clarkey
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Everything posted by clarkey
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I could be interested - much much are you looking for?
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if the fuel pump doesn't make a noise and there is no click from the starter, it is probably the fuse to the ECU - 20 amp, I believe.....
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My Superlight R has got the same. It drives perfectly and a compression test didn't reveal any problems, so I've chosen to ignore it!!
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So when did you see mine then???? I guess the CF is no more comfortable than composite though....so kudos is the main benefit?
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Over £200 each is a lot of difference - I know the carbon ones look sexier, but how much lighter are they? Are there any other benefits to justify the cash??
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I thought it may have been unlikely..........
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I'm not aware of one. It is on page 278 of this years MSA Blue Book though. These are the more popular 13 inch choices: Avon CR322 Bridgestone Re720 Falken ZE502 Yokohama A509/510/520/539 (not sure which are available in 185/60-14 though. So not much choice. Bracknell Tyres in Binfield, Berks do the Falken for about 30 quid each, so not bad. Graeme Finlayson swears by the Bridgestones (he is in the W*******d Speed Series). Most of the quick W*******d drivers use 15 inch wheels and Bridgestone SO2-PPs . Scrubbed tyres are allowed, and this is supposed to help a lot. List 1a is essentially proper road tyres. Include everything except for Avon ACB10s/CR500s, Dunlop Formula Rs, Yoko A021/32/38, ie, anything that suits a 7.
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I'm looking for a pair of R500 seats, preferably carbon but fibre glass would be OK. Does anyone have any spares??? Thanks.
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You'll need to use list 1a tyres for sprints - there are few choices in 13 inch however. Favourites are Bridgestone RE720s and Falken ZE502s.
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I'm interested in 2x6x13, 2x7x13, de dion in black.
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You've got the early SLR dry sump like me, later ones are easier to check I'm told. Check the level with the oil hot, but without the engine running (as you have noticed). The level is about 5 inches down, I believe there is a small plug in the side at this level. It's not exact, so i always try to make sure that I overfill very slightly, so a little oil is always being left in the overflow tank to make sure.
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Thanks Roger. As it happens at 7000rpm, I tend to be using full throttle...... Looks like the head is coming off then. What fun.
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My SLR has developed a misfire at 7000rpm, first noticed at Donington on friday. It got worse, and was pretty violent (as if it had hit the rev limiter). I changed the plugs today (Champion RC7YCC) and it appears to have improved it a bit, but it is still there. Compression test showed 220-210-235-225 psi, so no huge problems indicated, although there is a tiny bit of sludge in the header tank. Water temperature is fine, oil pressure is fine too. HT leads, etc, all look fine. Any other ideas? It needs to be in top shape for Curborough..... Thanks for your help. Edited by - Clarkey on 22 Jul 2001 13:54:34
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I've got one, but have never managed to get any accurate settings...I would be very grateful if anyone else has!!
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Cheers Mike, I should be home by about 8 o'clock tomorrow, so I'll give you a call. I'll send you an email to get the ball rolling...........
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I haven't really got any ACB10s spare at the moment, I may have some shortly though. Still need another set of wheels at the right price though.....
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Currently have loads of 245 rears, could do with a few more fronts though..... I have a source for part worn ones, I'll let you know if I can get some more. Especially if I get your wheels cheap.....
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Thanks for letting me know Mike. Tyres are the last thing I need more of as I have a garage packed with ACB10s at the moment!! The price is a bit high for me, let me know if you don't get any interest. Cheers Steve.
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Mike I'm very interested. Do they come with tyres? If not, I'd be happier around the £500 mark. Let me know what you think. Cheers Steve.
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During a track day, I get loads of grease leaking from the front suspension of my Superlight R, from the wheel bearings, and now from the bottom of the uprights. There is enough for it to leave grease down the side of the car. I assume that this is something to be concerned about, even though there doesn't appear to be any play or harshness anywhere. Has anyone else experienced this? Should I replace bits, or is repacking bearings and replacing seals enough? Thanks for your help.
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Race technology have now got a section on the site where you can upload your AP-22 set up data. If you have set yours up accurately, it would be really helpful to other owners (like me) if you could contribute yours, especially if you have been able to fine tune it against other timing equipment. Site is: http://www.race-technology.com/WebPage/Products/Accelerometer/DATA/VehicleData.html Cheers
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I left the rear ARB on and put it on a fairly soft setting. If I'd had time I would have tried removing it as well. Let us know how you go without the front ARB, I found it miles better.
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Jeeeez, not cheap, are they worth it???
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I think I'd rather go down the adjustable route as I'm far too lazy to keep taking the nose off and changing ARBs. Thanks for the advice.
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I don't know the thickness off hand, but a mechanic from Hyperion said it was a bit of a monster... How much is the adjustable Juno one, and who supplies them?
