done as others describe and just bypassed and removed the intermittent unit. I actually prefer it now and don't miss an inter function.

Not sure exactly , you will have the same type as me, but I will be changing them to these longer 40mm ones when they get more in stock. Caterham Parts

Depends on what you want to use it for, but Manfrotto Super clamps are nice to use and you can join two together easily enough. I used to use these for rig shots for filming.

Link here

Looking for a full hood (S3), happy with one with a damaged rear window or zip as will by adapting (butchering) it to fit my tall cage. Thanks, Dave

Still looking for an arm, a wiper arm that is.

Guessing you are after a Carbon Caterham nose cone Kenno?

Perfect, thanks guys, will get ordering.

Thanks Simon, No multiplug on mine, looks like they have been changed/damaged at some stage in the past. No wing repeaters, and i was intending on removing the headlamps and brackets complete. Dave

What sort of connector would you suggest is best should I wish to remove the headlights for racing? I'm thinking of cutting the wires just inside the bodywork. Up until now I have left the lights on, but am aware they are not the most streamlined of items and they could get damaged.

Which car do you have? S3, SV, metric, imperial etc.

Hi Les, have a read of this thread from earlier in the week - Link

Some suggest putting on with warm, soapy water, but I did what you mentioned, waxed the bodywork and then put them on dry. I have had no issues with air bubbles or with them peeling, and they have remained there for the past three years.

You can get them by calling Caterham Midlands, usually you only need to make a payment for their postage, so ask for four, one eash side, one for the nose and one spare in case you mess up putting one of the others on! I don't race in a Caterham series but was still sent the backgrounds.

I use Autocom and use these in each of my helmets (sew them into the lining) Ebay

Thanks for posting Dave, interesting stuff. In terms of power and torque how much difference is this making by having the cams so for away from ideal timing? As an aside, how much more power do the 1320s make compared to the supersport cams (assuming no other modifications fitted)?

How you been able to 'fix' yours now Sandy? Thanks to further advice from Ian I now have a slightly hooligan map complete with flame and bang on the overrun 😬

Huge thanks for the help and advice from Mr Locust (Ian). I now have a Seven which starts every time from cold. The Emerald pdf on cold starting is detailed and some of it made sense to me, whilst other bits left me confused. Ians advice on the other hand was simple enough for me, and just knowing how to adjust the IACV in the live events screen made a big difference. Thank you again

Hello, I bought a new K6 Emerald last year and had it mapped locally. Once the engine has been running for a couple of minutes and the coolant temperature rises it runs smoothly. To get it to start from cold is difficult though, both with the map supplied by Emerald and the custom map I now use. I have to sit in the car and apply some throttle to get it to start and I have to continue sitting in the car for a couple of minutes with this light throttle before it will maintain an idle. If I am outside the car and thumb the starter button from cold, the engine either turns over and will fire and the revs will hunt, rise a little (barely reaching 1000rpm) and fall for a second before it stalls or just turns over without firing cleanly, just the odd cough. Without resorting to another remap just to sort out the cold starting issue is their any advice you can offer please (to suit a novice)? I have searched the archive on here and found a number of useful threads that talk of 'startup enrichment' but I can't find that function, is this something that is absent in the new software or has it been renamed? I'm a novice at playing around with this stuff on the laptop but keen to learn. For reference, the car is an EU2 Caterham 1600 Supersport Thanks Dave.

Pics required please