charlie_pank

No need to get them made up for you. A brake line kit (flaring tool, cutter and some unions) and a few metres of the pipe are (relatively) peanuts.

Your car is upgrading itself and starting to shed unnecessary weight. The heater will become vestigial and separate from the chassis soon :)

I know I've explained this before, but here goes again: The click is caused by the current being insufficient to throw the solenoid of the starter, this can happen for a couple of reasons OR A COMBINATION OF SOME OR ALL OF THEM: 1. The current at the solenoid is lower than it should be 2. The solenoid is stickier than it should be 1. The current at the solenoid is lower than it should be - causes: - There are one or more 'dry joints' in the main circuit - The relay contacts on the low-current side are corroded - One or more of the wires involved have a high resistance because they get too hot - One or more of the wires involved have been through lots of heat cycles and now their resistance is higher than it should be - The wire(s) carrying the current from the battery to the solenoid are too long (causes higher resistance) - The FIA switch's terminals are corroded 2. The solenoid is stickier than it should be - causes: - There is dirt in the solenoid - The piston is corroded - The solenoid has expanded because it's getting too hot You can test a number of these issues - eg. If you short the terminals on the starter (make sure the car is out of gear first), does it start the car? If 'yes' then there's nothing wrong with your starter motor; if the starter motor doesn't spin, but does if you short the terminals on the MFRU, then your relay is to blame etc... HOWEVER, any number of these problems can occur simultaneously, and each component might work fine on its own, or if you swap any one of them out, but put a slightly dirty solenoid together with a slightly corroded piston and run a (old, slightly higher resistance) long line from the battery via the (old, slightly corroded terminals) FIA switch to the starter, and they lower the current enough that the solenoid won't throw. You also might get a situation where replacing any one of the components in a system where all the items are 'tired' will fix the symptoms because they push the current back up over the 'throwing' threshold, or decrease the stickiness of the solenoid; yet when the symptoms return, replacing the same component that you did last time won't fix it! Many many people on this forum have posted that getting a different kind of starter motor/solenoid fixes it, or cleaning the piston, or getting a new FIA switch, or the relay mod, or rewiring etc... but if you really want to get to the bottom of it, I think you need to understand what's going on in YOUR car, and think about how you can test the components together and in isolation to determine the actual root cause of YOUR problem. Edited by - charlie_pank on 17 Sep 2012 14:12:22

Quoting Bricol: I think you an leave most of that list attached to the car - brakes, driveshafts etc - just disconnect or un-tie from the tube and support as required while you remove/replace the tube. Mav might be the one to ask, having done it in an Italian hotel car park in the shadow of some nice mountains. Nicest place I've welded on up too 😬 or rather Bri When I did it a couple of months ago I found it hard enough to get the tube out with my list removed. It might be possible without, but far easier as you need to release the ears anyway to just pull the shafts right out. Besides, the point was that bolt removal is hardly more hassle than tube replacement.

Steps to replace DDT: 1. Remove wheels 2. Remove brake pipes 3. Remove calipers 4. Remove DD ears, hubs and driveshafts 5. Release dampers from DDT 6. Remove radius arms 7. Slide DDT out of a wheel-arch 8. Slide new DDT in 9. Follow steps 1-6 in reverse 10. Bleed brakes Steps to re-use DDT: 1. Remove wheels 2. Remove brake pipes 3. Remove calipers 4. Remove DD ears, hubs and driveshafts 5. Release dampers from DDT 6. Remove radius arms 7. Slide DDT out of a wheel-arch 7a. Get machine shop to remove sheared bolt 8. Slide DDT back in 9. Follow steps 1-6 in reverse 10. Bleed brakes

Quoting Bob L: My thoughts are the bolt sheared through fatigue, nothing sudden. I guess that's how most of the DD failures happen too, but yours seems to have survived enough fatigue to destroy the bolt! Quoting Bob L: The existing welded sleeve now has a sheered bolt stuck in it and this is unlikely to budge from the threads viewed where others have tried. I'm sure a local machine shop could get it out with no problem if you took them the DD tube. Quoting Bob L: ... but the dampers may well need to be changed to a shorter type. They WILL need to be changed Quoting Bob L: 2. Replace the DDT for an upgraded version from CC which is probably the best overall option There's nothing wrong with your DDT apart from the fact there's a bolt stuck in it - this is probably less expensive than getting new springs and dampers, but still more expensive than getting the old bolt out. Quoting Bob L: 3. Use the alternative mounting position and adjust the existing dampers to the correct ride height (if possible) there only seems about 30mm difference. If it were possible without seriously compromising the handling, CC would have done it instead of making new mount points. What is 30mm as a proportion of the total damper travel? Quoting Bob L: 4. As above but change the dampers to something more suitable if 3 above does not work Ker-ching! - but maybe ok if you need new dampers anyway. Given that you'd have to take the DDT out to replace it anyway, it's probably worth getting it out and having a go at removing the bolt (apply heat/drill/hammer in a torx bit/take to machine shop etc....) before you buy another one. Edited by - charlie_pank on 12 Sep 2012 12:52:39

