Dave H

Anthony, My old xflow had a similar problem (before it was replaced) - the rear crankshaft oil seal was the culprit. If its a de dion car then its an engine out job, for a live axle, you can make enough room behind the engine to work by shoving the gearbox back. Good luck Dave H

Joe, The underdash handbrake is not known for its efficiency, so it needs to be in good order to get through an MoT. It's not difficult to strip down to free the button - BUT - take it apart carefully, noting how each part fits, 'cos it is a complete b*****d to reassemble. Is the button actually stuck down, because it does screw in and out to adjust. If it is stuck down, and the cable itself is free - i.e. the handbrake works, but just won't lock, then either its been pushed in too far, and you'll have to dismount it and push the button out, or the spring that pushes the button out has become misplaced. I doubt Caterham will stock them now - give Mick at Redline a call on 01883 346515, they stock almost everything for the older Seven, and should be able to help. Dave H

Alistair, The stub axle knocks out as you say, on the road side. The nut on the back is done up to (I think) 60ft lb, and the axle is shaped to match the upright, and is pressure fitted with the nut . If you are replacing it, then give it a smack with a big hammer (several times) and it will move. The wheel bearings don't require much force to move - a number of gentle taps and they will push off (use a smallish drift). I'm at work at the moment and don't have access to the build manual, but give me a call this evening and I'll talk you through what I can remember - wiht the aid of car and book. Dave H (phone number in LF Sussex East AO)

I have removed all the rivnuts from my car a few years ago - hateful things - replaced them all with nuts & bolts. Where they intrude into the cockpit I've used machine screws - round heads so they won't catch on clothing etc. Dave H

Lack of anti-freeze? Could be ice in the hoses preventing water circulation to the radiator. Dave H

Have you checked if Redline have any? I have found they carry a better stock of some things than Caterhams, and usually worth a try. Dave H

Whenever I knock rivets out, I spray some Waxoil through the hole - this will (hopefully) preserve the chassis, and it also gives the bit you've knocked through something to to stick it, and stop it rattling around. Dave H

I upgraded my Xflow to an 1800 Zetec, still on Carbs (I love that sound ), and the milage improved from low 20's mpg on a steady run to close to 30 mpg. I can still get it to drop below 20 when "making progress" 😬, but I haven't got it down to single figures which was acheivable with the Xflow 😳. I think the 3d mapping required to run the Zetec is what made the difference. Talk to James Whiting - he understands these things, and should be able to give you all the info you need. Dave H

testing

Paul, YHM Regards, Dave H

It's not a new problem - I was talking to a friend of my Fathers, who worked for Caterham Cars back in the late '50s & early '60s. He said if a Seven came in it was almost a matter of course to get the engine out so they could do any work on it, as there was almost always bits of chassis or something in the way for any job more coplex than an oil change (and in some cases even then!!) Dave H

Duncan, A touch more extreme than I was thinking of. Option 2 would churn the lawn up a little too much, and the nieghbours might complain about the noise when option 1 was in use...nice idea though. 😬 Dave H

I have a pest problem, and the neatest solution is to shoot the little b****rs - I hate poison, and traps can get the wrong animal. I don't want full blown firearms, but a decent air rifle should do the trick. Any one got something suitable for small rodents (rats, squirrels and rabbits and possibly magpies, crows and pidgeons) they don't use any more?

Is your battery up to the job, i.e. holding a full charge etc - I had a similar problem - thought it was the starter, turned out the battery was supplying just enough to kick the engine over under perfect conditions..cold or damp and it couldn't do the job. All fine now after sorting the battery. Dave H

Norman, I run a live axle Zetec - so it may be a touch heavier than your BDR, but following the advice I received from James Whiting, I fitted 300lb at the front and 125's on the rear. I find it handles the local roads quite nicely, but it's all a matter of personal taste. Dave H

Agree with Alex Had my JW one for 5 years, does the job and looks great. Give James a call. Dave H

Joe, Could it possibly be a beathing problem with the tank - not venting properly so you loose fuel pressure? It sounds a little like the symptoms I had with a car a number of years ago. Turned out to be a partially blocked vent. Great to hear of another Seven on the road. Hope you get it sorted soon so you can get out and enjoy it. Dave H

Stephen, The problem was probably to do with earthing the lights rather than the power supply to the bulbs. The earth mounting for all the lights is on one side of the car, probaly using one of the bolts that holds the wing on - so when you lost thewing, you could well have lost the earthing. The fog lights could well be earthed elsewhere - depends on when the car was built ❗ The wiring on a Seven can be "interesting" - and earthing is a common problem... Dave H

Haz, I'm not sure what the master cylinder is from, but I did get a repair kit from a Motor factors for it - I supplied them with part no's etc that I found on the unit. Worth contacting someone like Redline if you get no luck closer to home. Check all connections at alternator, battery and dash, including earths. Caterhams are notoriuos for suffering from bad earth problems, and these can manifest themselves as some of the weirdest electrical glitches. The clunk sounds like the rear bush on the A-frame, but if you've just changed it, check all the nut/bolt torque settings - with the car on the ground. Also check there is nothing loose in the boot - I once spent ages trying to get rid of a rattle in the rear suspension, only to find it was a spanner in the boot rattling against the chassis behind the drivers seat Hope this helps, Dave H

Older cars have their seats mounted on the chassis rails front and rear, later ones the seat rails sit directly on the floor, and the rivets will pull out (esp. with lardy drivers ). Dave H

You don't need reversing lights on the car - so following several years of continuing problems with mine...light fittings falling apart, switch breaking, corrosion etc...I dumped them. Still passes the MoT each year, and to be honest, I think the back of the car looks tidier without them. Dave H

Could be bushes - you say they look OK, but its difficult to tell what's happening out of sight. The "cheap" option is to change them all, and if that don't work, look at replacing the shocks ☹️. Mine used to make a creaking noise, which was the springs rubbing in the shocks - all nice and quiet now I've fitted Avo's. Remember, the harder you use the car, the less time between bush changes Dave H

Mine is at TSK having a new rear panel fitted after a small rear end shunt. The back of the car has to be stripped, wheel arches off, fuel tank out, rollbar/cage removed. The new panel is a single sheet of ali which needs to be tailored to fit (cut, bent, shaped etc), then a respray, new poppers for boot cover, reassemble.. The job can take 10 - 15 days, and around £1500...I doubt the old boy realises just how expensive it is to run into the back of a Seven. I'd be inclined to contact your insurance company, tell them the full story, and the third party can then decide if his insurers need to know, or if he will pay up himself... Dave H

Haz, Caterham should still stock the side exit system, if not, try Redline (phone number in Lowflying) - they are sure to have one. You'll need to replace the whole system, as it's a 4 into 1 not a 4 to 2 to 1 which is what you currenty have. If the exhaust is hitting the ground when you have a passenger, it may not be the exhaust's fault - you should check the rear suspension - it may have reached the end of it's life and the springs need replacing, or, if adjustable, the ride hight turning up slightly. Dave H

For an FIA rollbar, get in touch with Redline, they have second hand ones for sale from time to time, as people upgrade to cages - I got mine from them, very helpful, and a good price. Dave H