charlie_pank

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but from your described symptoms, none of the things you're planning to replace will fix it. The fact that you can pump the pedal to temporarily avoid the problem, yet there are no leaks points to fluid getting past the master cylinder seal. You may be able to fix this with a new seal, but in my experience it was the cylinder bore that was scored and only a new cylinder would fix it. I can't think of any other problem that would match ALL of the symptoms you describe, if it were a bent component or some spacers required, pumping the pedal wouldn't solve it.

If what you say is right then the thermostat is opening and closing regularly which shouldn't happen. I'd take the stat out and check its operation then put it back and refill the system, using the bleeding method I recommended to get the air out from around the stat. Do check the radiator bleed as well, as it takes 30 seconds to do and might solve your problem...

If the crane is on wheels, why do you need to be able to roll the chassis during engine removal/replacement?

If the temp gauge says hot but the fan doesn't come on, then the fan's thermoswitch in the top of the rad is either not sitting in water (when cold, loosen expansion cap, then loosen rad bleed screw - does air escape before coolant?), or the thermostat isn't warming up because it's in an air bubble (when cold, remove expansion cap then loosen jubilee clips on thermostat housing then manipulate joints until no mote air escapes)

:I jack up the front and slide ramps under each of the front wheels (one pointing forwards, one pointing backwards - so it can't roll off), then lower the car down onto the ramps. Gives ample room for the crane. I can actually just get the crane legs under the body with the car at normal height, so I use the crane and a couple of bits of climbing rope to do the 'jacking' too.

Quoting bspeed: Options are 1 new bottom end for engine 2 repair /replace parts 3 complete new engine 4 secondhand engine Any advice as which way to go 1,2 and 3 likely to be about the same price, 3 most expensive but waiting other prices for replacement engine. All are painful ☹️ I'd go for the secondhand engine provided that you can be sure of its history. Probably the cheapest option and easiest to fit, also, you'll end up with a lot of spares which might be useful in the future.

Fit new tank, carefully refill system with coolant purging all air bubbles, then run it for a bit. Get a head gasket coolant tester from halfrauds and follow the instructions.

wot he sed.

My breather feeds into catch tank. When refilling I simply add the volume I took out of the diff plus what is in the catch tank. I would err on the side of too much, any excess will get blown out of the breather

What about feeding the vacuum pump's tube down the breather?

I would have thought this problem has already been solved by someone else with the same TBs. How is the TPS secured?

It's all relative to what you're used to. If you can't get on with it, move the pivot point.

Move the pedal pivot point.

Why not try it yourself? here

You only need to make a temporary modification to the wall of the building at the back of the picture and you could stick the car in there!

I'm really happy with the ST500 - can give oil temp, water temp, revs & speed, 0-60 times, lap times, shift-lights etc... all in a single standard-sized circular unit.

Quoting Myles: Could I feed the light switch direct from the cut-off switch through a fuse in an external fusebox (I bought this to replace in line fuse holders for the accessory socket and the intercom)? I would have thought so, but... ...have you considered the scenario where you are driving along at night and have cause to kill the FIA feed before you can stop the car? Unlikely, I know, but it might be preferable to reduce the lifetime of the main lightswitch rather than pretending you were the Jap team from Canonball Run... What's the point in the an electrical isolation switch that doesn't isolate all the electrics? I could just as easily say the same about the indicators, or the hazards, or the windscreen wipers etc...

STM did it for me in 2009

Sounds like you want to work on your car, but nothing needs doing - 'listless upgradeitis'?

When I put in the R1, I got the chassis modded by Stuart Taylor Motorsport, that's also who did Clive's original install.

'Dashboard fuel switch', that sounds pretty easy to test...

When you say 'wouldn't start again', would it turn over?

It needs: spark air fuel air and fuel in the right proportions, spark at the right time. Which is it not getting? From your writings above I'm sure you know how to check the spark, if you want to check the fuel/air remove the air filter and spray in some easistart while turning it over - does it fire into life? If yes you've either got too much air (perhaps a leak - you did just remove the carbs IIRC) or not enough fuel - are the float bowls filling ok? C

Peter, I found that with the diff in there, there wasn't enough room to rotate the DD tube because of the big triangle shape that the A-frame bolts to - maybe you have more clearance than me between diff and DD tube? Which is why I took the caliper off the ear and then pulled the driveshaft and ear right out of the car and put to one side. Also, I found that I didn't need to remove the dampers completely, but could just leave them hanging. With your method and the standard copper lines all the way to the calipers, you need to be VERY careful as when the 'ends of the drive shafts ... move out and drop', the hub, driveshaft, caliper and de-dion ear is hanging on that copper brake tube! I fitted flexi-lines from the T-piece to the caliper a while ago, so I didn't need to disconnect the brake lines to take the calipers off - it's only 2 bolts on each caliper after all, and once that's done there's nothing else to undo before pulling the whole hub and shaft out of the diff and out of your working area. The diff oil level should be such that it doesn't come out through the driveshaft hole when you pull out the shaft.