Obviously at some point there's been undue force on the suspension to cause the failure that you've had. It was enough to shear the bolt and the mounting point stayed intact. This demonstrates that the weakest point in your setup is the bolt, but you want to move to the other (untested) mount points because other people have had failures in the lower mount points. This doesn't make logical sense! Edited by - charlie_pank on 12 Sep 2012 10:54:41

Do all your spinning on airfields

Was going to write a reply, but the boss has spoken

Yes

The ECU just controls the timing and duration of the opening of the injectors for fueling. Provided that the injectors you have are capable of feeding your engine with enough fuel at full chat for your given fuel pressure, and can give small enough squirts at tickover, then all the adjustment is within the ECU. As you have an emerald, you could very quickly see if any of the sensors are giving duff readings by plugging it in to your laptop and running it in live update mode. But if you've had this problem since your conversion then it's probably a map intended for a different flow-rate of injector that is causing it. I think DVA's website tells you which injectors are suitable for what power output. Also, if you can find out the flow-rate of the injectors, you can work out how much fuel is being delivered for each squirt (injector duration info is available by plugging in the ECU map). Then you can look at your estimated power output and the fact that the BSFC (brake specific fuel consumption) of a normally aspirated engine is between 0.3 and 0.5 lb/hp-hr to see if it's in the right ball-park (see here)... or you can wash your hands of it and take it to the RR (along with some spare injectors of different capacity) and let them do this bit for you! Edited by - charlie_pank on 10 Sep 2012 15:42:38

I used a lino stencil. Was pretty nerve wracking doing the cutting. Just remember 2 things: - You can always make the hole bigger if necessary, smaller is more difficult - Measure 3 times from at least 2 different reference points, cut once

Quoting andy couchman: So, of the various engines, it's just the Duratecs and crossflows still being made? Andy I think Yamaha's still making R1s

Power = burning more fuel per second = lower MPG. This means that the best way to maximize fuel economy is to make the engine relatively low power when cruising, but high-power for accelerating. It seems to me that in practice this would feel like driving a twin Turbo 1.4 engine, where you have to 'wring its neck' to find the power. What's wrong with this anyway , provided you've got the gearbox to back it up?

Yamaha Genesis - if you're after high power, low weight and affordability, what's not to like?

George Polley is the UK importer of Yokos, so it's always the best place to go!

It looks like some wires overheated and some didn't at all. I think there are some strong clues about what went wrong. What is the blue wire for? Did ANY fuses blow?

I shouldn't worry about it. If it ever became a problem, you could just put a different engine in.

What might she find?

Does it make any difference if you unplug the TPS?

OK, it's deffo not a vacuum in the fuel tank then. Have a jiggle of the TPS connections and see if you can reproduce/fix the problem...most people who think they have lambda probe problems turn out to have TPS problems instead! If it's not measuring your throttle angle correctly, it'll be telling the ECU to deliver the wrong amount of fuel. Assuming that the default is half way, it'll give you too much fuel up to half throttle (and you won't notice) slightly above half throttle it'll feel great as it leans out then in the top 1/3 of the throttle it'll die through fuel starvation as the revs come up.

As suggested above if it's a blocked fuel tank breather (quite likely given your previous problem) then the car will be fine at first but if you drive until you have the problem, then stop and remove the filler cap, you'll get a big rush of air into the tank. If this happens then it's definitely an obstruction in the breather. If you cannot fix on the spot then try buying a temporary filler cap (halfords or a good petrol station) and make sure it doesn't make a perfect seal.

Fueling issues can also be caused by air leaks and TPS (check loom connections)

Does that make them go faster?

Maybe it's a size thing. ISTR mine were £40 a corner (185/70/13)