Dave H

Chris, YHM Dave H

Give Tony @ TSK a ring - he'll know exactly how much you'll need. Dave H

Nic, Amazon has it here Dave H

Nic, You need top get yourself a copy of the Haynes Manual - Weber Carburettors Owners Workshop Manual. ISBN 1 85010 061 6. It has a load of info on Tuning , as well as how to take them apart and reassemble, if you are feeling brave 😳 A quick search via Google shows there are copies still for sale, Dave H

I used one of these http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35516&criteria=soldering%20&doy=1m6, which includes a hot-air nossle. Small enough to do fine work or use where space is limited (like the Seven ) Dave H

Phil, I have a copy of the Haynes Manual for the Mondeo 1993 to 1998 - which covers my Zetec if that is of any use. Give me a call on 01444 459470 to discuss what the problem is. The timing for the older Zetec is fairly simple - the cams are locked in position using a 5mm thick bar (Ford cam locking tool) at the rear of the engine. I think there is only one position where they will lock properly.The cam belt is then fitted with no. one cylinder at TDC. The locking tool is the only specialist tool you need, though a slim rule is useful if you use the Peter Carmichael/John Howe method for getting TDC. Remove plugs, using the rule get cylinders at the same position/height i.e 90degrees off TDC - this removes the problem of the TDC dwell. Now fit a 360deg. timing protractor to the crank pully and a piece of wire (from a convenient fixed bolt) as a pointer - rotate engine 90degs. Voila - TDC and no wories about the dwell angles. Hope this helps, but do call if you want to discuss, Dave H

Bob, You are right - you need to take the steering wheel off the column to get the bush to fit. A smear of rubber lube will help it into place. There are, as ric says, a couple of lugs on the bush to hold it in place. If the wheel & column won't move when you try and pull them out, make sure the joint between the upper and lower sections of the column haven't siezed up - makes the job a whole lot harder Dave H

Stuart, If the battery is where it used to be on mine, then it can be removed under the car. Disconnect and free the battery up - not easy but can be done without taking the carbs off. The battery can then be slid backwards and out to the underside of the car. You need to jack the car up so the battery will slide out - though if its the gel type, it can be turned on its side to get it out. In the words of the Haynes manuals - installing the new one is the reverse of this procedure. After changing the battery twice in 2 years, I moved mine so I could get to it easily Good luck, Dave H

Bloggsy, The Ital axle would only be a problem if you try dumping too much power through it, or use it on the track with over large or too soft tyres. I've been running mine (with the Zetec) for 5 years, and the previous 11 with the xflow. Only broken it once, when I tracked the car with low oil in the diff...not recommended. It was explained to me as, if you gently increase the pull on a piece of line, it will take a lot more force to break it than if you "snatch" at it. So be a little careful with the thottle & clutch and it will be fine. And remember - the Ital Axled Seven is lighter than the De Dion version. Dave H

I'm a happy Zetec owner. Changed when the old xflow needed a rebuild, and decided it was the way forward. Although it is a heavier engine its still lighter than the Vauxhall lump (isn't everything ). It retains much of the character of the xflow - when run on carbs, but because it hasan ECU and 3d mapping its far more economical (about 20% improvement). The Ital axle can be a problem in the higher tuned Zetecs, but a "standard" unit should be within the capabilities of the axle. An upgrade to consider is to change it for a Ford unit at a later date. You do need to consider if you will keep the car long term, upgrading as want/need/finances permit, or will you trade in/up. If the latter, you need to keep a close eye on what is selling well, for the former, remember, most bits on a Seven can be changed (for a price & some work) so find one you like The advice I give people is to get down to a local meeting and talk to every owner you can, and get your bum on as many seats as possible. Dave H

James Whiting had a theory that switching between synthetic and mineral oil (or the other way round) causes the foam to go brittle and disintegrate. I haven't spoken to him for some time, so don't know if he's tested it out, but it sounds like whats happened to yours. Dave H

Give Mick at Redline a call - I'm sure he'll know - they stock almost everything ever used on a Caterham Dave H

Alan, If fitted they must work - I took mine off some time ago, and have had no problems. If you have only one, it should be on the passenger side of the car - Fog light on drivers side. I may have an old Wipac lens in the Garage - if I can find it its your if you want it (not sure what state its in though) Dave H

Jano, Yours is a live axle car - I guess from the age of it. If so, to change the clutch, you shouldn't have to take the engine out. If you disconnect the prop shaft from the diff, undo the gearbox mounting bolts, and disconnect the engine from the gearbox, the gearbox should move back 12 inches plus down the transmission tunnel (takes a bit of fiddling). You now have enough room to change the clutch - and it is easier than taking the whole lot out. To get to the gearbox mounting bolts you need to remove the access panel over the transmission tunnel. Hope this make sense, Dave H

If its only the Brake lights, I'd suspect the switch. If the Brake & Reversing lights,then the fuse, Brake & something else, check the earthing. Hope that helps, Dave H

Mark, The inspection plate is around the gearlever. To get to mine, I have to remove both seats (runners bolted through the support rails front and rear), the gear knob(unscrews) the Carpet unclips at the front, and can be (carefully) pulled back revealing the inspection "plate" held on by 4 screws into captive bolts. The plate will lift off, bringing with it the gearlever gater (hence the need to remove the gear knob). Feel free to call if you want to discuss further, Dave H Sussex (East) AO

Tim, I think its pre "universal" chassis live axles that have the one-piece - from around '92 onwards. Mines an '86 chassis, and is most definately one piece. The tunnel has a nice habit of filling with leaves & twigs, which only get cleared when the engine & gearbox come out Dave H

The Live Axle cars floor is a one-piece, which extends full width of the car, so there is very limited access to the propshaft from below. There is an access panel in the top of the transmission tunnel which will allow enough room to get to the front of the prop shaft. Dave H

Adil, The clutch cable should be a standard Caterham/Ford part. If your throttle cable is anything like mine, then you can either cut down a standard cable, or make one up. One end needs (obvously) to fit the throttle pedal, so that has to a Caterham type item, but the other end needs a nipple to fit the carb. There was one in the Carb kit when I bought mine, so you could try Webcon, or James Whiting. Let me know how you get on, 'cos I'll have to replace mine sometime in the future. Dave H

I think I've got an old pressed steel one in the garage if you want to change it Dave H

It's also worth getting hold of some Sierra rocker cover washers - they are boomerang shaped, and spread the load better than a conventional washer. Dave H

Nic, had a similar problem on my old Xflow - changed the throttle cable and all was well. When I took the cable apart there was a length which had frayed, and occasionally caught. Try disconnecting the cable and moving it by hand. You may be able to feel any unusual resistance. If it all feels OK, test the carbs - open and close them and see if they stick. At least you can eliminate one or the other fairly quickly. Dave H

After I broke my Ital axle the first time, the advice I was given by James Whiting was - If it goes once, fix it. If it happens again, then you are straining it, and should replace it with a Ford one. That was 12 years ago, and I'm still on the Ital unit - Zetec powered, putting around 150 bhp through it. An Ital will take over 200 bhp provided you don't try to put it all down in one blast - treat it a bit gently and it will last. Sticky tyres and hard cornering will also see you needing a replacement fairly soon. Dave H

I run my live axle standard Zetec powered Seven with 300lb at the front and 120lb at the rear. These were advised by James Whiting, and I find it very nice on the road. haven't had it on the track yet, but the time will come... Dave H

Take a look here. They do a selection, and a lot cheper than CC. Dave H